I grabbed a room near the bus-stop. Yangshuo is only an hour or so ride from Guilin. The next day I went on a bike-tour, it was a scorcher. I even bought one of these big Chinese hats to stop my brain from cooking. The guide led me down a few narrow lanes and she was right I would have got lost if I went myself! It was pleasant if too hot to ride through this strange scenery. Up ahead was Moon Hill a bizarre structure where a circular hole appears in the peak. Nearby was Buddha Water Cave and I went inside for a look. Also a couple of small dogs came along to be nosy. A guide showed us round the interior. Stalactites, malacites and all things strange! Time had shaped the cave walls into weird shapes, like a curtain of rock. I tried to take some pictures but it was dark and couldn抰 see much on the screen, later I realised I still had the camera lens cover on. Doh!
A professional photographer was lurking in the caves popping up to snap us now and again. An annoying little boy proclaimed to his mother that he was going to be famous, everybody loved him as he kept getting his photograph taken. His mum had to explain that the photographer was going to try and sell them the pictures later.
Afterwards a bit more of ride around and then back, too hot! Time for some ice-cream. At dinner I headed off to a caf?and had some nice duck. Not very exotic compared to the other things at the back of the menu but nice. If you were feeling adventurous you could buy a snake. 揚lay with it, photograph it, watch it being killed. Eat the flesh, drink the blood and keep the skin!?Hmmm. Think I抣l stick with the duck.
Now I had a lot of travelling ahead. But I just went slow 慶os I抦 lazy. Back to Guilin and then down to Nanning, before hopping on the sleeper train to Kunming. Bit of confusion regarding the ticket. The ticket man said 搉o have?and so I said how about the day after tomorrow and then some confused occurred eventually I ended up with a ticket for tomorrow, strange I thought. I just had a seat instead of a bed for the 14 hour ride, groan. Anyway eventually into Kunming and fall asleep there! The next day I had a look about, another big modern city. I tried to goto the temple I came across a ticket barrier was quite sure what it was (temple or park or both?), I ended up in the zoo as it happens. Lots of peacocks here, no pandas (except for the cuddly stuffed variety). Apparently it was one of the top ten zoos in China, and it was less than impressive. Animals like leopards in tiny cages. Onto the 1000 year old Yuantong temple. Lots of smoke and incense here, also seemed to be handed out some food which was very popular! Don抰 know if this is a daily occurrence or not. Kunming is famous for across the bridge noodles, where you get a few plates of raw food, the noodles and a boiling hot broth. When the broth arrives you throw in the egg, ham, bacon, chicken bits, green veg, pickle and noodles, give it a stir and eat. Quite tasty actually! Next stop Dali.
Saturday, August 05, 2006
Guilin
Arriving in Guilin, the touts descended and I embarked upon the customary hotel finding mission. After going up 6 flights of stairs with my backpack I found a room, and upon returning to reception and some commotion. Eventually I was handed a phone with someone who spoke a little English and I was told I couldn抰 stay there! It was for Chinese tourists. I said I was a tourist in China, but to no avail. Yeah thanks for that, you couldn抰 of told me that before seeing the room? Anyway I found somewhere to stay. I had hardly slept a wink on the train with the air-con blasting in my face all night, I now had a cold. I dumped my bag and went out for a look about, and shortly afterwards decided to go back to bed!
It rained for three days at the remnants of a typhoon reached Guilin. When the sun came out it was quite a pleasant green city with a few parks and rivers. Lots of electric bikes, silently whizzing along the roads (and pavements). In reaching a bridge a pagoda or two was revealed to be hiding round the bend of the river. Underneath the bridge in the cool shade a group of woman were dancercising. In a park some of the structures seemed a bit tacky such as 揟he Crystal Bridge?made out of clear plastic, still the Chinese tourists seem to lap it up, cameras snapping away.
