On my second day of biking I left Ramunia beach, not quite as early as I had wanted, but I left and headed North. I coasted along a quiet back road beside the coast, with the occasional dead palm frond the only obstruction. I was planning to head to Desaru another twenty km's up the coast. However somewhere along the line I think I must of missed the turn off. I had cycled for about ten kilometres before my first signpost, at least it was the right one though. It said nine kilometres to Desaru. So I cycled on and on the nine kilometres had come and gone but there was a sign up a head. It pointed to Belungkor, this was going to be my original starting point so it completely confused me, I only knew that I definitely didn't want to go there so I continued on my current road. Eventually I came to a roundabout which had a turn off looping back about 4 kilometres to Desaru. Desaru seems to be a string of beach resorts, most of them quite pricey, I had expected a town. Maybe there is a town back there somewhere but I gave up and decided to head onto a fishing village five kilometres further on. I got to Tanjong Balau and asked a local about rooms, but he just shook his head, I was quite sure it he was saying no or just didn't understand my English and one-word Malay!
I soon found a hotel though a bit pricey I checked out the chalets which had also had a dorm but it was full. It seemed they had a group booking. So back to the hotel as least somewhere to stay and get some food. But first I though I would check out the fishing museum here, but Friday in Malaysia is like a Sunday in the U.K so it was closed, oh well back to the food.
The food at the restaurant was excellent and I wolfed it down. I had a salad and then some tasty fish (well I was in a fishing village) in a bright green sauce. Yummy!
Back at the shore there was a long jeti, which I walked down and took a photo of the small boats bobbing around and erm some rocks.
I had done more than double my estimated twenty kilometres that day, but I was settling into the riding with luggage up and down the small hills that seems to the geography of this area at least.
The next day I set off up along the coast and got to my destination as marked on the map, Mahktu Beach, didn't seem to be much there so I continued on upto the next village, but I couldn't find anywhere to stay. It was either head back down or... I spotted a bus driving past with the destination of Kota Tinggi which was going to be my next stop. I did a quick 180degree turn and chased after it, it had stopped at the local jetty but the driver had left. I wondered whether they would take my bike or not, I asked a couple of passer-bys who looked doubtfull. The driver turned up and just waved me and my bike on board. Like India you are subjected to the drivers taste in music, this time some Malaysian Rock! Strange, but better than Hindi Pop.
I got off the bus and spotted a hotel sign and they helped me & my bike up to my room, no problems, and not long before the rain hit Kota Tinggi either! Well except for my next move, the next stop on the map was a long long 90km away. There didn't seem to be anywhere else to stop in between. After a days rest, I decided I would go for it anyway and got underway at 07.30. After a long tiring ride with more and more frequent rest I eventually made it to Mersing, yah! It was good to make it into the town and had a renewed spurt of energy, I found a guesthouse that had been recommended and then went for a nosy around this small town (less than 50,000 people) I would sleep well that night. The next day I jumped on a speedboat to zoom across the water to the island of Tioman. This was the setting of the mystical Bali Hai in South Pacific (that's for my older readers, you know who you are!)
White sands, blue seas and very cheap rooms make for an enjoyable stay! So I'll maybe try and go snorkelling, they have life jackets for hire :) However Internet is expensive so signing off!
Thursday, April 21, 2005
Off to Malaysia
Somewhere back in India the idea of cycling had entered my head, I had talked to George in Honey Valley about cycling and he had told me I could do a ten day circle in Thailand, this sounded interesting. Somewhere along the line this idea got stuck in my head and then I stumbled across www.mrpumpy.net. I immediately had a read about cycling up the east coast of Malaysia, now this sounded more like it! After my final hellish train journey in India the idea was firmly lodged in the brain, so when I reached Singapore and stumbled across a bike-shop, I had a keen look around. I had a chat with the shop owner who had actually done the same trip I was thinking about, so recommended a hybrid (kinda of a cross between a racer and mountain bike, fairly skinny tyres no suspension, but solid enough not to buckle on a few potholes hopefully) I thought about it for a few days and finally caved in. Later that night I went out for a meal and it turned out that one guy owns a custom made Cannondale, another had done all sorts of touring, another couple cycled the length of Britain on a tandem, and here was I with the grand plan of cycling up the coast of Malaysia knowing erm... not much about bikes except the wheels on the bike go round and round.
After nearly two false starts I was finally on my way. The first attempt failed in an unglorious manner. I had footered about too much with strapping the bags on the bikes and adjusting then re-adjusting, also I quickly checked the footy scores that morning and ended up reading about Rangers getting beat at home by Dundee Utd, pffft. I turned up about 15 minutes before the ferry was due to depart, only to be informed I should of turned up 1 hour before departures to clear immigrations. Oh well there is always tomorrow. Tomorrow however ended up a non-starter as my watch alarm failed to go off. It has been a bit flaky since part of the face fell off whilst cycling in Singapore, still I like this watch(when it works properly though) and it glows in the dark!
After a quick perusal of the ferry timetables and my maps I quickly changed plan and saw that I could still catch a 12:00 ferry, although to a different port than I had earlier attended, so flexible in mind if not in body I cycled down to the ferry terminal, which incidentally was 5km closer to the hostel.
After passing through immigrations safely (I had suddenly recalled saying I was staying for 14days in Singapore I had stayed longer). I later looked and saw I had been issued with a 30day visa.
I went onboard the craft that would be taking me to Malaysia, an enclosed ferry. It swayed and bounced in the swell at the jetty. I tried to ignore it and watch the television, even though I had no idea what was being said. I'm not sure if watching TV is recommended for seasickness but it took my mind off the rocking.
After passing through customs at the other side where they gave me a 3 month visa, I was officialy underway! By the time I had got my bike and stuff together the other 3 passengers had already cleared customs, must be one of the quickest immigration departments in the world! As this ferry is primarily used to shuttle customers to the Sebana Cove resort from Singapore, I had to negiotate my way out of the resort. I had my first decision to make, left or right, left or right. Right! Wrong. I asked a security guard where the road went and he said somewhere that was familiar from looking at the maps, I went a few metres and then decided to actually check the map, good job it was familiar but in the wrong direction, after a quick 180 degree turn the watchman waved goodbye and I was off in the right direction. I came to a roundabout, with no signs, but not to worry on road was blocked off, another only went 10meters leaving the path through the golf course. This road seemed to be only used by golf carts and the occasional curious monkey watching me. I was soon to learn that peoples percpetions do not alll match, a popular cycling website had said that there were no hills, however I had stumbled across a few others who had disagreed. They were right, I came to my first hill, a sign said it was 8.2 degrees it felt more like 45 degrees after practising in Singapore were there is approximately one small hill (Canning Hill was the only one I came across).
I puffed my way to the top and got at least to whizz down the other side for a bit, after a few more km's I came to a sign showing I was at least going in the right directions, no more mishaps for the rest of the ride. I found a chalet, got a small discount and relaxed. My first day biking was over. It did seem like I was the only person staying at the resort though, still nice place to sit and watch the world go by! A short walk away I got some Malay food, nearly choking on the peppers and guzzling my orange juice. I went back to the chalet and had a good kip, although I had only gone a touch over twenty km's I was exhausted, too much nervous excitement for one day, but I came through it okay.
After nearly two false starts I was finally on my way. The first attempt failed in an unglorious manner. I had footered about too much with strapping the bags on the bikes and adjusting then re-adjusting, also I quickly checked the footy scores that morning and ended up reading about Rangers getting beat at home by Dundee Utd, pffft. I turned up about 15 minutes before the ferry was due to depart, only to be informed I should of turned up 1 hour before departures to clear immigrations. Oh well there is always tomorrow. Tomorrow however ended up a non-starter as my watch alarm failed to go off. It has been a bit flaky since part of the face fell off whilst cycling in Singapore, still I like this watch(when it works properly though) and it glows in the dark!
After a quick perusal of the ferry timetables and my maps I quickly changed plan and saw that I could still catch a 12:00 ferry, although to a different port than I had earlier attended, so flexible in mind if not in body I cycled down to the ferry terminal, which incidentally was 5km closer to the hostel.
After passing through immigrations safely (I had suddenly recalled saying I was staying for 14days in Singapore I had stayed longer). I later looked and saw I had been issued with a 30day visa.
I went onboard the craft that would be taking me to Malaysia, an enclosed ferry. It swayed and bounced in the swell at the jetty. I tried to ignore it and watch the television, even though I had no idea what was being said. I'm not sure if watching TV is recommended for seasickness but it took my mind off the rocking.
After passing through customs at the other side where they gave me a 3 month visa, I was officialy underway! By the time I had got my bike and stuff together the other 3 passengers had already cleared customs, must be one of the quickest immigration departments in the world! As this ferry is primarily used to shuttle customers to the Sebana Cove resort from Singapore, I had to negiotate my way out of the resort. I had my first decision to make, left or right, left or right. Right! Wrong. I asked a security guard where the road went and he said somewhere that was familiar from looking at the maps, I went a few metres and then decided to actually check the map, good job it was familiar but in the wrong direction, after a quick 180 degree turn the watchman waved goodbye and I was off in the right direction. I came to a roundabout, with no signs, but not to worry on road was blocked off, another only went 10meters leaving the path through the golf course. This road seemed to be only used by golf carts and the occasional curious monkey watching me. I was soon to learn that peoples percpetions do not alll match, a popular cycling website had said that there were no hills, however I had stumbled across a few others who had disagreed. They were right, I came to my first hill, a sign said it was 8.2 degrees it felt more like 45 degrees after practising in Singapore were there is approximately one small hill (Canning Hill was the only one I came across).
I puffed my way to the top and got at least to whizz down the other side for a bit, after a few more km's I came to a sign showing I was at least going in the right directions, no more mishaps for the rest of the ride. I found a chalet, got a small discount and relaxed. My first day biking was over. It did seem like I was the only person staying at the resort though, still nice place to sit and watch the world go by! A short walk away I got some Malay food, nearly choking on the peppers and guzzling my orange juice. I went back to the chalet and had a good kip, although I had only gone a touch over twenty km's I was exhausted, too much nervous excitement for one day, but I came through it okay.
Monday, April 11, 2005
Singapore
I arrived in Singapore and what a change! The bus to the hostel was air-conditioned, a shock after India where there wasn't any glass in the windows. Also they have tv's on the bus, just in case you thought you could escape American Idol.
I spent the first few days just wandering around the city, getting lost in the massive shopping malls and amongst the tall buildings. It's nice to be able to have a drink with ice and not worry about whether you are going to get sick. Also just being able to drink tapwater again is great!
I headed down to a quay, after all Singapore is the second busiest port in the world, although in the centre, it is more tourist boats and colourfuly painted buildings
A large fountain squirts water back into the sea. Looks like some mythical half lion half fish? I walked past a temple which had been recently refurbished so I entered for a quick nosy. Gilded ceilings, lions with red necklaces, and bizarre statues with stange expression. Excellent!
I signed up for a one day course doing rock-climbing, I'd seen it on TV in India and wanted to give it a go, and Singapore has an indoor climbing wall (www.climbadventure.com). I jumped on the MRT (their train system) passing a curiously shaped mall and then the train zoomed off into the distance. The train stations sometime have signs like this, yep the durian fruit is seriously smelly.
After the morning tutorial about ropes & equipment we got let loose on the wall. I managed to clamber to the top of a slightly back-slanted wall on my very first go. Mostly a combination of fear & adrenaline, I think, for the rest of the day I never got to the top again! Once at the top, I realised that I wasn't sure how to come back down, but you just lean back and bounce down like abseiling. Also they showed us some bouldering where you have no ropes, but crash mats, you go sideaways along the wall instead of up. It requires a lot of finger strength and by this time, I was a bit weary so I didn't do very good at all. However it was interesting to watch the experts swing along the wall. Definitely some skill involved with the way they move their centre of gravity and keep their arms straight to minimise strain. It was fun to do!
Another day I popped into the science centre, they had quite a lot of optical illusion which was interesting. Also a van-de-graff generator for zapping people! I picked up a pair of sunglasses around the train station for $4, big spender!
I went to the Singapore Zoo, which was excellent. Most animals are contained in artifical islands rather than cages. I saw loads of animals! Later on I went to the night safari, where a electric bus trundles along through the night with commentary, pointing out all the animals, as you move through simulated geographical regions. Half-way through I jumped off for a small walk through some other sites, including a room with bats, fluttering about. Then back on the bus for the second half of the trip. After that into the auditorium for a animal show. This included an owl silently fly through the air above the crowd, a high-jumping cat, and wee speedy things running about (I don't think I'd make a good zoologist) They had left a toolbox besides one of the seats in the crowd and, of course, there was a giant snake in it, which a guy flung over his shoulders and ran through the crowd causing havoc!
