Zadar

I arrived late in Zadar and went for food at a local restaurant, turned out to be more massive portions, double pork chops! Next day I headed into the old town, a 30 minute walk along the coast and then down the pier where a boatman rows you across for 5 kuna. I had a browse around and headed into the archaeological museum, which is order chronological from the top floor. On the top floor is iron age/prehistory, not so much to look at. The floor below is Antiquity, the Roman era which has much more. It covers various aspects of life, e.g. economy.

Another place with lots of cafes, but like most central locations not the cheapest prices. I just grabbed a sandwich from a bakery, too much heavy food! At night in the old town there is the 'Sun Salutation' an odd installation which is powered by solar cells during the day to light up the led panels at dusk. Alongside the sea organ, a serious of wave powered pipes powered by the sea to make 'music' in the loosest sense of the word. I had dinner in the old town, but the local restaurant the night before was much better!

Plitvice Lakes

I continued south stopping off for a day at Plitvice Lake. If you see pictures of Croatia, this place is almost certainly included, and with good reason! Thankfully my bus stopped at Entrance 1 (It looked like I was getting dumped at the other entrance) which was near-ish my guesthouse, so I dumped off the bags, returning for lunch at the on-site restaurant. I picked up a two-ticket as my bus wasn't till 15:15 the next day. Heading into the Lakes fairly late, I seemed to miss the worst of the crowds (I saw a huge queue the next day!) Many people will do it as a day trip so have to be back to catch their bus, I had the luxury of not having any time constraint. Once you have your ticket, you glance at the map and come to the entrance and wow! Situated form a height, overlooking the park, a huge waterfall on the right, lakes with a multitude of waterfalls on the left. Walkways snake below link the lakes and the big waterfall. A series of staggered freshwater lakes forms a unique ecosystem with logs and reeds filtering the crystal clear water. Going in the water is strictly forbidden.

I followed Path C seeing innumerable waterfalls with the aquamarine lakes. Eventually I got the bus all way back from Station 3 to Entrance 1. Here I headed back to the restaurant as everywhere else had shut. The next day I was up fairly early to beat the crowds and headed back into the park. I walked a few hours in the morning, returned for lunch then I still had a few hours till the bus, so I may as well head back in rather than looking at the carpark! Unfortunately that's when it decided to absolutely pour down for an hour or so. I waited it out for a while, but decided to call it a day and head back to the bus. At least I had great weather for the most part, and unlike some poor people my visit wasn't a washout! I got into my guesthouse in Zadar around 18:00, still damp and a long day but definitely worth it!

Zagreb

A 5 hour bus journey brought me from Budapest to Zagreb. A quick walk around find the funicular railway, This 'connects' the old town to the new. An entirely pointless contraption which takes 55seconds to go the 66metres distance. You are quicker just walking up the stairs than waiting for it, but worth it for the ride once.

Loads of small museums are dotted around Zagreb. One building catches the eye with a neatly tiled roof depicting the Croation flag. I popped into the Naive Art museum which houses art from artists with no formal training. So perhaps farmers who painted in their spare time, most of was actually very good. Back near the main square, a market is just closing with all the traders packing up, escaping the afternoon heat.

I headed to have a look at the impressive Zagreb Cathedral, apparently still the tallest building in Croatia. An unusual way of getting around is to go through the Gric Tunnel which go mainly East to West underneath the shops and houses for 350m.

Another day I decided to head out to the Zoo. Jumped on a tram and 30 minutes later was in a large, leafy park opposite the Dinamo Zagreb stadium. A ticket is 30 kuna and a decent way to spend a few hours, maybe not the best zoo in the world, but probably decent for the region. 3 big lions lay sleeping in a cave, with just a glass panel in between (thankfully!). Elsewhere a shaven llama looked ridiculous.

Some other museum and galleries were in the city centre so I went in for nosy. One had an exhibition on furniture which wasn't too riveting. Another grand gallery was almost empty. Lots of really old paintings, some from the 12th century, very much focused on religious iconography but over time subject digressed. As there was nobody else there I had to wave around to get the lights to go on in each room!

Breezing through Budapest

Following the main transport routes it was time to revisit Hungary.
Ahoy is actually Hungarian for hello.
Maybe I was in different areas, or Budapest has been revamped, but unlike Prague it brought back little memories. Had a look through of the shopping district, high-street like areas, don't remember it being like this all but perhaps it's been reinvigorated since my previous visit. But further out of the city centre there is more people on the streets than other cities I've been to.

I popped into a local eatery and strangely enough they had a menu for Thai food (with Thai writing which always makes it look legit!) So I had some Chicken Fried Rice, and it was pretty good, portion was about 3 times what you would get in Thailand!

Later I took a roadside seat for a beer in a Hungarian Karoke bar where somebody was cranking out some ridiculous 80s metal falsettos. On Sunday most things were closed and I was happy to have a relaxing day, next stop Zagreb.

Breezing through Bratislava

From Prague I reversed direction travelling back through Brno and on to Bratislava, Slovakia.
I visited the City museum, not many people in here so staff are keeping an eye on me. Cafe culture in heaps. Dotted about every which way, was pretty busy on the Friday. I wanted to visit the Danubiana Meulensteen Art Museum, a modern art museum which, as you might have guessed, is on the Danube. You can get a boat to go here as it is 20km out of town, but the boat only runs weekends, so I was on the bus. After finding the bus 'area' I couldn't quite find the specific stop, until I saw the bus pull away round the corner.

Oh well, I'll get the next one, time for a wander through the nearby, shiny and new Europeum mall. Anyway at the museum, it is a mix of outdoor sculpture and indoor exhibitions. Some wacky stuff, like 'Yellow Embrace' where you duck into a space and are surround by large portraits of a yellow being! Back in town the main thing to do seem to be to drink coffee or beer and watch the world go by. I can do that!