Back in the city, there is a pedestrianised walkway containing lots of cafes and shops, and fast food joints. A bit further on, in the North of the city lies Solitary Peak a limestone karst thrusting up 150m. At the bottom of the peak is a few caves and some chinese writing carved into the rock. After a some steep stairs a good view of Guilin can be had from the top. You can see more of the limestone outcrops in the distance and that would be like my next stop Yangshuo.
It rained for three days at the remnants of a typhoon reached Guilin. When the sun came out it was quite a pleasant green city with a few parks and rivers. Lots of electric bikes, silently whizzing along the roads (and pavements). In reaching a bridge a pagoda or two was revealed to be hiding round the bend of the river. Underneath the bridge in the cool shade a group of woman were dancercising. In a park some of the structures seemed a bit tacky such as 揟he Crystal Bridge?made out of clear plastic, still the Chinese tourists seem to lap it up, cameras snapping away.
Back in the city, there is a pedestrianised walkway containing lots of cafes and shops, and fast food joints. A bit further on, in the North of the city lies Solitary Peak a limestone karst thrusting up 150m. At the bottom of the peak is a few caves and some chinese writing carved into the rock. After a some steep stairs a good view of Guilin can be had from the top. You can see more of the limestone outcrops in the distance and that would be like my next stop Yangshuo.
Sunday, July 30, 2006
Guangzhou
I arrived in Guangzhou from Hong Kong and went through customs again in the train station. Then some tourism guy started chatting to me about my hotel and how it had closed. Hmmm. I just ignored him and hopped on the subway. Quite far to my destination Shaiman Island. I came out the subway and staggered around trying to get oriented, eventually dragged the guide book from the bag and pointed at the Chinese characters, and the I was pointed in the right direction. I asked somebody else again and she look terrified at the prospect of the "foreign devil" talking to her!
This island use to be a trading post for the British at one point and has a few old colonial buildings. It is a bit quieter than the rest of the town, with less traffic and more trees. There is an adoption centre on the island and this means a lot of foreigners, mostly Americans, pushing prams about with Chinese kids. Lots of signs up in the shops "Free Baby Stroller!" etc.
I headed into town for a look about, I found a large park and had a stroll through that. It was bigger than I thought, and I popped out a different exit. At least there are signs pointing towards the metro. A good system for getting about. I had a look at the train station and decided I would get my tickets from the travel agent instead of trying here. I wasn't expecting the travel agents to be so busy, it was mobbed everybody is going on holiday it seems. Eventually I managed to procure a sleeping ticket to Guilin.
That night I had a look around the waterfront. This is lit up with lots of neon, not quite Hong Kong style however. Lots of old(ish) people doing ballroom dancing on the esplanade. Or skating, cycling, exercising or walking backwards (I think, they think that it's good for you). I jumped on the ferry and headed across to the other side, quite a lot of bars over here, but not that busy on a Tuesday. A few bands playing some tunes, not very good though. There is even the occasional country yokel type gawping at the female singer.
This island use to be a trading post for the British at one point and has a few old colonial buildings. It is a bit quieter than the rest of the town, with less traffic and more trees. There is an adoption centre on the island and this means a lot of foreigners, mostly Americans, pushing prams about with Chinese kids. Lots of signs up in the shops "Free Baby Stroller!" etc.
I headed into town for a look about, I found a large park and had a stroll through that. It was bigger than I thought, and I popped out a different exit. At least there are signs pointing towards the metro. A good system for getting about. I had a look at the train station and decided I would get my tickets from the travel agent instead of trying here. I wasn't expecting the travel agents to be so busy, it was mobbed everybody is going on holiday it seems. Eventually I managed to procure a sleeping ticket to Guilin.
That night I had a look around the waterfront. This is lit up with lots of neon, not quite Hong Kong style however. Lots of old(ish) people doing ballroom dancing on the esplanade. Or skating, cycling, exercising or walking backwards (I think, they think that it's good for you). I jumped on the ferry and headed across to the other side, quite a lot of bars over here, but not that busy on a Tuesday. A few bands playing some tunes, not very good though. There is even the occasional country yokel type gawping at the female singer.