I took lots of photos, here they are:
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Night Safari:
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Downtown at Raffles Quay an
advert was being made while I ate a sandwich, feeling dwarfed by the buildings one of which had some strange balls on sticks beside a pool, maybe it's art? I went through the shopping mall, and won a wallet for making a Timberland design from straws Occasionaly you could still see the traditional architecture the most obvious example being the spiral staircases at the back. I soon had to duck into a coffee shop as the rain started really pelting it down.
Once the rain went off I continued down past some colourful shopfronts and odd masks.
Later I popped into a museum which had a model of singapore, hence the ariel photo. Going to Chinatown I strolled past my HQ (McLennan Centre) across a bridge where a chinese pagoda resided. The lights were slowly coming on across the city.
Also I went on a food walk with the hostel owner, Tony, where we sampled various local foods, including pork dumplings, laksa and some other bits and pieces I forget but a tasty evening. More info here. I saw giant bananas as well!
Also we popped into a Hindu temple, apparently when land was cleared a small elephant statue was found and then the temple was built on top of it. A large proportion of the coast around Singapore is from land-reclamation, in fact it is continuing. Also went into one of the local high-rises, this is where the majority of Singaporeans live. At the base there is usually local amenities, such as a food court and shops. Tony showed us the sensors in the lift, where if you pee in the lift the sensors go off, stop the lift and the police are called. Then you have to pick up litter(although generally not much about) for two weeks wearing a bright green costume!
On Saturday night Tony invited me along to a local event which his friend Wee Cheng (www.weecheng.com) had heard about. Wee Cheng has been almost everywhere, and plans to go where he hasn't been! Anyway this 'event' was actually a spirit possesion.
After a bit of dancing and playing of instruments, four young guys/boys entered the arena riding wooden horses, after inhaling some smoke they all went crazy and got possessed, kinda hard to describe! Things got weirder as they ate bites of glass from a vase and danced over broken glass barefoot. Later the 'ringmaster' hit them with a bullwhip but they seemed impervious to the pain. Eventually they were brought back to reality, but the spirit jumped across to some other people and more chaos ensued. Definitely a strange evening, one part theatre, one part entertainment to two parts weirdness.
Photos here:
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
The next day I had another stroll through the city, past more tall buildings, some cats, a big spoon and egg race with ankle grabbing?? and finally Fatman and Robin
I spent the first few days just wandering around the city, getting lost in the massive shopping malls and amongst the tall buildings. It's nice to be able to have a drink with ice and not worry about whether you are going to get sick. Also just being able to drink tapwater again is great!
I headed down to a quay, after all Singapore is the second busiest port in the world, although in the centre, it is more tourist boats and colourfuly painted buildings
A large fountain squirts water back into the sea. Looks like some mythical half lion half fish? I walked past a temple which had been recently refurbished so I entered for a quick nosy. Gilded ceilings, lions with red necklaces, and bizarre statues with stange expression. Excellent!
I signed up for a one day course doing rock-climbing, I'd seen it on TV in India and wanted to give it a go, and Singapore has an indoor climbing wall (www.climbadventure.com). I jumped on the MRT (their train system) passing a curiously shaped mall and then the train zoomed off into the distance. The train stations sometime have signs like this, yep the durian fruit is seriously smelly.
After the morning tutorial about ropes & equipment we got let loose on the wall. I managed to clamber to the top of a slightly back-slanted wall on my very first go. Mostly a combination of fear & adrenaline, I think, for the rest of the day I never got to the top again! Once at the top, I realised that I wasn't sure how to come back down, but you just lean back and bounce down like abseiling. Also they showed us some bouldering where you have no ropes, but crash mats, you go sideaways along the wall instead of up. It requires a lot of finger strength and by this time, I was a bit weary so I didn't do very good at all. However it was interesting to watch the experts swing along the wall. Definitely some skill involved with the way they move their centre of gravity and keep their arms straight to minimise strain. It was fun to do!
Another day I popped into the science centre, they had quite a lot of optical illusion which was interesting. Also a van-de-graff generator for zapping people! I picked up a pair of sunglasses around the train station for $4, big spender!
I went to the Singapore Zoo, which was excellent. Most animals are contained in artifical islands rather than cages. I saw loads of animals! Later on I went to the night safari, where a electric bus trundles along through the night with commentary, pointing out all the animals, as you move through simulated geographical regions. Half-way through I jumped off for a small walk through some other sites, including a room with bats, fluttering about. Then back on the bus for the second half of the trip. After that into the auditorium for a animal show. This included an owl silently fly through the air above the crowd, a high-jumping cat, and wee speedy things running about (I don't think I'd make a good zoologist) They had left a toolbox besides one of the seats in the crowd and, of course, there was a giant snake in it, which a guy flung over his shoulders and ran through the crowd causing havoc!
I took lots of photos, here they are:
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
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84
85
86
87
88
89
90
91
92
93
94
Night Safari:
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
Downtown at Raffles Quay an
advert was being made while I ate a sandwich, feeling dwarfed by the buildings one of which had some strange balls on sticks beside a pool, maybe it's art? I went through the shopping mall, and won a wallet for making a Timberland design from straws Occasionaly you could still see the traditional architecture the most obvious example being the spiral staircases at the back. I soon had to duck into a coffee shop as the rain started really pelting it down.
Once the rain went off I continued down past some colourful shopfronts and odd masks.
Later I popped into a museum which had a model of singapore, hence the ariel photo. Going to Chinatown I strolled past my HQ (McLennan Centre) across a bridge where a chinese pagoda resided. The lights were slowly coming on across the city.
Also I went on a food walk with the hostel owner, Tony, where we sampled various local foods, including pork dumplings, laksa and some other bits and pieces I forget but a tasty evening. More info here. I saw giant bananas as well!
Also we popped into a Hindu temple, apparently when land was cleared a small elephant statue was found and then the temple was built on top of it. A large proportion of the coast around Singapore is from land-reclamation, in fact it is continuing. Also went into one of the local high-rises, this is where the majority of Singaporeans live. At the base there is usually local amenities, such as a food court and shops. Tony showed us the sensors in the lift, where if you pee in the lift the sensors go off, stop the lift and the police are called. Then you have to pick up litter(although generally not much about) for two weeks wearing a bright green costume!
On Saturday night Tony invited me along to a local event which his friend Wee Cheng (www.weecheng.com) had heard about. Wee Cheng has been almost everywhere, and plans to go where he hasn't been! Anyway this 'event' was actually a spirit possesion.
After a bit of dancing and playing of instruments, four young guys/boys entered the arena riding wooden horses, after inhaling some smoke they all went crazy and got possessed, kinda hard to describe! Things got weirder as they ate bites of glass from a vase and danced over broken glass barefoot. Later the 'ringmaster' hit them with a bullwhip but they seemed impervious to the pain. Eventually they were brought back to reality, but the spirit jumped across to some other people and more chaos ensued. Definitely a strange evening, one part theatre, one part entertainment to two parts weirdness.
Photos here:
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
The next day I had another stroll through the city, past more tall buildings, some cats, a big spoon and egg race with ankle grabbing?? and finally Fatman and Robin
Saturday, April 02, 2005
All out for 143!
Well my five months in India have come to an end, overall I've really enjoyed it and looking back I've managed quite a lot. I've been to the Himalayas, watched the sun sink into the Arabian sea, bounced along the desert on a camel, hiked in the Coorg forest, cycled through the ruins of Hampi, seen the Golden Temple, Taj Mahal and the Sri Meenakshi temple in Madurai, wandered through markets, go-karted in Goa and met some good people besides a lot more.
While the photos give an impression of India, they do so omiting the smells of the spice gardens, the sounds of the minarets, the touch of the white sands underfoot and the tastes of the spicy Indian cuisine.
As Benjamin Disraeli said about travel - "I've seen more than I remember and I'll remember more than I've seen"
However it does feel like time for a change and so I'm moving on to Singapore.
Here's the final list of places I visited:
Delhi, Amritsar, Dalhousie, McLeod Ganj, Chandigarh, Agra, Jaipur, Bikaner, Jodhpur, Udaipur, Ahmedabad, Mumbai, Panaji, Anjuna, Palolem, Colva, Mangalore, Madikeri, Kakkabe, Mysore, Ooty, Conoor, Kochi, Kollam, Alappuzha, Kottayam, Periyar, Munnar, Madurai, Trichy, Pondicherry, Mamallapuram, Bangalore, Hampi
and Chennai
I guestimate I've travelled around 7000km in my time here.
And just for good measure, here's the books I read while doing it:
Adventures of Huckleberry Finn by Mark Twain.
Wizard of Oz
Alice in Wonderland
The Man Who Was Thursday by J.K. Chesterton.
White Fang by Jack London.
The Sea Wolf by Jack London.
Widow for One Year by John Irving.
Fury by Salman Rushdie.
The Ground Beneath Her Feet by Salman Rushdie.
Da Vinci Code by Dan Brown.
Deception Point by Dan Brown.
Zeke & Ned by Larry McMurty & Diana Ossana.
The Autumn of the Patriarch by Gabriel Garcia Marquez.
Yellow Dog by Martin Amis.
The Rhineman Exchange by Robert Ludlum.
The Osterman Weekend by Robert Ludlum.
Son of the Circus by John Irving.
Every Second Counts by Lance Armstrong.
Timbuktu by Paul Auster.
Papillion by Henri Charriere.
The Game by Jack London.
The Alchemist by Paulo Coelho.
Zen and The Art of Motorcycle Maintenance by Robert M. Prisig.
While the photos give an impression of India, they do so omiting the smells of the spice gardens, the sounds of the minarets, the touch of the white sands underfoot and the tastes of the spicy Indian cuisine.
As Benjamin Disraeli said about travel - "I've seen more than I remember and I'll remember more than I've seen"
However it does feel like time for a change and so I'm moving on to Singapore.
Here's the final list of places I visited:
Delhi, Amritsar, Dalhousie, McLeod Ganj, Chandigarh, Agra, Jaipur, Bikaner, Jodhpur, Udaipur, Ahmedabad, Mumbai, Panaji, Anjuna, Palolem, Colva, Mangalore, Madikeri, Kakkabe, Mysore, Ooty, Conoor, Kochi, Kollam, Alappuzha, Kottayam, Periyar, Munnar, Madurai, Trichy, Pondicherry, Mamallapuram, Bangalore, Hampi
and Chennai
I guestimate I've travelled around 7000km in my time here.
And just for good measure, here's the books I read while doing it:
Adventures of Huckleberry Finn by Mark Twain.
Wizard of Oz
Alice in Wonderland
The Man Who Was Thursday by J.K. Chesterton.
White Fang by Jack London.
The Sea Wolf by Jack London.
Widow for One Year by John Irving.
Fury by Salman Rushdie.
The Ground Beneath Her Feet by Salman Rushdie.
Da Vinci Code by Dan Brown.
Deception Point by Dan Brown.
Zeke & Ned by Larry McMurty & Diana Ossana.
The Autumn of the Patriarch by Gabriel Garcia Marquez.
Yellow Dog by Martin Amis.
The Rhineman Exchange by Robert Ludlum.
The Osterman Weekend by Robert Ludlum.
Son of the Circus by John Irving.
Every Second Counts by Lance Armstrong.
Timbuktu by Paul Auster.
Papillion by Henri Charriere.
The Game by Jack London.
The Alchemist by Paulo Coelho.
Zen and The Art of Motorcycle Maintenance by Robert M. Prisig.
Signs of India
Here is some of the signs I've seen in India:
Beware of unattended luggage, briefcase without owners or even an innocent looking toy or transistor. If you see any of these please contact the police immediately. Your prompt action could help save hundreds of lives.
Rohar Police, a friend in need.
Badly built bridge drive carefully.
Speed thrills, but kills.
Speedest English speaking course!
Dont throw rubbish God will be angry.
From January to December, there is safety to remember.
Left is right.
Beware of unattended luggage, briefcase without owners or even an innocent looking toy or transistor. If you see any of these please contact the police immediately. Your prompt action could help save hundreds of lives.
Rohar Police, a friend in need.
Badly built bridge drive carefully.
Speed thrills, but kills.
Speedest English speaking course!
Dont throw rubbish God will be angry.
From January to December, there is safety to remember.
Left is right.
Chennai
I seemed stuck on the never ending train journey from hell. I was tired after not much sleep the night before on the train and having to get up at 6am. After an hour my back was sore, the back of the seats seemed too far away, so you had to slump back or sit straight up with nothing to lean against.
It was a busy train, from staff shouting out chai coffee coffee chai, people selling cold drinks dosas and samosas, young boys crawling along dusting the carriageway for money, beggars with withered, twisted, atrophied limbs shoved in your face, young girls with younger babies, hirijas clapping demanding money, a blind man with one hand shuffling along the carriageway selling stuff announcing his life story in Tamil and of course the obligatory screaming kid which appears wherever you want peace & quiet. Constant glancing at the watch and no time has passed...