Peregrinating Prague

So after Brno it was off to Prague for a few days. 1st stop the castle which along with Charles Bridge stirred some dusty memories from my visit over 15 years ago. Perched upon the hill, this sprawling complex began in 870 and now host a series of building from different eras like an architectural pix and mix. It is a collection of churches, palaces, halls and gardens. And of course a cafe for hungry tourists such as myself. I happened to catch the changing of the guards, with only a few tourists trampled out the way. Great views across the Vltava from up here, but of course busy. Strolling back down past the busker playing a sax (or was he strangling a cat?)

Back down at the old town square, and like most places in Prague, there is more fantastic architecture everywhere you look. Great city to just stroll around and see where it takes you. Walking past Cafe Neustadt, I came across a large Franz Kafka statue and nearby was a small film museum.
This has some cool handpainted background art from animations to achieve parallax scrolling. Interesting to have a look around, even had some VR stuff to try out.

Near Wenceslas Square I made the mistake of jumping into a cafe for a beer, not cheap, almost UK prices :) For some reason there was pole vaulting going on at the end of the square. Looks a lot higher in person. The malls here seemed to be used like passage for indoor shopping. A curious sight inside one is a dangling statue of King Wenceslas riding his dead upside horse.

In the Alchemy Museum I made some gold, okay not really, but here was where people did try. Hidden in basements below, with the smoke being funelled out the house chimney. Scientists and dreamers toiled away tried to perfect the art of alchemy. We had a tour of the small dungeon below but my favourite bit was the entrance. The classic 'pull the right book from the bookshelf and it opens a secret door to lead you down a dungeon' trick.

Back out in the sun I headed for the Technical Museum which was like a transport museum. A large 3 storey exhibit halls takes you through the history of bikes, motorbikes and cars. But it turns out that was just one section of the Technical Museum with another 5 storey building highlighting the sciences. By the end of that I needed a drink, luckily it happens to be next door to one of the best located beer gardens in Prague. Letna Beer Garden is perched on a hill across the river from the old town. Grab a Pilsner Urquell and soak in the views!

Brno

I was planning on going to Prague from Olomouc, but apparently leaving it to the last minute for Prague weekend accommodation is a really bad idea. So a swift change of plans saw me head to Czechia second city, Brno. I had accomodation a few tram stops outside the city centre.
I had to wait a while to get checked in, in which time it absolutely lashed it down. If I had got checked in straight away I would have been soaked, so worked out okay!
I headed back into town but the rain came down again, so I ducked into the nearest place which turned out to be a trendy cafe Skog

The next day, back in the city centre, I headed up to the viewpoint from the main Cathedral. Beat the crowds, as the narrow viewpoint really only holds one person!
Good views over the city and a decent way to try and get oriented in a new city.
Back on solid ground I visited the Capuchin Crypt. Over the door lies the latin phrase 'Tu fui ego eris'(I was you; you will be me) or more liberally translated means 'you'll end up dead as well'.
Within lies the bodies of over twenty Capuchin monks, who after death were laid in the vaults with a brick pillow. Over the years the bodies have remained there, and in the cold dry air eventually mummified.

Above ground the Cabbage Market Square has more than just cabbages, it's been a market square since the 13th century. However you can also visit the labyrinth underneath, where the traders used to store their goods. Another day and back underground! Over time these cellars became connected by tunnels. Unusually everybody else on the tour was Czech, so I had an audio guide in English.

For food I went to Lokal and had some roast beef & gravy with bread dumplings and of course beer. Straight from the beer tank!

Into Czechia

Czechia being the new name for the Czech Republic.
First stop Olomouc. This small city lays in the east of the country.
After navigating from the bus station to the guesthouse in a very indirect manner. I headed into town for a look about. Much quieter than other places I had been.
The main old town easily navigable on foot. A couple of town squares are to be found with a plethora of statues. The grandest is the Holy Trinity column which UNESCO describe as"one of the most exceptional examples of the apogee of central European Baroque artistic expression". So there you have it!

I popped along to the art gallery for a gander, as interesting addition is the ability to get up to the loft and a single protruding boxroom with views over the city.

Nice gardens line one edge of the old town. Although there is plenty of roadworks being done nearby as the dig up the streets for tramworks. Hmm, sounds familiar.
Back in the park I found a science museum which had some cool exhibits, seemed they were in the middle of setting up a beer garden out front. Czechs really like their beer and starting at 30cz/£1 for a pint it's really cheap. Although later in the day I did have to step over a few people rolling around drunk in the streets!

Another main sight is St. Wenceslas Cathedral, an imposing building built high up and fortified by city walls. I took a wrong turn and had to walk round those walls.

I was getting some laundry done when I looked out and spotted a guy walking a tightrope across the river, he wasn't very good he fell off, luckily he had a safety rope!

Cat-o-veet-sa

From Krakow it was a bus to Katowice.
I had a hotel booked and the bus whizzed past it, so had to hike back, turned out to be about 20 mins from the bus station. Still it was cheap! Beside the university and not too far from town, although first impression of some of the side streets looked like they might be condemned. The city centre was much better with a large pedestrianised area with pubs and restaurants, busy for a Monday. A couple of new shopping malls, one encasing the rail station. I had a quiet first day just nosing about and relaxing, museums were closed. I purchased a train ticket that night when I eventually worked out where I could buy the ticket.

Early the next day I boarded a train, an hour later I was at Oswiecim, 20 minutes walk later I was at the gates of Auschwitz.

1.1 million people died here.

Now converted into a memorial museum, each block houses exhibits on the camp.
Detailed records, photographs of the victims, their internment & death dates.

Other rooms simply show the scale of the camp, with a large room just filled with shoes.
40,000 pairs of shoes fill the room. Collected in just 4 days.