Friday, July 21, 2006
Hong Kong Phooey
Just an hour boat ride from Macau, and I was in Hong Kong. The metro links the ferry habour to Kowloon, an island south of Hong Kong island. After asking for directions to the metro I ventured forth. I had been told to go down the escalators at Starbucks. After wandering around, my eyes spotted a "OF" between two pillars. The advertising people will be glad that I instantly recognised it as the OF from STARBUCKS COFFEE, freaky!
I popped out at Tsim Sha Tsui (TST) stop, a short walk and I arrived at Mirador Mansion where my guesthouse should be located. I entered the building as a tout asked "Room? Come!" and charged off expecting me to follow, I lingered right and there was a lift, and even a business directory thing on the wall naming my guesthouse. So up to the twelfth floor and there was Cosmic Guesthouse sure enough. Very small room for the price, but it is Hong Kong!
A few blocks down in Chungking Mansion, full of dodgy looking geezers hanging about occasionally trying to sell fake watches etc.
I headed out for a look around. I headed north into the Kowloon harbour area. Here a couple of museums and the waterfront are located. I jumped on the Star Ferry, which goes between Kowloon and Hong Kong proper all day, just a short ride and cheap, only 2.2$HK. Seems like more of a business district over here. Lots of skywalks linking everthing together. I got lost in some giant shopping malls, and had a giant bowl of Laska, which wasn't as good as in Singapore!
Another day I went up to Victoria's Peak on the tram. The tram ride is very steep! But a great view when you get to the top. I got there around dusk, when all the neon starts coming on. Back down at the riverside in Kowloon I saw the 8 o'clock light show, where the lights on the building flash on and off and change colour. Strange seing it on a skyscraper scale.
The World Cup Final was on while I was in Hong Kong so I went over to Lan Kwai Fong to watch the match. Most of the places were packed, with table reservations in place as long as you spent 200$HK/person. I stood outside! It was still really humid at 02:00 and there wasn't that much atmosphere. By halftime I was falling asleep so I went back and watched the rest from the airconditioned comfort of my bed.
Then it was onto mainland China. I decided to jump on the train to Guanzhuo (pronounced more like gwanjo), and escape the traffic. After a bit of hustle and bustle at the train station (okay pushing and shoving!) just to get inside. All luggage is put throw an x-ray machine, although I didn't see anybody actually watching the monitor, but the actual train ride whizzed along smoothly.
I popped out at Tsim Sha Tsui (TST) stop, a short walk and I arrived at Mirador Mansion where my guesthouse should be located. I entered the building as a tout asked "Room? Come!" and charged off expecting me to follow, I lingered right and there was a lift, and even a business directory thing on the wall naming my guesthouse. So up to the twelfth floor and there was Cosmic Guesthouse sure enough. Very small room for the price, but it is Hong Kong!
A few blocks down in Chungking Mansion, full of dodgy looking geezers hanging about occasionally trying to sell fake watches etc.
I headed out for a look around. I headed north into the Kowloon harbour area. Here a couple of museums and the waterfront are located. I jumped on the Star Ferry, which goes between Kowloon and Hong Kong proper all day, just a short ride and cheap, only 2.2$HK. Seems like more of a business district over here. Lots of skywalks linking everthing together. I got lost in some giant shopping malls, and had a giant bowl of Laska, which wasn't as good as in Singapore!
Another day I went up to Victoria's Peak on the tram. The tram ride is very steep! But a great view when you get to the top. I got there around dusk, when all the neon starts coming on. Back down at the riverside in Kowloon I saw the 8 o'clock light show, where the lights on the building flash on and off and change colour. Strange seing it on a skyscraper scale.
The World Cup Final was on while I was in Hong Kong so I went over to Lan Kwai Fong to watch the match. Most of the places were packed, with table reservations in place as long as you spent 200$HK/person. I stood outside! It was still really humid at 02:00 and there wasn't that much atmosphere. By halftime I was falling asleep so I went back and watched the rest from the airconditioned comfort of my bed.