Eventually however I did arrive in Chennai and proceeded out the station blankly ignoring at least five autorickshaw drivers, sometimes you get fed up just saying NO all the time.
I had a Punjabi Thali consisting of palak paneer (cottage cheese & spinach), chana masala (spiced chickpeas), dal fry, another wet dish with cauliflower, onion, pickle, curd, veg pulao (rice with veg), kulcha (indian flatbread), papad and sweet (sponge in sugar sryup) washed down with fresh grape juice. It cost 60rps (75p).
It was a busy train, from staff shouting out chai coffee coffee chai, people selling cold drinks dosas and samosas, young boys crawling along dusting the carriageway for money, beggars with withered, twisted, atrophied limbs shoved in your face, young girls with younger babies, hirijas clapping demanding money, a blind man with one hand shuffling along the carriageway selling stuff announcing his life story in Tamil and of course the obligatory screaming kid which appears wherever you want peace & quiet. Constant glancing at the watch and no time has passed...
Eventually however I did arrive in Chennai and proceeded out the station blankly ignoring at least five autorickshaw drivers, sometimes you get fed up just saying NO all the time.
I had a Punjabi Thali consisting of palak paneer (cottage cheese & spinach), chana masala (spiced chickpeas), dal fry, another wet dish with cauliflower, onion, pickle, curd, veg pulao (rice with veg), kulcha (indian flatbread), papad and sweet (sponge in sugar sryup) washed down with fresh grape juice. It cost 60rps (75p).
Hampi
I got to Hampi and found a cheap room close to the Hampi Bizzare. Later I realised, I was next door to somebody who spent half the day praying/chanting.
I hired a bike to have a look around as Hampi is quite spread out. It is however not short of sights, a quick look at a map shows over 80 places of interest.
I stopped off at an old temple which was underground, but now excavated. Had a quick look around. It's nice and atmospheric when you are the only one there. Then I jumped back on the bike and cycled another five minutes coming to a mosque, I headed up the stairs and had a view where you can see more ruins and walls in the distance. Stone carvings everywhere.
Onto the Royal Centre, where the Lotus Mahal and Elephant stables reside. Next onto the 16th century Vittala temple, a World Heritage listed sight, complete with an impressive carved stone chariot.
Unforutnately on the way to the Vittala temple I got a puncture. So I had to cycle back the 10km on the rim, juddering along the long bumpy streets, being jolted every time the tyre revolved on the air jack. Oh yes, it was also 3 o'clock in the sun, the very hot sun, in fact according to the paper it was 39.5C, a new record for March!
The next day I headed up to the Hanuman temple, crossing the river in a small oracle. There is great views over the entire Hampi landscape, even from halfway up. The landscape in Hampi is very unusual not having normal hills or mountains. All the moutains are made from piles of rocks balanced up on top of each other, giving a strange look to the area.
I hired a bike to have a look around as Hampi is quite spread out. It is however not short of sights, a quick look at a map shows over 80 places of interest.
I stopped off at an old temple which was underground, but now excavated. Had a quick look around. It's nice and atmospheric when you are the only one there. Then I jumped back on the bike and cycled another five minutes coming to a mosque, I headed up the stairs and had a view where you can see more ruins and walls in the distance. Stone carvings everywhere.
Onto the Royal Centre, where the Lotus Mahal and Elephant stables reside. Next onto the 16th century Vittala temple, a World Heritage listed sight, complete with an impressive carved stone chariot.
Unforutnately on the way to the Vittala temple I got a puncture. So I had to cycle back the 10km on the rim, juddering along the long bumpy streets, being jolted every time the tyre revolved on the air jack. Oh yes, it was also 3 o'clock in the sun, the very hot sun, in fact according to the paper it was 39.5C, a new record for March!
The next day I headed up to the Hanuman temple, crossing the river in a small oracle. There is great views over the entire Hampi landscape, even from halfway up. The landscape in Hampi is very unusual not having normal hills or mountains. All the moutains are made from piles of rocks balanced up on top of each other, giving a strange look to the area.
Bangalore
The MG Road area of Bangalore is more modern than most areas in India, this means it is now full of shopping malls, fast food, cafes and bars. Not sure everybody will agree it's progress!
Also one of the fews places where you hear snippets of Indians conversing in English.
I noticed an English cinema so I wandered in and watched Constantine. Not particularly good, but maybe not as bad as the guy behind me thought, he snored through most of the movie.
Indian seem to have the envious abilty to fall asleep anywhere. If you take a walk around cities you'll usually see people lying on bits of newpaper on the ground. Presumably to keep them clean, rather than for padding. And of course the autorickshaws drivers squeezed into the back of their machines, but I suspect that's the same for taxi drivers the world over!
I had a nosy into a pub for a drink as the outside intrigued me. It was a theme bar called NASA. Inside all the staff wear outfits like airplane pilots. A small modern bar, with booth and quotes about space exploration that I can't remember, although I do remember the sign below the DJ booth, No Dancing!
When it was time to leave, I had a few hours to wait for the train, so I jumped into the cinema to watch a film, it's hard to miss the large adverts! This time a Hinda or Kannada film, who knows? I followed the start but got lost later on too much dialogue not enough action.
It started with a boy who won some sort of prize, but maybe only second. Then he had a fight with his dad or uncle, where he flings a bowl at his head, covering him in blood and then he runaways. He is shown curled up from hunger and asks a stall owner for food who laughs at him because he had no money. Cuts to a drunken man surrounded by beer bottles, who is getting hounded by bad guys for money. The boy intervenes just before they get the drunk guy and smashes a bottle over their head. He takes the wad of money, peals off just one note and hands it back. Back to the stall, he is shown biting in to a chicken leg.
Cut to the present day and he is grown up, a moody fighting machine. Later he gets in another fight where a group of guys try and beat him up. Cue him dropping his cigarette, beating up four guys and cut back to the cigarette hitting the ground, that was quick! A few more fights, but too much talking to follow well.
Oh well, off to catch the train to Hampi.
Also one of the fews places where you hear snippets of Indians conversing in English.
I noticed an English cinema so I wandered in and watched Constantine. Not particularly good, but maybe not as bad as the guy behind me thought, he snored through most of the movie.
Indian seem to have the envious abilty to fall asleep anywhere. If you take a walk around cities you'll usually see people lying on bits of newpaper on the ground. Presumably to keep them clean, rather than for padding. And of course the autorickshaws drivers squeezed into the back of their machines, but I suspect that's the same for taxi drivers the world over!
I had a nosy into a pub for a drink as the outside intrigued me. It was a theme bar called NASA. Inside all the staff wear outfits like airplane pilots. A small modern bar, with booth and quotes about space exploration that I can't remember, although I do remember the sign below the DJ booth, No Dancing!
When it was time to leave, I had a few hours to wait for the train, so I jumped into the cinema to watch a film, it's hard to miss the large adverts! This time a Hinda or Kannada film, who knows? I followed the start but got lost later on too much dialogue not enough action.
It started with a boy who won some sort of prize, but maybe only second. Then he had a fight with his dad or uncle, where he flings a bowl at his head, covering him in blood and then he runaways. He is shown curled up from hunger and asks a stall owner for food who laughs at him because he had no money. Cuts to a drunken man surrounded by beer bottles, who is getting hounded by bad guys for money. The boy intervenes just before they get the drunk guy and smashes a bottle over their head. He takes the wad of money, peals off just one note and hands it back. Back to the stall, he is shown biting in to a chicken leg.
Cut to the present day and he is grown up, a moody fighting machine. Later he gets in another fight where a group of guys try and beat him up. Cue him dropping his cigarette, beating up four guys and cut back to the cigarette hitting the ground, that was quick! A few more fights, but too much talking to follow well.
Oh well, off to catch the train to Hampi.
Pondy & Mama
I stayed in the Government guesthouse, a large rather ramshackle place when I first arrived in Pondicherry, hmm who built these locks??. Pondi, is a former French colony where the police men wear funny red caps. Not sure whether the guy that got on the bus with the huge double-barrelled shotgun was a policeman or not, he didn't have a hat, still I decided to stay out his way.
Pondicherry is roughly split into the French town at the seafront and the Tamil town behind.
For my first meal I ordered the garcon to bring me the finest coq au vin!
Nothing special actually. In Indian you get exactly what's on the menu, which I forget sometimes so you just get a plate of chicken with no veg or anything, you have to order all side dishes.
At night all the Pondicherriens go for a stroll along the seafront, with the good sign. Passing a statue of Gandi. While strolling along I came across a small musical performance with a couple of drummers and two people playing a long flared flute-like instrument but played straight in front on the musician. Also they had several reeds tied to the mouthpiece which they could swap in and out. It was quite good for a free concert!
Another day I hired a bicycle and set off for Auroville (www.auroville.org). Eventually I got there and had a look around the visitor centre. It seemed to very reverential towards the founder, a strange place. Never found out how they got their hands on the massive diamond which is in the meditation hall, although the hall isn't open to visitors.
After a few days I hopped on the bus for a couple of hours heading north to Mamallapuram. Here there is the Shore Temple situated, yep you guessed it, closed to the sea. A large wall had been erected around the temple to prevent further erosion from the sea.
Also in Mamallapuram there is a monument called the Five Rathas. These are all carved from a single large rock. You can see the rockbed joining them together. Seems a hard way of doing things, but at least you don't have to move the carvings! Still if you want to carve an elephant the hard way...
I nipped up a few steps to a viewpoint across Mamallapurm but not really a great view.
In a restaurant I was given a menu which looked about twenty years old and barely readable, it turned out that this had been caused by the tsunami which swept into the restaurant.
I didn't stay as long as I had planned in Pondicherry or Mamallapuram so I had some extra time in which I could nip over to Hampi and back, a roundtrip of about 1700km!
Pondicherry is roughly split into the French town at the seafront and the Tamil town behind.
For my first meal I ordered the garcon to bring me the finest coq au vin!
Nothing special actually. In Indian you get exactly what's on the menu, which I forget sometimes so you just get a plate of chicken with no veg or anything, you have to order all side dishes.
At night all the Pondicherriens go for a stroll along the seafront, with the good sign. Passing a statue of Gandi. While strolling along I came across a small musical performance with a couple of drummers and two people playing a long flared flute-like instrument but played straight in front on the musician. Also they had several reeds tied to the mouthpiece which they could swap in and out. It was quite good for a free concert!
Another day I hired a bicycle and set off for Auroville (www.auroville.org). Eventually I got there and had a look around the visitor centre. It seemed to very reverential towards the founder, a strange place. Never found out how they got their hands on the massive diamond which is in the meditation hall, although the hall isn't open to visitors.
After a few days I hopped on the bus for a couple of hours heading north to Mamallapuram. Here there is the Shore Temple situated, yep you guessed it, closed to the sea. A large wall had been erected around the temple to prevent further erosion from the sea.
Also in Mamallapuram there is a monument called the Five Rathas. These are all carved from a single large rock. You can see the rockbed joining them together. Seems a hard way of doing things, but at least you don't have to move the carvings! Still if you want to carve an elephant the hard way...
I nipped up a few steps to a viewpoint across Mamallapurm but not really a great view.
In a restaurant I was given a menu which looked about twenty years old and barely readable, it turned out that this had been caused by the tsunami which swept into the restaurant.
I didn't stay as long as I had planned in Pondicherry or Mamallapuram so I had some extra time in which I could nip over to Hampi and back, a roundtrip of about 1700km!
Friday, March 18, 2005
Madurai & Trichy
Had a special thali for dinner, which means a big bundle of rice, something like a chappati (roti) and about eight small dishes of who know's what. You just throw it on your rice and taste. A couple were normal-ish veg stuff, most of the others sauce. When you finish one you get a refill. As much as you can eat for 50p, can't say fairer than that. Also included was a strange pink drink/sauce I wasn't sure, I took a sip but decided to stick to my grape juice, which was brown, mustn't be the right season for grapes.
All this comes complete with a waiter standing a metre away watching you intensely, ready to whip away any empty dishes. Or just stare at the white guy dribbling food down his tshirt?
I walked down to the temples of Madurai, hard to miss as you walk down the street, and made my first major (well knowingly!) faux pas. I have got used to ignoring all the street vendors who wan't to sell you stuff, or clean your shoes etc. However, I guess I shouldn't ignore everybody!
Reading my Lonely Planet it had informed me that the touts were tenacious so when I heard a guy saying "Shoes" I just ignored him, thinking he was wanting to polish my shoes (Why I would polish trainers with white stripes on them is an unexplained mystery). I wandered on and somebody tugged at my bag, I shrugged him off thinking, yep the guide books are right. Again he pulled harder at my bag which contained my camera. I swung around sharply to confront the man, nearly knocking him off balance. He again pointed at my shoes, a second later I realised my mistake, I had walked into the Hindu temple with my shoes on. I muttered my apologies and exited sharply. Woops!