After a few hours, it was time to visit the other section of the camp, Birkenau, This has been left as is, and you can walk around it. Occasional information, such as this is the woods where people were queued up when the chambers were full.

A taxi got my back to the train station and the next day it was off to a new country.

Kracking Krakow

Arriving in Krakow I eventually found my place, don't always trust GPS. Had to use an address, old school.
Turned out to be a rather large apartment on the top corner of a busy road & tram intersection, just round from the local metal bar.
Nice quiet spot then.
As it was nearby I headed to the National Museum, this monstrous museum had three man sections: armoury, decorative art and paintings.
Also on temporary exhibit of Leonardo Da Vinci's Lady with an Ermine - a pure stoater.
The top floor art exhibits was the most interesting going from traditional painting to modern art with some weird stuff in between.

Krakow picturesque old town is surrounded by a thin stretch of green, the local gardens.
I entered past the university and headed for the main square. This huge square serves as a focal point for pubs & restaurants.
Plenty of people milling around, drinking beer. A strange mixture of tourists, Cracovians and even the occasional Franciscan Monk (not just in Dan Brown novels).
A bride was taking photos in the square, then noticed by a group of Argentinian tourists started singing and chanting, which only drew out the drunken Brits into a singsong. I had a wander around town, going out to Kazimierz and back along the banks of the Vistula.

At night I decided to be cultural and attend a Royal Chamber Orchestra concert in St. Adalbert's Church in the main square. The acoustics were excellent, just a small space, all seats taken. Played a mix of classical and film scores.

The next day it was on the train to see the Wieliczka Salt Mine. A lengthy queue proceeded a lengthy tour.  A lot of descending of stairs, but was well lit and I didn't feel claustrophobic.
We headed down one level, and saw some equipment, apparently they only stopped using horses 15 years ago. However the real star, was the vast chambers and the intricate carvings down throughout the lifetime of just 3 miners. So a man-made wonder, rather than a natural one. Salt chandeliers, salt tiles, even had the Last Supper carved out in amazing detail.
Busy tour though, just me and 10,000 other people, which meant that the tour groups would shuffle from room to room. The guide said goodbye and we had to get back to the surface ourselves. Through the underground gift shop & restaurant of course. After a bit of a hike, joined the queue for the lift back to the top, you don't want to be at the back of this queue. "Well be out by tomorrow", somebody quipped. I got squeezed into a lift with about 8 other people, this was definitely claustrophobic but short as the lift whizzed back to the surface. Glad to be back in fresh air after 3 hours underground, however rain was threatening, so legged it down the train station and back to Krakow.

At night I had a stupendously giant 'Polish Plate' It contains potato pancakes with goulash, dumplings, pork chop, cabbage roll, krupniok, polish bigos, white sausage and roasted potato.
Didn't get close to finishing it.

Another day, and it was off to the Castle. This must be one of the most confusing tourist attraction in Europe. You had to buy separate tickets for each attraction. There are at least eight, so you can do any combination of them. This results in an extremely slow moving queue, with lots of confused tourists. Luckily the entrance ticket office is running at full capacity today with a staff of one.
Later I found out that it would have been much easier and quicker to walk beyond that ticket office and purchase it inside.
Anyway I opted for the State Rooms, Lost Wawel & Dragon's Den. The state rooms were a series of formal rooms with artworks and decorations, but nothing to rival Warsaw Royal Palace.
The Lost Wawel turned out to be more like an archaeological exhibit of the old chapel on the which the castle has been built upon. Lots of rocks.
The main gardens were the best bit alongside the Cathedral (and ticket free!). Finally the Dragon's Den was the exit path down through the caves and out to the Vistula River, it was pretty cool, probably due to the dampness.

I opted for another Polish meal, this time in a cafe, one of the strange things about the menu was that all food is listed by weight. So I had the Zurek soup (250g) followed by the Pork Chop with tatties & cabbage (350g). The pork chop was really a schnitzel, flattened out, breaded and fried.
Another giant meal which I was unable to finish! Shouldn't have order the soup, that had a boiled egg and sausage in it, so not exactly a light starter.

Winging it in Warsaw

A last minute flight booking saw me scrabbling around trying to get organise on Monday and setting my alarm for 04:45...
After getting underway I was promptly soaked as soon as I stepped out the front door by some early morning storms. I'd decided to book a bus ticket into town, as this being RyanAir dumps you in the middle of nowhere, Poland. Somewhat optimistically I opted for the 12:00 bus after a 11:35 arrival. Still we actually landed 20 minutes early and got through passport control smoothly enough. In fact I even caught the bus before, as there was a seat or two still empty they let me on.

I had rented an apartment in Warsaw for 3 days. But first I has to pick up the keys. After arriving it wasn't too far away, just has to find the right spot. GPS to the rescue, not sure how I found anything before travelling with a phone. Got the keys and jumped in a taxi, turns out the driver is a huge Newcastle fan and has visited there to see them play a few times.
Got into the apartment, inside a gated community of 4 tower blocks. I was on the ground floor,
the pipes from floor to ceiling in the middle of the room were an unexpected addition.

I headed out for a look around, the nearest sight being the Chopin Museum. Spotting a sign for lunch I jumped into the attached restaurant and very swish Tamka 43 as they were offering a 3 course lunch for around £7. Seem to be classified as modern Polish cuisine, nice soup with egg for starter, turkey main and big dunch of brownie. Then onto the Chopin museum. All very nicely presented, the museum showcases the life and times of Poland most famous pianist & composer Frederic Chopin. It has a a listening room where you can put on headphones and hear some of the various pieces, split up by genre. Etudes, ballades, nocturnes etc.