Then it was onto mainland China. I decided to jump on the train to Guanzhuo (pronounced more like gwanjo), and escape the traffic. After a bit of hustle and bustle at the train station (okay pushing and shoving!) just to get inside. All luggage is put throw an x-ray machine, although I didn't see anybody actually watching the monitor, but the actual train ride whizzed along smoothly.
Thursday, July 13, 2006
Macau
After my passport was heavily scrutinised at customs I was eventually let in. After checking every stamp in my passport, they stamped me in with an expiry date of 01/01/2007. I was only staying three days. When I came out, my luggage has disappeared from the conveyor belt as everybody else had left. Luckily one of the staff had picked if off and I collected it. Then change money, and find the bus. Then get some coins for the bus. Then get lost on the bus ride. I was jammed up the back with my backpack. One of the locals asked me where I was going, it happened a couple of people were going the same way, so I tagged along, jumping on a local bus and getting towards the street I wanted. I found my hotel, hiding in a tea-shop. Just a lift, like an oven, which only stopped at the 3rd floor. Then opens out to a hotel.
So once I got settled it was getting dark, so I popped out for a look around. First impressions is that there is a lot of beef jerky everywhere. Seems to be shops selling all sorts of variations on every corner. I opted for some salted codfish for dinner with potatoes and eggs. Lots of eggs, not much fish or potatoes it turned out.
Lots of museums here, so I had a look around a few of them. The Maritime museum had lots of ship models, including a chinese vessel with large boulders on tall logs with hinges for dropping down and smashing enemy ships. A formidable looking weapon. Also a model of a large 7 story Chinese war ship which was supposed to "shock and awe" the enemy into submission. Apparently it wasn't actually much use in war, just looked good!
Macau used to be a Portugese colony, granted after fending off the pirates, so there is some influece noticeable in the architecture especially around the city square, with the paved wiggly lines in a piazza-type setting. I heard a few people speaking some sort of Portuguese language, with some English thrown in. Although apparently the population is now 95% Chinese. There is a F3 race course round the city, similar to Monaco. I ended up walking round it, not by choice, but because I couldn't find a way to get off the road as it is walled in. I just wanted to cross the island. Some landfills are in operation which created Fishermans Wharf, which seems kinda tacky, with faux Roman ampi-theatre and strange mascots in spring costumes. Also a landfill area is NAPE, which if filled with tower blocks, pubs and restaurants. Apparently the north of Macua is the worlds most densely populated area.
I had a look at the F3 museum and the wine museum the next day. It was only 2quid for a pass to the top 6 museums, so not epensive. I then had a look at St. Pauls Ruins which as you may have guessed doesn't have much left, just the front facade of the old church. A small crypt houses some religous art at the back.
At night time the casino lights come on, and the rich people come out to throw their money away. I headed down to Casino Lisboa, the most famous casino on the island, to watch the action unfold. But it wasn't that exciting. I guess most of the big money, is won and lost in private rooms, don't want to mingle with the riff-raff such as myself. The other problem was I didn't have a clue about how the games worked, who had won or lost. Some strange card games. At least I just about understand roulette. Not exactly fast-paced though. I headed off to the a new casino the American owned Sands casino. With hundreds of slot machines lining the walls. Here in Macau the call them "Hungry Tiges", with jackpots heading into the millions of Patacas. Needless to say I didn't win anything.
I had a spot of Nasi Goreng Indonesian style served in bamboo, and for something local a portuguese egg tart, yummy. Next stop is the short hop over to Hong Kong.
So once I got settled it was getting dark, so I popped out for a look around. First impressions is that there is a lot of beef jerky everywhere. Seems to be shops selling all sorts of variations on every corner. I opted for some salted codfish for dinner with potatoes and eggs. Lots of eggs, not much fish or potatoes it turned out.
Lots of museums here, so I had a look around a few of them. The Maritime museum had lots of ship models, including a chinese vessel with large boulders on tall logs with hinges for dropping down and smashing enemy ships. A formidable looking weapon. Also a model of a large 7 story Chinese war ship which was supposed to "shock and awe" the enemy into submission. Apparently it wasn't actually much use in war, just looked good!