I walked quickly outside and away feeling embrassed. I pondered whether to try and explain. But with no Tamil and probably little English from the guard, I decided against. I had visions of me saying "Yes. I thought you wanted to clean my shoes!" which probably wouldn't of helped matter greatly. I walked round the perimter of the temple and decided to enter at the other side, this time without shoes!
Around the four side of the temple lie, ludicriously ornatetly decorated towers stacked upto 50metres tall.
Depicted on the entrances are a good deal of the 330million or so Hindu gods(Every three people in India have a god each)!
Within the temple features a room the 1000 pillared hall. Indeed I did count around 30 across and the room was squarish so probaby not an exaggeration. In the corner stood the musical pillars, which the attendant happily knocked out a tune with his bit of wood. "Same stone!", he marvelled as the different tones resonated through the pillars. I decided not to mention the fact that they had different girths.
After a couple of days I moved onto Trichy. Trichy also has some large Hindu temples. At first glance, it looks similar to Madurai, but once inside, the scale of the complex is apparent from the rooftops. It's huge! 60 hectares, if that means anything to anybody. I didn't have much time to go round as I said to the autorickshaw driver I would be back soon, and as I had left my shoes with him, I decided I better make it back on time. It seemed complicated to get around as most of the passages were Hindu only. Strangely they don't seem to mind that shops have been setup in the temple, selling the usual junk, which to me seems totally out of place.
I got the driver to drop me off at the shore temple on the way back. After the usual argument about the fare, where I no doubt got ripped off, I ascended the five hundred odd steps to the top of the shore temple. Another hindu temle, so no shoes to climb the stairs, not so bad on the way up, but not used to going down stairs with no shoes. At the top you get a good view across Trichy and in the distance you can spot the Sri Ranganathaswamy temple (is it any wonder the drivers look confused when I ask for the Sri Ranganathingy temple?) Nice sunset from up here.
I tried to wander back to the hotel and got hopelessly lost as usual. Ended up squashed in a throng of people walking up and down a bazaar. They had a few carnival type rides, like a 10m circle of track on which a car goes round! On closer inspection it doesn't even go on the track, but just a rotate round the track via a large metal beam fixed horizontally to spin the car round. Seemed to be mostly guys who you would of thought to be to old on them.
Gave up trying to get back and jumped in an auto who then tried to go back down through the crowds. Lots and lots of horn beeping and shouting as a traffic jam ensued. A few people jumped out their stationary vehicles and pushed parked richshaws out the way to get past. Eventually made it back to the hotel.
All this comes complete with a waiter standing a metre away watching you intensely, ready to whip away any empty dishes. Or just stare at the white guy dribbling food down his tshirt?
I walked down to the temples of Madurai, hard to miss as you walk down the street, and made my first major (well knowingly!) faux pas. I have got used to ignoring all the street vendors who wan't to sell you stuff, or clean your shoes etc. However, I guess I shouldn't ignore everybody!
Reading my Lonely Planet it had informed me that the touts were tenacious so when I heard a guy saying "Shoes" I just ignored him, thinking he was wanting to polish my shoes (Why I would polish trainers with white stripes on them is an unexplained mystery). I wandered on and somebody tugged at my bag, I shrugged him off thinking, yep the guide books are right. Again he pulled harder at my bag which contained my camera. I swung around sharply to confront the man, nearly knocking him off balance. He again pointed at my shoes, a second later I realised my mistake, I had walked into the Hindu temple with my shoes on. I muttered my apologies and exited sharply. Woops!
I walked quickly outside and away feeling embrassed. I pondered whether to try and explain. But with no Tamil and probably little English from the guard, I decided against. I had visions of me saying "Yes. I thought you wanted to clean my shoes!" which probably wouldn't of helped matter greatly. I walked round the perimter of the temple and decided to enter at the other side, this time without shoes!
Around the four side of the temple lie, ludicriously ornatetly decorated towers stacked upto 50metres tall.
Depicted on the entrances are a good deal of the 330million or so Hindu gods(Every three people in India have a god each)!
Within the temple features a room the 1000 pillared hall. Indeed I did count around 30 across and the room was squarish so probaby not an exaggeration. In the corner stood the musical pillars, which the attendant happily knocked out a tune with his bit of wood. "Same stone!", he marvelled as the different tones resonated through the pillars. I decided not to mention the fact that they had different girths.
After a couple of days I moved onto Trichy. Trichy also has some large Hindu temples. At first glance, it looks similar to Madurai, but once inside, the scale of the complex is apparent from the rooftops. It's huge! 60 hectares, if that means anything to anybody. I didn't have much time to go round as I said to the autorickshaw driver I would be back soon, and as I had left my shoes with him, I decided I better make it back on time. It seemed complicated to get around as most of the passages were Hindu only. Strangely they don't seem to mind that shops have been setup in the temple, selling the usual junk, which to me seems totally out of place.
I got the driver to drop me off at the shore temple on the way back. After the usual argument about the fare, where I no doubt got ripped off, I ascended the five hundred odd steps to the top of the shore temple. Another hindu temle, so no shoes to climb the stairs, not so bad on the way up, but not used to going down stairs with no shoes. At the top you get a good view across Trichy and in the distance you can spot the Sri Ranganathaswamy temple (is it any wonder the drivers look confused when I ask for the Sri Ranganathingy temple?) Nice sunset from up here.
I tried to wander back to the hotel and got hopelessly lost as usual. Ended up squashed in a throng of people walking up and down a bazaar. They had a few carnival type rides, like a 10m circle of track on which a car goes round! On closer inspection it doesn't even go on the track, but just a rotate round the track via a large metal beam fixed horizontally to spin the car round. Seemed to be mostly guys who you would of thought to be to old on them.
Gave up trying to get back and jumped in an auto who then tried to go back down through the crowds. Lots and lots of horn beeping and shouting as a traffic jam ensued. A few people jumped out their stationary vehicles and pushed parked richshaws out the way to get past. Eventually made it back to the hotel.
Tuesday, March 08, 2005
Munnar
Looking at past entries, (Kochi, Kollam, Kotayam, Kumily) you make think I went to Munnar just to prove that not everywhere in Kerala begins with a 'K'.
I got to the bus station at 13.30 for the bus to Munnar, turns out it didn't leave till 14.45 and took longer than I thought arrived around 19.15, another day gone!
I had phoned for some accommodation that George from Kottayam had given me, but they were full they seemed to think I should of turned up yesterday. George must of reserved me a room when I said I would of being going to Munnar, although he didn't tell me it was next to this. Still somebody jumped on the bus and approached me asking if I was Holly, nope, somebody else. I shooed him away thinking he was another tout, then he showed me his card for the homestay, aah, he means Colin. So I got off the bus with him and told him I had phoned and they had no rooms. He said "Come, come" I asked again about rooms and he said "No". Hmm strange. Turned out they were full but I could sleep in the living room. Met a guy from Toronto, Norm and a girl for Netherlands, Dieuwke (www.dieuwke.tk) also staying there and went for dinner.
The next day we went for a walk throught the tea plantations. We arrived at a small village where the kids were jumping up and down and shouting. Dieuwke was wearing a sari, which seem to amaze everybody we met. People would stop and speak and the only word we would recognise was sari. We were invited in for some tea, by the school teacher, We asked for a photo of Elizabeth (or Maybol, said Elizabeth was her company name?) and her husband. Her husband got changed, combed his hair, selected his best jacket, decided against it and then went outside for the photo.
Strangely when we left the children decided they no longer liked us and threw stones at us, Watch your back! Maybe because we didn't give them a pen? Or just up to mischeive, who knows?
We wandered on for some more and eventually spotted the road where we walked for a bit more past a temple where five guys were "gi'eing it laldy" on the drums. Some sort of small festival presumably. Passing a typical market stall.
Went back for dinner and had some beef which was like galvanised rubber, the chicken the night before was much tastier!
Next day we were going to go to a waterfall but there is no water (I guess it's relegated to being a cliff), so we went to Echo Point. This basically consisted of a forested lake where with lots of Indians shouting across it.
There was a film crew from Kairla TV station who gave us a lift to the end of the lake, after filming us and the rest of the tourists (Fame at last!) Then a large group of guys on holiday offered us a lift upto Top Station, so twelve of us somehow crammed into a jeep. The driver could talk English fine as his wife worked in Ireland. Some of the rest however appeared to have been drinking a bit and were in high spirits. Instant best friends! They didn't speak much English though.
One gave me a try of his sunglasses. I just said "Thanks very much!" which shut them up for a bit. I think only the rich Indians would have sunglasses. At the very edge of the cliff stood a gate where a man tried to charge people for looking at the view, seemed completely pointless as you could see the view fine from the path. Still anything for a quick buck, eh?
I saw the route that Aaron from the rafting must of hiked, he must be very fit! There goes that idea.
Know I now why the bus takes seven hours to go only about 60km. It's down one mountain and up another taller one!
We declined a lift back down in the jeep opting for the bus. As we crossed a dam the guard, as usual asked name, country and then excitedly showed us the dam gutter. When you shout along the wall you get a small echo. Echos seem to be a big thing in India? He then ushered us down to the bottom of the dam. He most of told another group of Indians my name as on the way back up, people were shouting "Colin! Colin!", "How are you, Colin?". Erm "Fine"
Waiting for the bus at 17.30 it turned up at 16.30 but going the wrong way. The conductor asked us where we were going, replied Munnar. He ushered us on the bus, "Yes, yes Munnar. Please sit." as expected it went off for half an hour in the wrong direction before looping back past where we were. Still had a quick look at a small village, Kovilloor. Seemed to be full of ruind jeep being cannabilised fir spare parts, I didn't want to even think about how they got in such a state. Eventually made it back and went for dinner with another Torontoian, if that's the word. Another veg banana leaf place but quite tasty.
I opted against going to Kodiakanal and decided to go straight to Madurai, so back down to the plains, which means get the suntan lotion on again!
I got to the bus station at 13.30 for the bus to Munnar, turns out it didn't leave till 14.45 and took longer than I thought arrived around 19.15, another day gone!
I had phoned for some accommodation that George from Kottayam had given me, but they were full they seemed to think I should of turned up yesterday. George must of reserved me a room when I said I would of being going to Munnar, although he didn't tell me it was next to this. Still somebody jumped on the bus and approached me asking if I was Holly, nope, somebody else. I shooed him away thinking he was another tout, then he showed me his card for the homestay, aah, he means Colin. So I got off the bus with him and told him I had phoned and they had no rooms. He said "Come, come" I asked again about rooms and he said "No". Hmm strange. Turned out they were full but I could sleep in the living room. Met a guy from Toronto, Norm and a girl for Netherlands, Dieuwke (www.dieuwke.tk) also staying there and went for dinner.
The next day we went for a walk throught the tea plantations. We arrived at a small village where the kids were jumping up and down and shouting. Dieuwke was wearing a sari, which seem to amaze everybody we met. People would stop and speak and the only word we would recognise was sari. We were invited in for some tea, by the school teacher, We asked for a photo of Elizabeth (or Maybol, said Elizabeth was her company name?) and her husband. Her husband got changed, combed his hair, selected his best jacket, decided against it and then went outside for the photo.
Strangely when we left the children decided they no longer liked us and threw stones at us, Watch your back! Maybe because we didn't give them a pen? Or just up to mischeive, who knows?
We wandered on for some more and eventually spotted the road where we walked for a bit more past a temple where five guys were "gi'eing it laldy" on the drums. Some sort of small festival presumably. Passing a typical market stall.
Went back for dinner and had some beef which was like galvanised rubber, the chicken the night before was much tastier!
Next day we were going to go to a waterfall but there is no water (I guess it's relegated to being a cliff), so we went to Echo Point. This basically consisted of a forested lake where with lots of Indians shouting across it.
There was a film crew from Kairla TV station who gave us a lift to the end of the lake, after filming us and the rest of the tourists (Fame at last!) Then a large group of guys on holiday offered us a lift upto Top Station, so twelve of us somehow crammed into a jeep. The driver could talk English fine as his wife worked in Ireland. Some of the rest however appeared to have been drinking a bit and were in high spirits. Instant best friends! They didn't speak much English though.
One gave me a try of his sunglasses. I just said "Thanks very much!" which shut them up for a bit. I think only the rich Indians would have sunglasses. At the very edge of the cliff stood a gate where a man tried to charge people for looking at the view, seemed completely pointless as you could see the view fine from the path. Still anything for a quick buck, eh?
I saw the route that Aaron from the rafting must of hiked, he must be very fit! There goes that idea.