After my big late lunch I opted for a light dinner, Belgian fries caught my eyes and then a zapiekanka. That is an open toasted sandwich a bit like a pizza with various topping and sauces.

The next day I tried to go the the Copernicus museum but it was 'full' as it had a sign up saying no more visit as it had reached it's daily limit. Hmmm, okay, anyway onto the old town and the market square. The old town isn't really so old as has been rebuilt after world war II. A highlight was the spectacular Royal Palace. The rebuilding completed in 1984, was funded by a worldwide donation drive. Inside rooms are gilded, marbled or intricately decorated, adorned with paintings. An impressive sight!

Later that night I returned to the old town to take in a Chopin piano recital. In a small room the pianist started with Ballade no 1 in G minor, ending with Polonaise in E flat minor, opus 26.

Next day it was to the Warsaw Uprising Museum, with an audio guide I went round there, along with giant tour groups of hyperactive schoolchildren. Still at least I had headphones in. Inside was a B24 bomber, many rooms about the uprising and some original film footage. Up on the roof there was a viewing platform, limited to 10 people, so maybe that was why nobody else was there.

Later it was time for a spot of lunch, so I popped into a local lunch spot, seemed to be a mix of cuisine, not just Polish. I opted for the duck and a big coke, but actually I got a big duck and a coke. Which would explain why it cost more than I thought. A bit of a duck up.

Then I had a look at the tallest building in the country, the Palace of Culture and Science, which was a Russian gift to the people of Poland. There is a viewing platform if you wish to go up it, but I just headed inside and found a small museum with an exhibition about evolution, mostly dinosaurs.

Back having a look around the old town I found 'Horror House' and decided to venture inside.
Knock & wait, get told to wait outside for 15 minutes. A couple of guys come out looking a mixture of terrifed and relieved. Soon I go in then a nice woman gets you to sign one of those unsueable forms, abdicating them of your heart attack. "Do you wanna play a game?"
You enter a dark room, no not dark, pitch black, can't see anything. There are rubber strands draped down for doorways you go through them. Eventually ended up crawling in the complete darkness on all fours as the space gets tighter. Then you get a torch! But it's crap.

Next you have to solve some puzzles and unlock the doors, i.e. find the combination or the key for the lock. Meanwhile an occasional ghost will scream in your face, or grab you. After a few more rooms and scares, I got chased out by a chap with a chainsaw. Now I was like those earlier guys terrifed and relieved.

For dinner some traditional Polish food, dumplings with cheese, potatoes & onions (pierogi ruskie) with a cup of beetroot soup and some steamed veg. Ending up being loads of food and had to give up near the end.

More Morocco

Arriving at Casablanca and you soon find out it isn't a quaint little city. It's the economic powerhouse of Morocco, with the city & suburbs housing a reputed 8 million folk. One of these cities, where drivers use their horns for driving!

I headed out to see the must-see sight, Hassan 2 Mosque. It's huge with a minaret over 200m high, capable of holding over 25,000 people inside and a further 80,000 outside. Amazingly it was built in just seven years, albeit by thousand of workers. A tour inside and you can see the fine intricate details. Nearby the waves crash on the breakwater, and even a couple of people surfing in the choppy waves. A hop on the train takes me up to the capital of Morocco, Rabat.

Rabat seems slightly quieter and more relaxed, with wide tree lined avenues where I am staying, near the Archaeology Museum. I pop in there for a nosy, it's small and has some neat carved items taken from nearby Volubilis. I head to the exotically named Kasbah of the Udayas, a former Barbary pirate stronghold! Well, now it's a tidy blue-painted village. Small lanes wind around, up and down the residential area. Good views over the sea, and nearby Sale. A nice garden houses many plants, some with medicinal uses, and some fruits such as oranges & bananas. Heading back into town, I walked through some markets, some selling tourist tat, others just general household goods.

Another short train journey and I arrive in Meknes. I stay at a beautiful riad, which was once used by a branch of royalty (apparently!) and hoarded some treasures, hence the metre thick walls! I'm in the middle of the medina, and get nice views across Meknes from the rooftop. Back down on the ground a couple of minutes away, tucked behind a door lies a small former school. Although not nearly as grand as Medersa Ben Youssef in Marrakesh, it has a well decorated courtyard. A walk through the medina, bring you out at the large El-Hadmin square, flanked by the Bab Mansour gate. I had a walk around town and find a tasty rotisserie chicken joint for dinner, where I get a plate with everything on it!

Next day it was a petit taxi to the grand taxi stand, where I shared a taxi with a couple of other backpackers to get to Moulay Idriss. A holy town, with Moulay Idriss bringing Islam to Morocco. Six pilgrimages here is equivalent to one Haj to Mecca. The town itself is perched on a hilltop and nearby has great views of the town itself and down to the nearby Volubilis, which I walked down to. However I must of taken the wrong road, whilst ending up at Volubilis, unfortunately there was a large fence in the way. Not sure where the proper entrance was, I just ducked under a gap. I had a good look around the partially excavated sight. The sun was starting to dip, giving a golden hue to the pillars, it was nice and quiet, until a busload of tourists turned up for sunset. After taking some pictures, I headed out giving my 10 dirhams admission price to a bemused guard. I walked back up the hill just as it was getting dark. I later headed into a local restaurant to have some overpriced and very chewy beef brochettes. The next day I crammed into the taxi with a driver and 5 other passengers. Definitely a tight squeeze, but luckily the door locks were adequate. Back in Meknes, I jumped on the train for another short hop over to my final destination, Fez.