Macau used to be a Portugese colony, granted after fending off the pirates, so there is some influece noticeable in the architecture especially around the city square, with the paved wiggly lines in a piazza-type setting. I heard a few people speaking some sort of Portuguese language, with some English thrown in. Although apparently the population is now 95% Chinese. There is a F3 race course round the city, similar to Monaco. I ended up walking round it, not by choice, but because I couldn't find a way to get off the road as it is walled in. I just wanted to cross the island. Some landfills are in operation which created Fishermans Wharf, which seems kinda tacky, with faux Roman ampi-theatre and strange mascots in spring costumes. Also a landfill area is NAPE, which if filled with tower blocks, pubs and restaurants. Apparently the north of Macua is the worlds most densely populated area.
I had a look at the F3 museum and the wine museum the next day. It was only 2quid for a pass to the top 6 museums, so not epensive. I then had a look at St. Pauls Ruins which as you may have guessed doesn't have much left, just the front facade of the old church. A small crypt houses some religous art at the back.
At night time the casino lights come on, and the rich people come out to throw their money away. I headed down to Casino Lisboa, the most famous casino on the island, to watch the action unfold. But it wasn't that exciting. I guess most of the big money, is won and lost in private rooms, don't want to mingle with the riff-raff such as myself. The other problem was I didn't have a clue about how the games worked, who had won or lost. Some strange card games. At least I just about understand roulette. Not exactly fast-paced though. I headed off to the a new casino the American owned Sands casino. With hundreds of slot machines lining the walls. Here in Macau the call them "Hungry Tiges", with jackpots heading into the millions of Patacas. Needless to say I didn't win anything.
I had a spot of Nasi Goreng Indonesian style served in bamboo, and for something local a portuguese egg tart, yummy. Next stop is the short hop over to Hong Kong.
Thursday, July 06, 2006
And more cycling!
Sukothai - Tak 70km
Quite an isolated ride in some sections, not much about. Tak is a small river side market town. Had a nice dinner of duck, need the energy! I saw some more of the World Cup on the TV. Off to bed.
Tak - Thoen 95km
More long rides, as the options for stopping around are limited. I suspect they aren't many hotels in Thoen either. I found one (the one?) they seemed to have quite a lot of cyclists as there is nowhere else to stay. I had an attached "cycling room" for storing the bike. I checked the net and there is tour groups that go through here. I had chicken curry, which was mostly bones. And my banana roti wasn't great either. Next stop Lampang.
Thoen - Lampang 90km
Ouch my legs hurt. I have a rest day here in Lampang and get a massage where lots of bones snap and crackle. There is a few nice riverside restaurant with some bands. I had a beer, and then went back to the hotel by 9pm and zonked out.
Lampang - Chiang Mai 110km
A final big push and back to Chiang Mai. An early start was in order, and I managed to get out of bed! Done a quick 40km, before breakfast. Unfortunately I ended going in a rather circutious route to get on the main road. Stopped off at a service station for some noodle power. Gah, a few hills give me problems, but mostly its the relentess rotating as the distance slowly drops away. I decided to take a small detour through Lamphun, as the road is quieter than the superhighway. I've cycled a few time between Lamphun and Chiang Mai so I was back on familiar territory for the last 30km. Or I would of been if I hadn't taken a wrong turn. Anyway I eventually get back to Chiang Mai, and head for a late lunch at Mike's Burgers. Yummy!
Off to Bangkok now. Just need to sell my bike. A couple of hours before I need to leave somebody buys my bike, yah! Get back about half price for the actual bike.
I did 2529km total in 4 months or so. Now I'm going to Bangkok for two knee transplants :)
Sleeper train down to Bangkok and head off to Banglamphu. I headed into town for lunch, at the rather posh Siam Paragon. Still a food hall, but a touch more upmarket than Chiang Mai. Like the porsche and lamborgini showrooms on the 2nd floor (umm, how to you get the cars out??)