Know I now why the bus takes seven hours to go only about 60km. It's down one mountain and up another taller one!
We declined a lift back down in the jeep opting for the bus. As we crossed a dam the guard, as usual asked name, country and then excitedly showed us the dam gutter. When you shout along the wall you get a small echo. Echos seem to be a big thing in India? He then ushered us down to the bottom of the dam. He most of told another group of Indians my name as on the way back up, people were shouting "Colin! Colin!", "How are you, Colin?". Erm "Fine"
Waiting for the bus at 17.30 it turned up at 16.30 but going the wrong way. The conductor asked us where we were going, replied Munnar. He ushered us on the bus, "Yes, yes Munnar. Please sit." as expected it went off for half an hour in the wrong direction before looping back past where we were. Still had a quick look at a small village, Kovilloor. Seemed to be full of ruind jeep being cannabilised fir spare parts, I didn't want to even think about how they got in such a state. Eventually made it back and went for dinner with another Torontoian, if that's the word. Another veg banana leaf place but quite tasty.
I opted against going to Kodiakanal and decided to go straight to Madurai, so back down to the plains, which means get the suntan lotion on again!
Kumily
Close to Kumily lies the Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary. I had arranged with a driver to give me a lift into the park at 6.30 so as to get the first boat which sails around the lake, however my alarm didn't go off and I woke up at 6.40 and jumped out of bed for an extremely quick shower and ran out the door. Unfortunately the driver had left, but as I trudged back resigned to getting the next boat another driver passed. I told him I needed to get to the boat landing in ten minutes. Thankfully he understood and hurtled along the road towards the jetty. I quickly grabbed a ticket and ran down to the boat leaping down the many stairs, breathlessly arriving at the boat at exactly seven o'clock. Success! Of course it was another ten minutes before it actually left.
The early morning boat ride along the lake was beautifuly serene. Rippling along through scenery the sun rose higher, we encountered a few playful otters at the edge of the lake and later a wild elephant with a young baby. A group of German birdwatchers kept excitedly pointing at the trees and peering through their giant binoculars. The lake was artifically created over a hundred years ago for a maharaja who wanted some hunting grounds, alright for some. Some hundred year old tree trunks still stand in the lake making ideal perching points for birds. Some of the landscapes didn't look too disimiliar to Scotland, but warmer! I continued snapping away with my camera, with some wild boar in the far distance.
After doing the boat ride, I returned to the hotel and met the driver who hadn't waited for me! He had other guests who wanted to get to the boat landing that morning, so fair enough. I wouldn't of waited either!
After some cornflakes (not a very Indian breakfast!) I went on to a spice garden via a viewpoint at which you could see into the next state, Tamil Nadu. Also there were some plants which curled up when touched. The driver proclaimed these were called 'Touch-me-nots' I'm pretty sure that's not the latin name.
At the spice garden we wandered around sniffing, smelling and tasting a large variety of spices. Including the bark of the cinnamon tree, green cloves (I had only seen dried black cloves before), curry leaves (smaller than I thought), white green black pepper (picked at different times), mango (not yet in season, so I didn't taste these), gooseberries (very sour!), ginger (well a patch of dirt where it had been harvested), aniseed, coffee (don't smell of much before roasting), banana flower (used in curries), papaya, coconuts, allspice (had assumed this was just a mix of spices, not a real plant), pineapple, cashew, betel nut, chilli, lemongrass,
vanilla (has to be manually pollinated), nutmeg and cocoa. A lot of plants! Also there was sap being drawn to make rubber which is then mixed with acid and put through a press to create sheets of rubber.
All in all, an informative visit!
After dark, I went night trekking through the forest, there was just me and two other tourists, along with a guide and an armed guard!
After quickly deciding that the best chance of spotting animals would be to be directly behind the guide, I maneouvered myself into first place. I spotted some barking deer, samba deer, wild boar(or pork as the guide referred to them) and a brief glimpse of a porcupine, with an even briefer glimpse of a leopard cat. To be honest, I just saw a black shape run away extremely quickly!
But by being behind the guide at least I caught a glimpse, the other two saw nothing. The guide thought he had seen it reappear and the guide and I chased after it stealithly as the sheet lightning briefly illuminated the plains in the ever present humidity. However as we got closer, it turned out to be just some more pork.
Also we passed through a field with hundreds of fireflies flashing their way through the night, producing an eerie green glow as the blipped on and off. The guide expertly grabbed one (just like Karate Kid without the chopsticks) and showed it to us up close.
Unfortunately for the next hour and half, we saw nothing else, as we trudged through the woods in the dark Still after hearing about the night trekking I wanted to do it, because it was unique and glad I did.
Apparently the group before had seen nothing at all, I remembered it had poured down with rain the previous night.
The next day I had a full day in the park doing bamboo rafting and trekking. Again this was excellent as six of us trekked to a different area of the park and then onto a bamboo raft lashed together with string. Another couple of guides had a small two man raft alongside which we would later be thankful of. A couple of extra paddles were handed to us and we took turns of rowing through the water. Not long after we left our raft was grounded un a tree stump submerged just below the water, not this one. After a while, I was wondering if it was time to learn how to swim. However, the second raft ferried people the short distance to shore to lighten the load. After a large Welshman named Garfield moved to the back the raft (You couldn't make this up!), the raft was freed and we returned back aboard. I had rolled up my trousers and taken my shoes off as the bottom of the raft was wet (the seats are raised)
Despite spending weeks in Goa in shorts and not getting so much as an inkling of a tan my legs got burnt. In fact they are kinda crispy now! Probably the water magnifying the heat on an already scorching day. Ouch! I must of used up a couple of gallons of aftersun by now. Of course it never even occured to me to put sunscream on my legs, besides the water would of washed it off anyway.
When we landed at the otherside of the lake, we trekked some more through the forest hunting for elephants which were not to be found. After a while we returned to the lake and had lunch upon which the elephants appeared at the other side of the lake to taunt us.
We returned back across the lake and hiked back passing a samba deer which had been killed by a tiger a few days before. According to the guide the tigers wont eat fresh meat, preferring instead to leave it for four or five days. As somebody says it would taste a bit more gamey. That is if much is left after the flies have been at it. Euurgh! Also got quite close to a buffalo, probably because we where directly behind it, hence the photo of it's bum. I sneaked after a bird to get this photo.
We returned back at the main park centre and decided to just walk the few more km's out the park rather than get a rickshaw. I was walking along with an Isralei, Aaron, who had also done the rafting when he spotted a giant squirrel. He pointed it out and soon caused a traffic jam as any passing car stopped and everybody jumps out with their camera.
Aaron told me he had hiked from Kodiakanal to Munnar. I had a vague idea that that might be good, but I was going in the other direction which meant over a 600m incline, hmmm. Maybe not!
The early morning boat ride along the lake was beautifuly serene. Rippling along through scenery the sun rose higher, we encountered a few playful otters at the edge of the lake and later a wild elephant with a young baby. A group of German birdwatchers kept excitedly pointing at the trees and peering through their giant binoculars. The lake was artifically created over a hundred years ago for a maharaja who wanted some hunting grounds, alright for some. Some hundred year old tree trunks still stand in the lake making ideal perching points for birds. Some of the landscapes didn't look too disimiliar to Scotland, but warmer! I continued snapping away with my camera, with some wild boar in the far distance.
After doing the boat ride, I returned to the hotel and met the driver who hadn't waited for me! He had other guests who wanted to get to the boat landing that morning, so fair enough. I wouldn't of waited either!
After some cornflakes (not a very Indian breakfast!) I went on to a spice garden via a viewpoint at which you could see into the next state, Tamil Nadu. Also there were some plants which curled up when touched. The driver proclaimed these were called 'Touch-me-nots' I'm pretty sure that's not the latin name.
At the spice garden we wandered around sniffing, smelling and tasting a large variety of spices. Including the bark of the cinnamon tree, green cloves (I had only seen dried black cloves before), curry leaves (smaller than I thought), white green black pepper (picked at different times), mango (not yet in season, so I didn't taste these), gooseberries (very sour!), ginger (well a patch of dirt where it had been harvested), aniseed, coffee (don't smell of much before roasting), banana flower (used in curries), papaya, coconuts, allspice (had assumed this was just a mix of spices, not a real plant), pineapple, cashew, betel nut, chilli, lemongrass,
vanilla (has to be manually pollinated), nutmeg and cocoa. A lot of plants! Also there was sap being drawn to make rubber which is then mixed with acid and put through a press to create sheets of rubber.
All in all, an informative visit!
After dark, I went night trekking through the forest, there was just me and two other tourists, along with a guide and an armed guard!
After quickly deciding that the best chance of spotting animals would be to be directly behind the guide, I maneouvered myself into first place. I spotted some barking deer, samba deer, wild boar(or pork as the guide referred to them) and a brief glimpse of a porcupine, with an even briefer glimpse of a leopard cat. To be honest, I just saw a black shape run away extremely quickly!
But by being behind the guide at least I caught a glimpse, the other two saw nothing. The guide thought he had seen it reappear and the guide and I chased after it stealithly as the sheet lightning briefly illuminated the plains in the ever present humidity. However as we got closer, it turned out to be just some more pork.
Also we passed through a field with hundreds of fireflies flashing their way through the night, producing an eerie green glow as the blipped on and off. The guide expertly grabbed one (just like Karate Kid without the chopsticks) and showed it to us up close.
Unfortunately for the next hour and half, we saw nothing else, as we trudged through the woods in the dark Still after hearing about the night trekking I wanted to do it, because it was unique and glad I did.
Apparently the group before had seen nothing at all, I remembered it had poured down with rain the previous night.
The next day I had a full day in the park doing bamboo rafting and trekking. Again this was excellent as six of us trekked to a different area of the park and then onto a bamboo raft lashed together with string. Another couple of guides had a small two man raft alongside which we would later be thankful of. A couple of extra paddles were handed to us and we took turns of rowing through the water. Not long after we left our raft was grounded un a tree stump submerged just below the water, not this one. After a while, I was wondering if it was time to learn how to swim. However, the second raft ferried people the short distance to shore to lighten the load. After a large Welshman named Garfield moved to the back the raft (You couldn't make this up!), the raft was freed and we returned back aboard. I had rolled up my trousers and taken my shoes off as the bottom of the raft was wet (the seats are raised)
Despite spending weeks in Goa in shorts and not getting so much as an inkling of a tan my legs got burnt. In fact they are kinda crispy now! Probably the water magnifying the heat on an already scorching day. Ouch! I must of used up a couple of gallons of aftersun by now. Of course it never even occured to me to put sunscream on my legs, besides the water would of washed it off anyway.
When we landed at the otherside of the lake, we trekked some more through the forest hunting for elephants which were not to be found. After a while we returned to the lake and had lunch upon which the elephants appeared at the other side of the lake to taunt us.
We returned back across the lake and hiked back passing a samba deer which had been killed by a tiger a few days before. According to the guide the tigers wont eat fresh meat, preferring instead to leave it for four or five days. As somebody says it would taste a bit more gamey. That is if much is left after the flies have been at it. Euurgh! Also got quite close to a buffalo, probably because we where directly behind it, hence the photo of it's bum. I sneaked after a bird to get this photo.
We returned back at the main park centre and decided to just walk the few more km's out the park rather than get a rickshaw. I was walking along with an Isralei, Aaron, who had also done the rafting when he spotted a giant squirrel. He pointed it out and soon caused a traffic jam as any passing car stopped and everybody jumps out with their camera.
Aaron told me he had hiked from Kodiakanal to Munnar. I had a vague idea that that might be good, but I was going in the other direction which meant over a 600m incline, hmmm. Maybe not!
Tuesday, February 22, 2005
Kotayam
The next day I left Alappuzha to go on another boat ride to Kotayam.
This time only two and a half hours. More fancy houseboats and some distant and close canoes. But this time the ferry was used by local people unlike the Kollam-Alappuzha cruise which was entirely tourists. After all why go on a ride that takes eight hours on a boat when the bus takes less than a couple of hours, if you're not a tourist?
Also passed a massive bundle of hay, underneath which a boat peeped out. This ferry made many stops where people alighted and joined. We cruised over a large lake which felt like you were almost at sea. Passed a man with a great white moustache, somebody skinning up a coconut tree, people taking it easy and lots of ducks being herded by a man in a canoe! Also saw a few other birds, perhaps comorants and the brilliant blue of the kingfisher (which eluded my camera). As we neared Kotayam we went through more narrow canals again, some were completely covered in green plants, looking like solid ground.
Another tourist on the boat, Barbara, had told me where they were staying and so I tagged along with them, it sounded like a good place and it was. Despite the offers from the rickshaw drivers about his great hotel! After agreeing twenty rupees he now wanted fifty as he realised he was getting any hotel commisions from us.
If you agree twenty that's what you get!