The last of the four imperial cities and the hardest city to navigate! It is a huge warren of interconnected pathways weaving around in no discernible order or direction. They say is is unchanged in a thousand years, but one obvious addition is that of satellite dishes everywhere! I set out to get lost and succeeded. I did manage to get up to the Borj Nord Arms Museum. It was a decent museum, but the English audio guide was amusingly bad. Great views back out over the medina from up on the hill here. Back down in the city itself, I has a look at the tanneries, which color the skin. I enter and am given a sprig of mint to hold to your nose to mask the smells. They store the animal skins in pigeon droppings for a while before dyeing it. As you can imagine it's not a place you really want to linger to long. I  ended up getting dragged into the dreaded carpet shop, which I managed to extricate myself from. I stopped off at Cafe Clock for one of their famous CamelBurgers, which was surprisingly good! Another sight I manage to eventually find was the faded grandeur of Palais Glaoui. This crumbling palace had hints at it's former glory. Quite interesting with a tour from the guide, although she didn't speak a whole lot of English.

After Fez, I retraced my path, following the railway line back to Marrakesh via Casablanca. A few more days in Fez, I went to the Menara, which looked better in the postcard. Although in the postcard, you don't hear the music they were playing. Then I found a couple of palaces which I had failed to find first time round! They first was more run down, the second however had more surviving. With mosaic walls, intricately painted doors and wooden carved ceilings. One final meal, I opted for the 'royal' menu at a restaurant where I got six starters, then a huge main with chicken, beef & meat(?) skewers over couscous with few different sauces & chutneys. Then just the flight back to Glasgow which was fine except for one crazy woman who decided to suddenly start screaming at the top of her voice at the airport gate.

El Jadida

I went to the bus station to buy a ticket to El Jadida, but the bus only went as far as Safi so I went there. I shouldn't have bothered.

Safi is an industrial town with a large sardine processing facility near the middle of the city.
After much searching more a place to eat I did have a nice pastilla at a snack shop with an impossible small spiral staircase. However, one night was enough, so I headed up along the coast to El Jadida. This has a Unesco Heritage site of the traditional Portuguese City near the sea. However lots of restoration work at the moment.

I stopped off at Cafe Do Mar for a gallete more French influence at work. One place of interest was the cistern, which is below ground illuminated by a single shaft of light. The light reflects around the surface of the water resulting in a very atmospheric place. This setting was used in Orson Welles' Othello. Later at night, a much better choice of places to eat. I headed for a local fish restaurant, Al Bahri, for a good whole fried fish.

A short trip the next day I was in Casablanca.

ATVing

While in Essaouira I decided to have a go on an ATV. I signed up for a 3 hour tour in the afternoon. At 14:00, after getting dressed in a wind jacket, gloves and dapper scarf, we got underway. A quick intro to the controls and once around the block, then a short journey along the road. Soon we turned off the road and on to the beach. After a few manoeuvres, the speed limiter was removed and we were zooming along the beach. You have to follow the lead driver tracks, as he knows what he's doing!

Started curving up sand dunes and back down. Then steeper ones. Eventually out in to some proper desert style sand dunes. While the lead in driving, he also manages to take photos. I only got stuck a couple of times! Just have to reverse and then zoom up the dune again. A couple of downhill ones, which you can just use the brake, but it the ATV will slide down the sand anyway!

We headed out to an outlook over a surfing beach, to stop for some water and a snack. A quiet beach with a few folks surfing the waves on a rocky beach. The area further south near Agadir might not be so quiet in a few years, as a big development further south at Taghazout Bay plans many new hotels.

After a break, we headed back through dunes, scrubs and trees, then finally back along the beach. A very enjoyable time with great scenery, only spoiled by the amount of plastic rubbish washed up onto the shores.

Agadir & Essaouria

In Agadir the wide beach stretches for miles in a gentle crescent. As the Atlantic laps the sand, the damp flat areas are turned into football pitches by the locals. Although footy on the beach isn't the only option, as I passed a city stadium which I wondered into for a brief look. Lots of organised football with 4 or 5 games going on. Well I say organised, but after being under a spell of pressure one team countered attack, only for the move to stop as the attacked threw up his hands in despair. A kid from a different team had nicked the opposition goalposts.

The beachfront has a new promenade for the locals and tourists to stroll down. At one end resorts, the other the marina. Around the marine are dotted some fancy restaraunts. I popped into a fancy one on a whim, somewhat underdressed in a t-shirt. You know it is fancy when your spuds come in a smear on the plate! And you get what I imagine was an amuse bouche (I don't remember ordering this!). Here is le menu.

One of the things which was recommended to try was a Morrocan Hamman, so I booked one. I got picked up from my guesthouse and whisked away. After stripping down to your pants you get put in a steam room ala Turkish bath. Soon a woman comes in and slathers Argon oil on you. Then leaves you to sweat. Later you get rinsed off and out comes the brillo pad. Okay, it wasn't a brillo pad, it just felt like it. This gets rid of the dead skin cells (by removing a layer of skin, I suspect!). Then some buckets of water over the head and shampooed. Then you get a normal massage afterwards. Interesting as a bit of a different experience, but I don't think I'll be in a hurry to repeat the brillo pads!

Next up was Essaouira. I jumped on the Supratour bus, they have assigned seats and I ended up right behind the driver, not sure I like that seat! Traffic is actually quite light, and well behaved. Although it seems like traffic coming on to the roundabout has right of way. Of course they drive on the wrong side of the road here. After finding my guesthouse down a cul de sac, I headed out to the medina for a nosy. Much more managable size compared to Marrakesh. Nearby the medina itself is the fishing port. Around 15:00 the boats return along with their catches and loads of seagulls! Certainly an interesting time to have a stroll, as people bustle around and seagulls are whirring through the air. Also the ramparts nearby have some cannons, as it used to be a military fort with the much cooler name of Mogador! Just off the coast lies Ile Mogador. A small island now a nature preserve with resident falcons. Apparently it was used as a backdrop for Game of Thrones, with the guesthouse owner getting a part as an extra!

Rock the Kasbah.