George was the friendly owner of the homestay, set in a village backing onto farmland. Unforturnately I had just missed a festival where the others had gone last night. However the next day Barbara, George and I went to a temple. I'm sure I would never of got there myself as the bus have only Malayalam script for the destinations. However before we got there, after crossing a dodgy bridge, we had a look at George's boat, inscripted in Malayalam, which is used for the Keralan snake boat race. It must be an amazing spectacle to see. The boat is giant! I expected a modest sized rowing boat, but this is a 30-35m boat housed in a large open barn!
Upto thirty boats each with upto a hundred rowers cram onto the canals and race. Unfortunately it takes place in August not Feburary.
Later on we saw another similar boat, but with a garland of flowers handing from the bow. Housed in a concrete building, besides some jackfruit trees, with a copper carving and painted murals adorning the walls. The boats are coated in fish oil to keep them from rotting, or maybe to keep them smelly?
Back at the temple. the walls are covered with innumerable candle holders. It must look great at night, with all the candles lit around the four sides of the temple. There was also a tall golden pillar with small figurines at the base, and intricately carved wooden statues atop tall veritcal poles.
The ground was also very hot as even through my socks I could feel it. Barbara had no socks and was running from shade to shade. There was also some mirrors not made from glass but metal alloys. If you put a pen against it then there would be no gap as in a mirror. This reminded me of something else but I forget.
Tried to take a photo of the moon, but it looks very small!
This time only two and a half hours. More fancy houseboats and some distant and close canoes. But this time the ferry was used by local people unlike the Kollam-Alappuzha cruise which was entirely tourists. After all why go on a ride that takes eight hours on a boat when the bus takes less than a couple of hours, if you're not a tourist?
Also passed a massive bundle of hay, underneath which a boat peeped out. This ferry made many stops where people alighted and joined. We cruised over a large lake which felt like you were almost at sea. Passed a man with a great white moustache, somebody skinning up a coconut tree, people taking it easy and lots of ducks being herded by a man in a canoe! Also saw a few other birds, perhaps comorants and the brilliant blue of the kingfisher (which eluded my camera). As we neared Kotayam we went through more narrow canals again, some were completely covered in green plants, looking like solid ground.
Another tourist on the boat, Barbara, had told me where they were staying and so I tagged along with them, it sounded like a good place and it was. Despite the offers from the rickshaw drivers about his great hotel! After agreeing twenty rupees he now wanted fifty as he realised he was getting any hotel commisions from us.
If you agree twenty that's what you get!
George was the friendly owner of the homestay, set in a village backing onto farmland. Unforturnately I had just missed a festival where the others had gone last night. However the next day Barbara, George and I went to a temple. I'm sure I would never of got there myself as the bus have only Malayalam script for the destinations. However before we got there, after crossing a dodgy bridge, we had a look at George's boat, inscripted in Malayalam, which is used for the Keralan snake boat race. It must be an amazing spectacle to see. The boat is giant! I expected a modest sized rowing boat, but this is a 30-35m boat housed in a large open barn!
Upto thirty boats each with upto a hundred rowers cram onto the canals and race. Unfortunately it takes place in August not Feburary.
Later on we saw another similar boat, but with a garland of flowers handing from the bow. Housed in a concrete building, besides some jackfruit trees, with a copper carving and painted murals adorning the walls. The boats are coated in fish oil to keep them from rotting, or maybe to keep them smelly?
Back at the temple. the walls are covered with innumerable candle holders. It must look great at night, with all the candles lit around the four sides of the temple. There was also a tall golden pillar with small figurines at the base, and intricately carved wooden statues atop tall veritcal poles.
The ground was also very hot as even through my socks I could feel it. Barbara had no socks and was running from shade to shade. There was also some mirrors not made from glass but metal alloys. If you put a pen against it then there would be no gap as in a mirror. This reminded me of something else but I forget.
Tried to take a photo of the moon, but it looks very small!
Kochi
I found a hotel at the third time of asking as the other two were full. I went for a look about and decided to see if I could find a cheaper hotel as I fancied staying here for a few days. I bumped into Paula whom I met from Goa who was leaving tomorrow, but she mentioned her hotel was cheap so I moved in there the next day. I've even got a balcony here. Although I could certainly do without the mozzies buzzing in my ear when I'm trying to sleep.
It is very warm being back down at sea-level again. It doesn't get cold at night which I find makes sleeping hard. Still I can always go for a siesta!
I went down to the harbour and had a look at the chinese fishing nets. These huge nets pivot into the sea, counterweighted by large rocks, each requires at least four men to operate it. It is also next to the ferry port where people are ready to jump off the ferry at first land!
One night I went along to a Kathakali performance. 'Katha' means story and 'Kali' means play. The make-up begans 90 minutes before the start. This performance was for the tourists and so they showed you how the make-up is made from natural rocks mixed with coconut oil and ground into a paste which makes vibrant colours.
The performance is almost like sign language which movements performed and faces pulled. At the start they demonstrated a few movements as the announcer called out. 'King!', "Honey from a lotus!', 'Fear' etc...
Here are the photos:
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
Then onto the main story, although this was in fact just an excerpt full performaces can last a bum-numbing nine hours!
They gave you an outline of the story in English so you could try and follow along, albeit perhaps with limited success.
Here is the outline:
Arjuna - Priding over his skill inarchery by Goddess Parvathy, Lord Shiva goes to the destory the egotism of Arjuna- simultaneously Arjuna's rival king Duryodhana plans to kil him. He sends a demon Mockasure in the form of a pig for killing Arjuna. The pig approaches Arjuna attacks. The savage (Shiva) shoots an arrow, pig killed, Arjuna also sends arrow - Savage gets angry, dispute follows. Terrible clash Arjuna beaten and defeated-now free from egotism, humble. Lord Shiva reveals himself - blesses and offers Arjuna powerful arrow Pasupatham.
I went for a wonder round town and came across a field with a large crowd, a fire engine and a big bundle of hay. So as I looked on curiously, a man told me that a magican was performing. After various speeches by the governor (who drove a Skoda) and a lot of hanging about eventually the show began. Suresh was tied up and a large JCB-type vehicle with a long arm picked him up and lowered him inside the tunnel of hay. After about five minutes the arm retracted. Another few minutes of shoo-ing people away from the hales and bay and then the lit the fire. The bales went up quickly and Suresh re-appeared in the crowd. The crowd threw him up in the air for a bit and cheered. Then quickly began to disperse. Meanwhile Suresh clambered against the crowd to get to the initial platform and do a lot of jumping about and bowing, but by this time the crowd had thinned.
Another day, I walked down through the streets where the spice traders are assembled. The mixtures of strange smells was interesting although sometime you get a whiff of not so pleasant smells from the gutters running alongside the road! I looped back up and past on of the oldest churches in India, the bright blue Santa Cruz Basilica
It is very warm being back down at sea-level again. It doesn't get cold at night which I find makes sleeping hard. Still I can always go for a siesta!
I went down to the harbour and had a look at the chinese fishing nets. These huge nets pivot into the sea, counterweighted by large rocks, each requires at least four men to operate it. It is also next to the ferry port where people are ready to jump off the ferry at first land!
One night I went along to a Kathakali performance. 'Katha' means story and 'Kali' means play. The make-up begans 90 minutes before the start. This performance was for the tourists and so they showed you how the make-up is made from natural rocks mixed with coconut oil and ground into a paste which makes vibrant colours.
The performance is almost like sign language which movements performed and faces pulled. At the start they demonstrated a few movements as the announcer called out. 'King!', "Honey from a lotus!', 'Fear' etc...
Here are the photos:
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
Then onto the main story, although this was in fact just an excerpt full performaces can last a bum-numbing nine hours!
They gave you an outline of the story in English so you could try and follow along, albeit perhaps with limited success.
Here is the outline:
Arjuna - Priding over his skill inarchery by Goddess Parvathy, Lord Shiva goes to the destory the egotism of Arjuna- simultaneously Arjuna's rival king Duryodhana plans to kil him. He sends a demon Mockasure in the form of a pig for killing Arjuna. The pig approaches Arjuna attacks. The savage (Shiva) shoots an arrow, pig killed, Arjuna also sends arrow - Savage gets angry, dispute follows. Terrible clash Arjuna beaten and defeated-now free from egotism, humble. Lord Shiva reveals himself - blesses and offers Arjuna powerful arrow Pasupatham.
I went for a wonder round town and came across a field with a large crowd, a fire engine and a big bundle of hay. So as I looked on curiously, a man told me that a magican was performing. After various speeches by the governor (who drove a Skoda) and a lot of hanging about eventually the show began. Suresh was tied up and a large JCB-type vehicle with a long arm picked him up and lowered him inside the tunnel of hay. After about five minutes the arm retracted. Another few minutes of shoo-ing people away from the hales and bay and then the lit the fire. The bales went up quickly and Suresh re-appeared in the crowd. The crowd threw him up in the air for a bit and cheered. Then quickly began to disperse. Meanwhile Suresh clambered against the crowd to get to the initial platform and do a lot of jumping about and bowing, but by this time the crowd had thinned.
Another day, I walked down through the streets where the spice traders are assembled. The mixtures of strange smells was interesting although sometime you get a whiff of not so pleasant smells from the gutters running alongside the road! I looped back up and past on of the oldest churches in India, the bright blue Santa Cruz Basilica
Sunday, February 20, 2005
Kollam
I arrived in Kollam, passing Allapuzha, and opted for the ambitously named Hotel Shine. Still it was fairly clean in my 'semi-deluxe' room. The 'ordinary' rooms had a few too many ants for my liking!
I bought a ticket for the eight hour cruise down the backwaters from the hotel, my main objective in Kerala. As I boarded the ferry the next day, a guy took my ticket and looked at it suspicously. I was a bit wary of buying the ticket from the hotel rather than direct from the jetty. I went to take the ticket back and he rather tetchily waved me away on to the boat. As I was sitting on the boat I was wondering why he had taken the tickets for the people in front of me. I was wondering if I was getting ripped off and would have to buy another ticket.
I saw the ticket collector give somebody back their ticket and then when he came round to me he looked at me, recognised my face and then went back and took the ticket off the original guy and asked if I was Mr. Colin. Yep, so all was fine. But sometimes you get a bit paranoid when you don't know what is going on!
Unforutnately I had buried my camera at the bottom of my bag, so no pictures from this boatride. In retrospect I should of probably dug it out as the scenery was excellent. We rode pass fancy houseboats, some costs the same as five-star hotels. Although they are brilliantly constructed. The cruise I was on is just a public ferry. The houseboats in contrast, have their own private chefs, dining tables etc. I even rode past one with somebody reclining on on a huge bed in the sun, on the fore of the boat.
We stopped for lunch at a riverside hotel where we got a thali. Then back to cruising down the water, I think the top speed is around 12km/hour, so not exactly flying along. Later on we stopped again for a snack, as long as you like your food fried. I opted for a fried banana in batter, which was tasty, along with the obligatory chai.
As you sail along all the children shout out "One pen! Gimme one pen!", well except for one excitable young girl who danced about and flashed her knickers, much to the amusement of the people on the boat.
We proceeded along past more chines fishing nets and the occasional canoe. Then as we approached Aluppuzha through more narrow canals and eventually to the jetty. Overall a very enjoyable ride and a good way to spend a relaxing day.
I had arranged with a guy at the chai stop to stay at his hotel
, so I got a free pickup and drop off. The touts aren't all bad!
At the hotel they had two large fish tanks, one with a large sturgeon fish in with what seemed to be a diminishing number of minnows. The other tanks had two giant shrimps who lazily snapped at large cichlids.
I bought a ticket for the eight hour cruise down the backwaters from the hotel, my main objective in Kerala. As I boarded the ferry the next day, a guy took my ticket and looked at it suspicously. I was a bit wary of buying the ticket from the hotel rather than direct from the jetty. I went to take the ticket back and he rather tetchily waved me away on to the boat. As I was sitting on the boat I was wondering why he had taken the tickets for the people in front of me. I was wondering if I was getting ripped off and would have to buy another ticket.
I saw the ticket collector give somebody back their ticket and then when he came round to me he looked at me, recognised my face and then went back and took the ticket off the original guy and asked if I was Mr. Colin. Yep, so all was fine. But sometimes you get a bit paranoid when you don't know what is going on!
Unforutnately I had buried my camera at the bottom of my bag, so no pictures from this boatride. In retrospect I should of probably dug it out as the scenery was excellent. We rode pass fancy houseboats, some costs the same as five-star hotels. Although they are brilliantly constructed. The cruise I was on is just a public ferry. The houseboats in contrast, have their own private chefs, dining tables etc. I even rode past one with somebody reclining on on a huge bed in the sun, on the fore of the boat.
We stopped for lunch at a riverside hotel where we got a thali. Then back to cruising down the water, I think the top speed is around 12km/hour, so not exactly flying along. Later on we stopped again for a snack, as long as you like your food fried. I opted for a fried banana in batter, which was tasty, along with the obligatory chai.
As you sail along all the children shout out "One pen! Gimme one pen!", well except for one excitable young girl who danced about and flashed her knickers, much to the amusement of the people on the boat.
We proceeded along past more chines fishing nets and the occasional canoe. Then as we approached Aluppuzha through more narrow canals and eventually to the jetty. Overall a very enjoyable ride and a good way to spend a relaxing day.
I had arranged with a guy at the chai stop to stay at his hotel
, so I got a free pickup and drop off. The touts aren't all bad!
At the hotel they had two large fish tanks, one with a large sturgeon fish in with what seemed to be a diminishing number of minnows. The other tanks had two giant shrimps who lazily snapped at large cichlids.
Coonoor
I arrived in Coonoor in the afternoon and has a quick look around. The next day heavy rain curtailed my explorations. During my time in Coonoor it seemed to be under near perpetual atmospheric fog. In a fit of optimism I set off through the mist the next day and headed out to Dolphin's Nose a viewpoint overlooking the valley. I hoped as I walked the 12km, past a moutain, there that the fog would lift and permit me spectacular views, not so, although people gave me a wave through the mist. When I eventually arrived I was greeted by a view of dense greyness, although it did briefly lift a bit for a few minutes, this is as good as it gets. Oh well, I dug my banana out of my bag for a snack and the monkey quickly noticed. I managed to grab my bag just before it was snatched away, although I don't think the small monkey near would of been able to drag it far!
I considered getting the bus back as I had seen a busstop about a kilometre back but as I was walking I decided I would just walk the whole way back as at least the misty weather made for amiable temperatures. I approached a chai shop where I had stopped previously on the way there. I was invited to a game of Caranibs. I watched other playing a game, then had a go myself. The object is to shoot your checkers into the corner pockets a bit like table snooker. I wasn't very good at it. I then asked if I could have a photo and all hell broke loose! Guys seem to appear from nowhere at the mention of a camera. Everybody crowded round me for the group photo. Then I was dragged in front of the shop for the promotional photo.
Finally I returned to the YWCA, where I was staying despite not being a young woman!
It is one of the few budget options in upper Coonoor, set in an old colonial house. I got caught up in a game of cards after dinner, with an English couple and the excitable young girl who lived there with her parents. I think she knew at least three languages (Malayalam, Tamil and English, probably some Hindi too) and she was only seven. Also living there was a ickle kitten
The day before I left to go to Kochi via Combiatore, I went to Simms Park. This was quite similar to the Botanical Gardens at Ooty. It had been started over 120 years ago and made for a pleasant stroll, through the plants and stuff!
I considered getting the bus back as I had seen a busstop about a kilometre back but as I was walking I decided I would just walk the whole way back as at least the misty weather made for amiable temperatures. I approached a chai shop where I had stopped previously on the way there. I was invited to a game of Caranibs. I watched other playing a game, then had a go myself. The object is to shoot your checkers into the corner pockets a bit like table snooker. I wasn't very good at it. I then asked if I could have a photo and all hell broke loose! Guys seem to appear from nowhere at the mention of a camera. Everybody crowded round me for the group photo. Then I was dragged in front of the shop for the promotional photo.
Finally I returned to the YWCA, where I was staying despite not being a young woman!
It is one of the few budget options in upper Coonoor, set in an old colonial house. I got caught up in a game of cards after dinner, with an English couple and the excitable young girl who lived there with her parents. I think she knew at least three languages (Malayalam, Tamil and English, probably some Hindi too) and she was only seven. Also living there was a ickle kitten
The day before I left to go to Kochi via Combiatore, I went to Simms Park. This was quite similar to the Botanical Gardens at Ooty. It had been started over 120 years ago and made for a pleasant stroll, through the plants and stuff!
Tuesday, February 15, 2005
Snooty Ooty
As I stepped off the bus it most of taken all of five seconds before I was befriended by a man who had rooms. As I hadn't looked at my guide book I went along and got a room. I was charged an extra twenty rupees tax. This is basically the touts 'finding fee' as it only applied the first night. I had a quick look around Ooty. I have seen it described as having fading Raj grandeur. To be honest it's more like faded grandeur. Still I wandered off to an old restaurant to sample a step back in time to the good old days, tallyho!
The restaurant had old furniture in the corners, a grandfather clock, china plates pinned to the walls and a gramaphone. At first I thought they were playing tunes from the forties but later on as I listened more closely I realised it was an accordion playing a selection of the standards, such as Happy Birthday and The Birdie Song. Very strange.
Things didn't get any better when the waiter arrived acting like a cross from a Stephen King film and Fawlty Towers, whilst wearing a Val Doonacan sweater. He definitely seemed a little odd. Still the meal was okay although the plastic plates seemed conspicously out of place.
I was only here for a day and one of the few places I didn't get lost it in. This is due to the fact that it is built round a large racecourse which helps for orientation.
I popped into a nice shop called Hot Breads which had tasty fresh pastries and a very yummy chocolate bun. Now if I could just find somewhere that does a good bacon roll and sells Irn-Bru I'd be a happy bunny!
I like this 24hour checkout that some hotels have, as I didn't get into Ooty till about four o'clock and the next day I was getting the train at three. This meant that I could leave my luggage in my room for the morning and come back later. I walked up to the Botanic Gardens, where I got stuck behind about fifty OAPS in the queue. Maybe this is where the Indians retired to? I nosied about for a bit, there are a lot of plants, and had my lunch, I think I picked up a bit more sunburn. At this altitude (2200m) you probably get burnt a bit easier than you realise. Then I headed back to share my room with a big spider
Later on I caught the train along to Coonoor, on an ageing steam train for the princely sum of seven rupees. I was expecting to be crammed in like sardines after seeing the amount of people that got of the carriage. It reminded me of one of these comedy sketches where twenty people come out the back of the taxi. Forntuately it was a lot quieter going back down and I had plenty of space and a good view out of the window. With my head sticking out the window to see where I was going, I probably looked like a dog in a car, except I managed to keep my tongue in.
The restaurant had old furniture in the corners, a grandfather clock, china plates pinned to the walls and a gramaphone. At first I thought they were playing tunes from the forties but later on as I listened more closely I realised it was an accordion playing a selection of the standards, such as Happy Birthday and The Birdie Song. Very strange.
Things didn't get any better when the waiter arrived acting like a cross from a Stephen King film and Fawlty Towers, whilst wearing a Val Doonacan sweater. He definitely seemed a little odd. Still the meal was okay although the plastic plates seemed conspicously out of place.
I was only here for a day and one of the few places I didn't get lost it in. This is due to the fact that it is built round a large racecourse which helps for orientation.
I popped into a nice shop called Hot Breads which had tasty fresh pastries and a very yummy chocolate bun. Now if I could just find somewhere that does a good bacon roll and sells Irn-Bru I'd be a happy bunny!
I like this 24hour checkout that some hotels have, as I didn't get into Ooty till about four o'clock and the next day I was getting the train at three. This meant that I could leave my luggage in my room for the morning and come back later. I walked up to the Botanic Gardens, where I got stuck behind about fifty OAPS in the queue. Maybe this is where the Indians retired to? I nosied about for a bit, there are a lot of plants, and had my lunch, I think I picked up a bit more sunburn. At this altitude (2200m) you probably get burnt a bit easier than you realise. Then I headed back to share my room with a big spider
Later on I caught the train along to Coonoor, on an ageing steam train for the princely sum of seven rupees. I was expecting to be crammed in like sardines after seeing the amount of people that got of the carriage. It reminded me of one of these comedy sketches where twenty people come out the back of the taxi. Forntuately it was a lot quieter going back down and I had plenty of space and a good view out of the window. With my head sticking out the window to see where I was going, I probably looked like a dog in a car, except I managed to keep my tongue in.
Friday, February 11, 2005
Mysore
I arrived in Mysore and tried the Parklane hotel, but it was full, however, as is usually the case the rickshaw driver knew somewhere else. I however wanted to have a look at another hotel. The other hotel wasn't much cop so I ended up going with to the tuk-tuk drivers choice, which was about 50m from the original hotel. Round and round in circles.
I had a look at the Maharaja's Palace(1,2,3,4) during the day and also popped into the markets, where the vendors try to persuade you to buy incense and oils. At the end of the day my hands were covered in various smelly oils. However, I refused the paints which they want to decorate you with!
I happened to be there on the Sunday night which is when the lights at the Palace (1,2,3,4,5) are turned on for an hour, almost a 100,000 of them!
Some would say it was gaudy, others spectacular, perhaps spectacularly gaudy? Still it certainly lit up the sky!
I went to the post office to send home a CD, but as usual a simple task ends up taking ages!
Of course, the post office don't sell envelopes. So I wandered outside and found a vendor of all sorts of stuff. He had envelopes but only giant ones. I purchased the large envelope and then as I was going to post it. I realised I didn't have a pen on me and the envelope didn't have a sticky seal. So I nipped back to the hotel and packaged it up. At least this time they allowed me to post it, the other time they refused saying it wasn't good enough packaging and would be broken when stamped. I had images of an angry, muttering man in the stamping department crushing everybodys packages!
At dinner I noticed many of the small differences from the UK. They gave me a menu before coming back and lighting a candle so I could actually read it. The way the waiters 'borrowed' the flame from my candle to light another one. The waiter asked half way through whether I wanted any dessert or coffee. The bill was settled in the foyer of the hotel. No huge difference just a myriad of small ones, and that rounds up my cultural analysis of waiting staff in India!
Motorbike is King in India, although finding where you parked your bike could be a bit harder.
Next stop Ooty!
I had a look at the Maharaja's Palace(1,2,3,4) during the day and also popped into the markets, where the vendors try to persuade you to buy incense and oils. At the end of the day my hands were covered in various smelly oils. However, I refused the paints which they want to decorate you with!
I happened to be there on the Sunday night which is when the lights at the Palace (1,2,3,4,5) are turned on for an hour, almost a 100,000 of them!
Some would say it was gaudy, others spectacular, perhaps spectacularly gaudy? Still it certainly lit up the sky!
I went to the post office to send home a CD, but as usual a simple task ends up taking ages!
Of course, the post office don't sell envelopes. So I wandered outside and found a vendor of all sorts of stuff. He had envelopes but only giant ones. I purchased the large envelope and then as I was going to post it. I realised I didn't have a pen on me and the envelope didn't have a sticky seal. So I nipped back to the hotel and packaged it up. At least this time they allowed me to post it, the other time they refused saying it wasn't good enough packaging and would be broken when stamped. I had images of an angry, muttering man in the stamping department crushing everybodys packages!
At dinner I noticed many of the small differences from the UK. They gave me a menu before coming back and lighting a candle so I could actually read it. The way the waiters 'borrowed' the flame from my candle to light another one. The waiter asked half way through whether I wanted any dessert or coffee. The bill was settled in the foyer of the hotel. No huge difference just a myriad of small ones, and that rounds up my cultural analysis of waiting staff in India!
Motorbike is King in India, although finding where you parked your bike could be a bit harder.
Next stop Ooty!
Sunday, February 06, 2005
Honey Valley
I had phoned Honey Valley from the bus stop, but got cut off as the owner was explaining how to get there. I would of phoned back but the bus was getting ready to leave. I knew that I should get off at a village called Kakkabe (turns out the next village, Kabinnakad is closer) and the only way to get ther are by jeep or by using your plates of meat.
So I arrived in Kakkabe and asked a local what way to Honey Valley and they pointed me down the road and so I started walking. A long wway later I arrived at Kabinnakad, the next village. Then I walked upto Honey Valley with my backpack, trust me, phone and get the jeep up!
As I arrived, sweaty and breathless, three large dogs ran down barking loudly to meet me. One dog, placed its front paws on me chest and stared into my face. I stood very still!
The owners, Suresh and Sushella, calmly explained that the dogs tended to get excited at new people. That may be the case, but it's not going to wash the pawprints from my t-shirt!
The dogs were called Rocky 1,2 & 3 \. They often come on walks with you, if it wasn't too near feeding time, in which case they totally ignored you.
Honey Valley is situated in the Kodagu region of Karnataka, about 1200m above sea level. This means that it is slightly cooler than down in most cities. It also used to be one of the largest honey producers in Asia until the bees were chased away by bigger bees (or something). Now it has changed to tourism and coffee bean production. Also has a few peppers, banana, papaya(top right) trees dotted around. Honey Valley consists of a variety of huts and some old houses. Recently they have been expanded with a new dining hall and kitchen and extra rooms. We were there for the inauguration of the new kitchen, they can now cook chapatis at warp speed!