Rock the Kasbah. If by rock you mean get lost, then yes I did rock the kasbah. Repeatedly! But back a day, a last minute flight deal meant I was on my way to Marrakesh. Only a 4 hour flight from Glasgow. I touched down around 16:00 and immigration was straight forward. I had arrange to get picked up from the airport. So I met the driver and he shuffled me towards the car, I thought I was going to have to drive as he pointed at the driver seat, but of course it is left side drive here, so I was thankfully in the passenger seat! 

The airport isn't to far from the old town (the medina) where I has booked my riad (hotel with rooms set around a courtyard). Still we entered the old walled town and the driver parked. Now we had to walk. Throught the busy market, then down an alleyway, getting quiter, down another dark alleyway. Uhhh, we are we going? Arrived at a rather non-descript door and then when you enter it was a very nicely decorated patio, with fountains and rose petals littered about. I had a seat and a very tasty pot of sugary mint tea was presented (Morocco's national drink). 

The French owner turned up shortly, just as well, as my Arabic is non-existent so about on par with my French, which is what the staff were speaking. :) Handily the owner spoke English fine. She gave me a map and some info about what to see, so after getting settled I headed out to Jamma El Fna to see what was happening. That's Marrakesh main square not Ras Al Ghul's home. 

Lots of number food stalls, with people trying to drag you in, if you so much look at a menu. I settled on No. 1 stall, I doubt there is much difference between most of them, except a few only selling some food. I settled on a chicken tagine, and got some bread & sauce (one tomato based, one spicy). After dinner I tried to return to the hotel, but got hopelessly lost, eventually made it back thanks mostly to google maps.

The next morning I head off to Majorelle Gardens. A tranquil garden by a French Painter, Monsieur Majorele. Inside was a small memorial to Yves Saint Lauren. Entrance to the gardens and the museum was 100 dirhams. There was a small museum about the Berber folk of Morocco, which was also worth a visit. I went off on a wonder down a main road, having a nosy around. After that I jumped in a local petit taxi, heading down to the other end of the medina. 10-15 min ride cost 20 Dirhams. Not much more than a pound! Although not always the case, depends on what price you can agree. I managed to jump into the taxi as he was letting somebody else off.

Then I was getting lost in the kasbah. Eventually I manage to find the Saadian Tombs (I had walked straight past the huge building). Kinda empty inside, but a couple of places where the intricate decorations could be seen. Worth a quick stop and only 10 dirhams, but it looked like there were tidying it up, so expect the price to jump!

I tried to find the palace, but ended up in some sort of industrial area! I abandoned that idea and found a cafe for a chicken shwarma (plus frites!)

Next up was Ben Youssef Madrasa. A large Islamic college.Not much in the rooms, but central courtyard was certainly impressive, next door was the Marrakesh museum. Some interesting things, such as a massive chandeliery-thingy, okay I don't know what it was!

At night time I returned to Jamma El Fna for a spot of music. During the day the snakecharmers are there, but as night falls a ragtag cluster of musicians led by a mullet haired banjo singer (decked out in an all red Nike tracksuit) entertained locals who perch on plastic stools giving a a dirham or two for the performance.

Also on show was a crazy little guy, who I watched for 5 mintues and couldn't make head nor tail off. Just a crazy shirtless shouting guy with a crowd watching him! At least I think that was a show...

The next day if was off to Agadir for a spot of gentle R & R at the beach.  A nice spot with a looong wide beach and promenade made for dusk strolling. Loads of restaurants nearby, an easy place to chill out. They even sell beer! I popped into to an 'Irish' Bar named 'La Truite' for a pint of Pression and a plate of olives. Just like Dublin!

Jungle Flying

I finally took the plunge and decided to book a  in Chiang Mai.
I was picked up in a car at the horrendous time of 06:40, then the driver went round in circles for a bit till he found another couple of people. Then drove to the highway and swapped from car to van. We proceed quickly down past Doi Saket and beyond, then turn right onto a narrow road. A long winding road uphill, twists and turns, guess this is part of the adventure!

We arrive at the office and grab a helmet, harness and a "hi-tec nanotechnology braking device" (a stick). Once everybody is harnessed up, we march through the village to the first station. Not much hanging about, there are 34 stations to travel through. From the small platform, you are quickly hooked onto the zipline, and safety attach. Told to lean back and sit down, and then "Go!", you zip down the line and the other guide at the receiving end helps you, unhooks you and attaches the safety to a line running round the tree trunk. Then you shuffle round the trunk ready for the next one.

Takes a bit of getting used to, I keep spinning round and arriving backwards which is awkward, not too much you can do, try and wave your arms or legs was the suggestion, but I think I'll just keep my white knuckles clenching the rope.

Then comes the longer ones! We need to use the stick by pulling down on the line using the friction too slow down. Somehow I ended up first, but spun round going backwards, so can't see the platform. Then guy shouted "BRAKE" as previously instructed, then something else, which turned out to be "HARDER!", so I kinda bounced off him. Just as well for the helmets. Later he was saying you need to use your brake, I'm not ABS! There is only 2 sections were you need to use the brake, the second one went much better, easier when you are going forward.

Just before a quick snack break, we slide along another zipline, this one had the best view I would say, as you are in a break in the jungle, the photo on the jungle flight website shows it well, it does actually look like this!

On one of the section we got hooked on the back for a superman style ride, nothing to hang on with your hands, and the worst part is you need to lean into the void to leave the platform.

Another 12 more or so zipline and 1 more abseil, hooked on the back. Then back on terra firma! The guide at the end decided to go head first.

Ayutthaya, Korat & Khon Kaen

I decided to head down to Ayutthaya at the last minute. I nipped over to the station to pick up a train ticket, and found out the usual 9pm sleeper train has been cancelled. So I ended up getting one at 17.30. Enough time to go back and pack a bag, before u-turning back to the station.