It was a nice change from the cities, to be out and about in the countryside. Supplied was a book of walks with directions and maps, but I still got lost numerous times. Still that's half the fun.
On my first day I climbed up a hill adjacent to Honey Valley. Here there are huge plants.
I eventually got to the summit and was well chuffed.
I could take arty black and white photos up here.
Although there is plenty of colourful plants around, also lots of flowers and creepers along with the occasional spider.
This red leaf caught my eye, whilst above the foliage was thick.
It was very green with good views. The dogs like to pose on rocks, even when you ignore them.
Still some good views to be had, and blue skies.
I came across the remains of a cow?
Up at the summits you could see a long way.
There was a walk down to a natural swimming pool, which was covered in skating beasties, but it didn't seem to deter the hardened swimmers for getting a dip. Another walk was along a mountain ridge where good panoramic views were visible. A lot of the walks were through shaded forested paths, crossing small streams, the trees providing some relief from the sun. One day a few of us tried to get to the top of a waterfall, but lost the path and we had to blaze a trail through the forest! Luckily we came out in a patch of plantations eventually. It was strange to be about 5m from a clearing and not realise it util you popped out the other side of the bushes, so thick was the vegetation in places. Still be regained our bearings and climbed back up to a familiar ridge for a packed lunch of tomatoes, bananas and bombay mix. I ate a humungous dinner that night, as I hadn't planned to miss lunhc and had to nick some food off the others.
There was a good mix of people there when I arrived and I ended up staying longer than I initially thought I would. After all that walking you certainly work up a good apetite. The only trouble was dinner wasn't server until about eight, by which time I was gnawing my own hand as the full moon rose. When I first arrived in India I was amazed at the amount of rice people were putting away, but now I seem to be the same!
Dinner is server in a communal dining room, with lots of passing of plates amongst the hunger people. You have to be quick to get in their first, but thankfully they refill the empty plates.
Sometime we had a bonfire and a few beers after dinner. Staring up at the stars, it was hard to believe that I was still in India with peace and quiet. Usually about that time the dogs would start snarling and barking at each other, although they also enjoyed peacefully sleeping round the warm fire, in their calmer moments.
One day the dogs came along for a walk and started their usual snarling at each other. But this time it was a full moon and they decided to really go for each other. As two dogs locked jaws and tumbled about, the third came in and nipped at their legs. It looked bad as one came past with a gashed lip and dripping blood while the other had a bloodied nose, however they were sitting side by side the next day.
On my last day I decided to go up a mountain, and so set off early after breakfast.
Passed an isolated little farm house in these beautiful surroundings. After a week of walking I made the summit in under two hours, somewhat suprising myself (although it was probably the smallest peak). I walked along a steep sided ridge to get to the top, passing a massive bee! (it was THIS size, stretches out arms) I got to the summit just in time to get good views in all directions. Just five minutes later the weather moved in and the clouds poured up over the mountain peak. I sat in an area where the clouds were streaming across, the hope of some cool cloud vapour, but it didn't seem to make any difference. I headed back down and past an area where I had previously caught a glimpse of some wild deer, but none today, so back to the ranch for a hearty lunch, as the light danced in the clouds. I stopped off briefly at a stream, with moss like a forest to the passing ants.
In Honey Valley you can see quite a variety of birds, but most of the time you can only hear them, especially those woodpeckers. Also butterflies meander through the forest and the flowers, but getting them to stay still for a photo is a bit harder, but sometimes they briefly obliged.
Honey Valley is surrounded by coffee plantations, which are harvested and then dried on the grounds. To go for walks you have to walk past the drying coffee beans and the occasional sunbathing lizard and past the vibrant flowers. These are laid out for around ten days to dry, but have to be gathered up each night to prevent the damp getting to them. I even ended up drinking a lot of coffee which sure tasted a lot better than the stuff for meetings in work!
After a while I decided it was time to leave though, and so back to the hustle and bustle of the cities, next stop Mysore. Just as I was about to get on a bus an Indian couple, Deepak and Laxmi, who were also staying at Honey Valley drop past me and very kindly offered me a lift to within 30kms of Mysore and they were heading back to Bangalore. so that served as a gentle re-introduction to the noise and clamour, and more pleasant than being stuck on a bone-jarring bus for hours.
So I arrived in Kakkabe and asked a local what way to Honey Valley and they pointed me down the road and so I started walking. A long wway later I arrived at Kabinnakad, the next village. Then I walked upto Honey Valley with my backpack, trust me, phone and get the jeep up!
As I arrived, sweaty and breathless, three large dogs ran down barking loudly to meet me. One dog, placed its front paws on me chest and stared into my face. I stood very still!
The owners, Suresh and Sushella, calmly explained that the dogs tended to get excited at new people. That may be the case, but it's not going to wash the pawprints from my t-shirt!
The dogs were called Rocky 1,2 & 3 \. They often come on walks with you, if it wasn't too near feeding time, in which case they totally ignored you.
Honey Valley is situated in the Kodagu region of Karnataka, about 1200m above sea level. This means that it is slightly cooler than down in most cities. It also used to be one of the largest honey producers in Asia until the bees were chased away by bigger bees (or something). Now it has changed to tourism and coffee bean production. Also has a few peppers, banana, papaya(top right) trees dotted around. Honey Valley consists of a variety of huts and some old houses. Recently they have been expanded with a new dining hall and kitchen and extra rooms. We were there for the inauguration of the new kitchen, they can now cook chapatis at warp speed!
It was a nice change from the cities, to be out and about in the countryside. Supplied was a book of walks with directions and maps, but I still got lost numerous times. Still that's half the fun.
On my first day I climbed up a hill adjacent to Honey Valley. Here there are huge plants.
I eventually got to the summit and was well chuffed.
I could take arty black and white photos up here.
Although there is plenty of colourful plants around, also lots of flowers and creepers along with the occasional spider.
This red leaf caught my eye, whilst above the foliage was thick.
It was very green with good views. The dogs like to pose on rocks, even when you ignore them.
Still some good views to be had, and blue skies.
I came across the remains of a cow?
Up at the summits you could see a long way.
There was a walk down to a natural swimming pool, which was covered in skating beasties, but it didn't seem to deter the hardened swimmers for getting a dip. Another walk was along a mountain ridge where good panoramic views were visible. A lot of the walks were through shaded forested paths, crossing small streams, the trees providing some relief from the sun. One day a few of us tried to get to the top of a waterfall, but lost the path and we had to blaze a trail through the forest! Luckily we came out in a patch of plantations eventually. It was strange to be about 5m from a clearing and not realise it util you popped out the other side of the bushes, so thick was the vegetation in places. Still be regained our bearings and climbed back up to a familiar ridge for a packed lunch of tomatoes, bananas and bombay mix. I ate a humungous dinner that night, as I hadn't planned to miss lunhc and had to nick some food off the others.
There was a good mix of people there when I arrived and I ended up staying longer than I initially thought I would. After all that walking you certainly work up a good apetite. The only trouble was dinner wasn't server until about eight, by which time I was gnawing my own hand as the full moon rose. When I first arrived in India I was amazed at the amount of rice people were putting away, but now I seem to be the same!
Dinner is server in a communal dining room, with lots of passing of plates amongst the hunger people. You have to be quick to get in their first, but thankfully they refill the empty plates.
Sometime we had a bonfire and a few beers after dinner. Staring up at the stars, it was hard to believe that I was still in India with peace and quiet. Usually about that time the dogs would start snarling and barking at each other, although they also enjoyed peacefully sleeping round the warm fire, in their calmer moments.
One day the dogs came along for a walk and started their usual snarling at each other. But this time it was a full moon and they decided to really go for each other. As two dogs locked jaws and tumbled about, the third came in and nipped at their legs. It looked bad as one came past with a gashed lip and dripping blood while the other had a bloodied nose, however they were sitting side by side the next day.
On my last day I decided to go up a mountain, and so set off early after breakfast.
Passed an isolated little farm house in these beautiful surroundings. After a week of walking I made the summit in under two hours, somewhat suprising myself (although it was probably the smallest peak). I walked along a steep sided ridge to get to the top, passing a massive bee! (it was THIS size, stretches out arms) I got to the summit just in time to get good views in all directions. Just five minutes later the weather moved in and the clouds poured up over the mountain peak. I sat in an area where the clouds were streaming across, the hope of some cool cloud vapour, but it didn't seem to make any difference. I headed back down and past an area where I had previously caught a glimpse of some wild deer, but none today, so back to the ranch for a hearty lunch, as the light danced in the clouds. I stopped off briefly at a stream, with moss like a forest to the passing ants.
In Honey Valley you can see quite a variety of birds, but most of the time you can only hear them, especially those woodpeckers. Also butterflies meander through the forest and the flowers, but getting them to stay still for a photo is a bit harder, but sometimes they briefly obliged.
Honey Valley is surrounded by coffee plantations, which are harvested and then dried on the grounds. To go for walks you have to walk past the drying coffee beans and the occasional sunbathing lizard and past the vibrant flowers. These are laid out for around ten days to dry, but have to be gathered up each night to prevent the damp getting to them. I even ended up drinking a lot of coffee which sure tasted a lot better than the stuff for meetings in work!
After a while I decided it was time to leave though, and so back to the hustle and bustle of the cities, next stop Mysore. Just as I was about to get on a bus an Indian couple, Deepak and Laxmi, who were also staying at Honey Valley drop past me and very kindly offered me a lift to within 30kms of Mysore and they were heading back to Bangalore. so that served as a gentle re-introduction to the noise and clamour, and more pleasant than being stuck on a bone-jarring bus for hours.
Monday, January 31, 2005
Madikeri
I arrived in Madikeri in Coorg. just as the sun was going down. I had planned to arrive earlier but was late dragging myself out of bed. Then I decided to walk down to the bus stop as I thought I new where it was, however I went to the wrong bus stop! Only private buses left from here and I needed a goverment bus. So I hopped into a tuk-tuk and caught the correct bus. Four or five hours later I eventually arrived in Madikeri. The last fifteen kilometers took over half an hour as the bus slowly crawled its way up the road.
I got a room in Hotel Cauvery but it wasn't that great. At 23.00 the room became mysteriously illuminated. It turned out what I intuitively assumed was a wall actually had a window looking through to the dining hall from where the light and noise of the staff came. That would explain the two set of curtains!
I moved into Hilltown Hotel the next day a pleasant hotel for not much more dosh. You even get a free paper slipped under your door in the morning.
I decided to try and find a hotel listed in the Lonely Planet which has a terrace and is a good place for a sunset drink. I stumbled across it and wandered in. The terrace appeared to be next door to the garden I was currently in and the view back across the valley was obscured by hedges. So I traipsed back indoors and asked the staff for the terrace where I was pointed up the stairs and to the left. I appeared higher up, but on a building site! I guess the terrace is being reconstructed. I just can't see being allowed onto a bulding site in Britain, never mind being directed by the staff! But I guess that's what makes India a bit different.
I had a look about town coming across a typical Indian corner shop where I wondered if the cat was also for sale. I found the macros button on my camera and took some closeups.
Later I came across an even better cat with execellent eyes.
I went to a museum where they had a couple of large elephant statues. Then I went for a walk out of town into the greenery with big spiky plants.
I headed back to the park for a good view of the valley. Coorg covers only 2% of Karnataka but has 40% of the ecological biodiversity. The landscape is a mixture of forests and green fields set in rolling hills.
Next stop is into the forest!
I got a room in Hotel Cauvery but it wasn't that great. At 23.00 the room became mysteriously illuminated. It turned out what I intuitively assumed was a wall actually had a window looking through to the dining hall from where the light and noise of the staff came. That would explain the two set of curtains!
I moved into Hilltown Hotel the next day a pleasant hotel for not much more dosh. You even get a free paper slipped under your door in the morning.
I decided to try and find a hotel listed in the Lonely Planet which has a terrace and is a good place for a sunset drink. I stumbled across it and wandered in. The terrace appeared to be next door to the garden I was currently in and the view back across the valley was obscured by hedges. So I traipsed back indoors and asked the staff for the terrace where I was pointed up the stairs and to the left. I appeared higher up, but on a building site! I guess the terrace is being reconstructed. I just can't see being allowed onto a bulding site in Britain, never mind being directed by the staff! But I guess that's what makes India a bit different.
I had a look about town coming across a typical Indian corner shop where I wondered if the cat was also for sale. I found the macros button on my camera and took some closeups.
Later I came across an even better cat with execellent eyes.
I went to a museum where they had a couple of large elephant statues. Then I went for a walk out of town into the greenery with big spiky plants.
I headed back to the park for a good view of the valley. Coorg covers only 2% of Karnataka but has 40% of the ecological biodiversity. The landscape is a mixture of forests and green fields set in rolling hills.
Next stop is into the forest!
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