The train rumbles along slowly, after Lampang the train attendant comes round and makes your bed. Try to snooze, but didn't sleep much. Trundled into Ayutthaya early morning, long time on the train. I'd booked a room near the historical park, didn't look that far away. One songtaew later I arrived. I headed up to try and find a reasonable bicycle to rent, but nothing like a mountain bike here. Ended up with an old clunker, still at least it had straight handerbars and not these horrible U shaped ones that are common.

Ayutthaya was a Kindgom between 1350 to 1767, a busy trading port during these times, situated on the Chao Praya river, which flows South through Bangkok. Spread over several square miles, the remnants of the Kingdom are still here to see. Grand temples, some ruined, some rebuilt. I pedalled around the sights, such as the oft-photographed Buddha head in tree. Also Wat Phra Si Sanphet a large complex strewn across the grounds, which was formerly the old palace compound.

Further afield, I visited some temples across the river. Including one chedi standing grandly, now situated on a flat rice field. Seems to take a longer route than necessary and ended up on a very dusty road that presumbably is being resurfaced. Eventually arrived at the impressive Wat Chaiwatthanaram, but unfortunately closed for restoration to could only look from afar. That night I ate at a the busy Sai Thong riverside restaurant, a strange
duck with random bits dish.

Next day I cycled over to Wat Phanan Choeng, with thousands of Buddhas sitting in niches, and a huge central figure. When I was visiting there was a ceremony, where the cloth is brought over peoples head.

Back in town there was a huge firework display for the King's Birthday, causing traffic mayhem by blocking off one of the central roads. I returned my bike and walked back to the guesthouse, further than I thought!

Next day it was on the train into Isaan, the North-East region of Thailand. I got on the train, and found my seat squashed in beside a family. After a few hours, I stretched my legs, and looked out the windows. At the front of the train, you can actually look through the font window, as the driver is situated of to the left rather than right in the middle. A local guy with "Police" written across the back of his jacket is taking large gulps of whisky.

Eventually arrive in Korat, a small provinicial town. I thought it would be a bit bigger, not a whole lot here. Anyway I try some local food, phad mee korat, similar to phad thai. After that I find a barber and get a haircut and shave for 60 baht.I tried a busy Thai restaurant for dinner, and got a very bland dish, must have been specially prepared for the Farang.

Next day it was off to the bus station, as I only had a small bag, I jumped on a motorbike taxi, a quick way of getting around. My timing was good as I just caught the soon to depart bus to Khon Kaen. Actually it didn't leave when full, it left a bit after that. 3 or 5 hours later I arrived. I decided to just walk towards the large Pullman hotel, guessing that around there would a good location. I happened upon a guesthouse and got a nice room, if you're a hobbit. Doorway was about 5 ft tall!

Khon Kaen seems to be more lively than Korat, new buildings sprouting up. A big fancy Central Plaza mall, and lots of busy pubs. That night I ventured into Tawan Daeng for some Isaan music, accompanied by the locals strutting their dances moves, in a very thai style.

The only problem with coming out here, is the long journey back to Chiang Mai, about 12 hours. I headed to the bus station, only to find out only have night buses, so I bought a ticket for 7pm that night. I headed into the mall to pass some time and ended up watching Super Salary Man, a Thai drama about office life. Well, it passed the time!

At about 7.15, the guy next to me went to sleep and didn't move for the next 12 hours. The bus decided to occasionaly do a random roadside stop, people were on their phones, some banging about with the baggage hold, and then after 30 minutes on out way again. Then stop again, at a National Park in the mountains, the thermometer outside read just 1C. Wait around here for a bit with the bus staff shivering, then eventually get back on the road. Mystery stops.

Finally get back into Chiang Mai around 7AM, I jump into a songthaew and grab some breakfast before heading back home, knackered.

Yi Peng 2012

Chiang Rai Bike Trip

I decided to do another bike trip. So I headed down to the bike shop to buy a rack, and it was closed. Good start! Next morning, I headed back and much faffing about with the rack, the mechanic couldn't get it to fit. The boss was coming in the afternoon, so I came back and finally got it fitted.

The next morning, bright & early I was off. A familiar ride alongside the canal, heading North out of Chiang Mai. Then merge onto the busier road upto Mae Rim. Then continue North into more unfamliar territory. Still a flat road, continuing past the turn off for the very hilly 1095 road to Pai. I stopped for some breakfast of Chicken Rice, making good time. After rehydrating, just follow the 107 road North. Then I arrived in Chiang Dao town. I then turned towards Chiang Dao mountain for about another 7kms, on a gently slope down into a shallow valley nestling at the edge of the mountain. Here I stayed at  in a little bungalow almost overshadow by the brooding limestone mountain (2186m). Todays ride is 78km.

After a shower, I headed out and turned right towards the Wat Pho Ploy monastery on the hill. One of these secluded area where a famous monk has mediated. Now a large temple, with a lot of stairs. After 500 odd stairs I reached the top, nice views around as you would imagine. The main hall, is actually set into an open side cave with a rock roof and buddha images everywhere. I headed back down to the main street, about a mile further down to Chiang Dao Cave.

Here you can enter the Chiang Dao cave system. The first main area is lit by electricity, and a few guide await to take you further inside, guided by lantern, for a fee of course.

A few unfortunate souls are rumoured to have been trapped & lost inside the cave in the past, so keep close to the guide! Yes, it's dark, but with the light you can make some formations which are said to resemble various animals, such as elphants, some require more imagination than others. To get between chambers, some crawling required, not toooo tight, but not for the claustraphobic or fatties. After the tour happy enough to get back out into the daylight. I head back up the road stopping off at Chiang DaoNest 2 to sample a late lunch.

I had a pretty good pumpkiny salady thing, with a "passionade" drink. Then back to the bungalow and try and stay awake at least till after dinner. I just had some sweet & sour pork at the guesthouse and a early night causing I was shattered!

Off early again the next morning, crawling back up from the Chiang Dao side road onto the main highway. Low lying mist shrouds the limestone outcrops in the distance, the road rolls gently down smooth tarmac. Great place for cycling. Until the hills. There is a mountain range between here and Chai Prakan. After some gentle winding, I stopped for breakfast. Some noodles with fish balls, picked the right  place to stop as soon the roads winds up and down, snakes around, requires a fair bit of climbing.  I hadn't done much climbing on the bike and the added weight of the luggage meant a fair bit of resting on the big climbs. I find a roadside shelter and take a break, guzzling down some water. After a rest I continue on my way and find the summit. From here it is a zipping ride down the other side into the next valley, Chai Prakan, where the road flattens out. Passing a gruesome road safety sign of someone chopped in two, I cycle carefully onwards.

Another drink is needed and a refill of the water bottle, but the road remains flat into the provincial town of Fang. After a ride of 85km I find the Phumanee Hotel, run by Lahu folk.

I find a market, and have some Stewed Pork, but it comes with a lot of fat and skin, but the meat is tasty. I nosy around town, some Chinese temples on the edge of town. But the local dogs know outsiders, and soon half the dogs in town are barking. I don't want to get bitten by a dog in Fang! At night a French tour group had arrived in the hotel, and are singing some French songs which are written on the wall, strange. I have a Lahu curry, a bit like Tom Kha Gai but with some potato thrown in. After dinner I head out in the seach of some pinapple and get caught in the rain. But must have pineapple.

The next morning I actually have breakfast before starting biking, as it's an easy ride today. Just 25km along a flat road into the scenic village of Tha Ton. Arriving at the rideside I locked up my bike and headed up the hill nearby, to have a look at the temple. Up top the temple had a swarm of gazillion bees attached to the naga heads, high above thankfully. Nice view out over the village as the river winds and twists it's way East to Chiang Rai. Back down I grabbed some lunch before the boat ride. With bike attached to the side near the front of the long-tail boat, I was off along with another 5 passengers. We zip along smoothly passing through sloping valleys, some jungle, some growing coffee. We stop off and a few disembark at a hot springs. Very hot, I dipped my finger in for a second an that was enough! A few hours later we arrive in Chiang Rai. By the time I find a guesthouse it is late afternoon. I decide to replenish my energy with a steak for a small local diner. Not bad at all for the price, except it was served on a cold plate. Some rain mean not much happening at  the night market.

The next couple of days I stay off the bike and rest. I head about 10km north on the local bus to Baan Dam (Black House). A bizarre artist's version of a temple. I arrive dead on 12, as it closes for an hour. I find a small shop and have some MaMa noodles (the local equivalent of a Pot Noodle). Once it reopens tourists flood in. The first "temple" is a huge hall filled with looong tables, laid end to end, several large snake skins. In the corner carved  wooden tressels, with something resembling dried bats! Giant chairs adorned with white skulls and black buffalo horns complete the macabre feel. Outside more building with more skulls, guns, bones and dark wood. Nearby a horse grazes. All very odd. I head back into town and the rain starts up again.

The next day another bus, 17km south of Chiang Rai. It takes a while to get underway, but not a long ride. I jump off at the junction for a good look at Wat Rong Khun aka The White Temple. This is in sharp contrast to yesterdays viewing, an incredible ornate beautiful white temple glistening in the sunlight. As I walk in to the grounds I notice the head and torso of a predator half sunk into the ground. Well okay that's a bit weird. As you pass over a bridge leading to the entrance, you walk past hundreds of outstreatched sculpted hands. Inside the main temple, the Buddha sits serenely facing the back wall. And the back wall is not the usual temple wall. This is covered with icons from popular culture, ranging from Superman and Batman to Jigsaw and Pinhead. Angry birds has made it in, surely a recent addition.

After the white temple I flag down a songtaew heading back into town, it's full so I have to hand on the back. It starts to rain, so I head for the new Central Mall. Another huge mall for Thailand, but once you're inside you could be anywhere.

The next day I get back on my bike, this time heading south, at least it should even up my suntan :) From Chiang Rai, it is a long, long hilly ride back to Chiang Mai. I start off down the busy road 1, the superhighway which will basically take you to Singapore. Soon I turn off for Chiang Mai, a smaller road. I remember a nice resort so try to make it there for breakfast. I probably should of eaten sooner, as it was over 40k on an empty stomach and those hills were getting harder. Anyway I arrived at Charin Garden, a scenic spot overlooking the river. I settle down for a plate of chicken fried rice topped with an egg, washed down with a couple of glasses of water, followed by chunk of apple pie and a latte. This cycling sure makes you hungry. Onwards through Mae Suai, and down to Wiang Pa Pao. I stopped off at a roadside shrine for King Naresuan with a couple of giant elephant statues, a temple sit further back. I go have a closer look. Chicken statues everywhere. After 95km I stop for the day.

Next day I pass another couple of tour cyclists they are heading onto Vietnam, Land of the Motorbike, good luck! I have cycled this section in the other direction and handily remembered where the big descent was. Of course it is now a big ascent. At the bottom is the entrance to Khun Chae National Park. I fuel up on some raisins and a snickers bar.

One big straight climb and I make it to the top. From here it is great riding and you zip most of the way down for the next 20km! A few final hills and I roll into Doi Saket, feeling hungry but only another 20km till I'm back in Chiang Mai, so I push on. Running on fumes I make it back home to guzzle some cold water, have a much needed shower and head down to Salad Concept for a big lunch. All in all, a successful little bike tour.

Photos