I have a shave at the barbers, hey I want my chin back!
I pick up a copy of Lonely Planet China for the astronomical price of 1300baht (Around 20quid)
I get a taxi to the airport and crawl through the Bangkok traffic. Plenty of time to check-in. Next stop Macau!
Quite an isolated ride in some sections, not much about. Tak is a small river side market town. Had a nice dinner of duck, need the energy! I saw some more of the World Cup on the TV. Off to bed.
Tak - Thoen 95km
More long rides, as the options for stopping around are limited. I suspect they aren't many hotels in Thoen either. I found one (the one?) they seemed to have quite a lot of cyclists as there is nowhere else to stay. I had an attached "cycling room" for storing the bike. I checked the net and there is tour groups that go through here. I had chicken curry, which was mostly bones. And my banana roti wasn't great either. Next stop Lampang.
Thoen - Lampang 90km
Ouch my legs hurt. I have a rest day here in Lampang and get a massage where lots of bones snap and crackle. There is a few nice riverside restaurant with some bands. I had a beer, and then went back to the hotel by 9pm and zonked out.
Lampang - Chiang Mai 110km
A final big push and back to Chiang Mai. An early start was in order, and I managed to get out of bed! Done a quick 40km, before breakfast. Unfortunately I ended going in a rather circutious route to get on the main road. Stopped off at a service station for some noodle power. Gah, a few hills give me problems, but mostly its the relentess rotating as the distance slowly drops away. I decided to take a small detour through Lamphun, as the road is quieter than the superhighway. I've cycled a few time between Lamphun and Chiang Mai so I was back on familiar territory for the last 30km. Or I would of been if I hadn't taken a wrong turn. Anyway I eventually get back to Chiang Mai, and head for a late lunch at Mike's Burgers. Yummy!
Off to Bangkok now. Just need to sell my bike. A couple of hours before I need to leave somebody buys my bike, yah! Get back about half price for the actual bike.
I did 2529km total in 4 months or so. Now I'm going to Bangkok for two knee transplants :)
Sleeper train down to Bangkok and head off to Banglamphu. I headed into town for lunch, at the rather posh Siam Paragon. Still a food hall, but a touch more upmarket than Chiang Mai. Like the porsche and lamborgini showrooms on the 2nd floor (umm, how to you get the cars out??)
I have a shave at the barbers, hey I want my chin back!
I pick up a copy of Lonely Planet China for the astronomical price of 1300baht (Around 20quid)
I get a taxi to the airport and crawl through the Bangkok traffic. Plenty of time to check-in. Next stop Macau!
Saturday, June 24, 2006
More Cycling
Phayao - Chiang Kham 80km
A fairly flat ride to get to Chiang Kham. This is the beginning of the hills into Nan though.
Chiang Kham - Pha Lang Kha 45km
A tough ride up and down the mountains, started okay, but lots of climbing. Finally found the hotel, 5kms further on than advertised. At least I hadn't gone past it, always a worry when there is not much up ahead. Situated at the top of a mountain overlooking a valley, with a nice view. A simple bungalow is the order of the day. At night time, some food is cooked and shared with the owner, his friend and his daughter(?). Not quite sure who she was, she couldn't speak, but was Thai with pale-blue eyes, strange. The owner and his friend guzzled a bottle of whisky that night. I just had a small shot as it would be up early tomorrow to tackle the mountains again. I can see the road winding down into the valley and then up the next ridge.
Pha Lang Kha - Tha Wang Pha 80km
Aye Carumba! A swelteringly tough ride here. At 6a.m. I was whizzing down the mountain I had spent most of yesterday climbing. After about only 4km it was all over, a short flat section through the bottom of the valley before the climbing began again. By 7a.m. I made it out the other side of the valley but I was ready to go back to bed. While it might of been cooler early morning, still sweating buckets. Down the other side of this mountain leaving Pha Lang Kha, holding on to the brakes as the road is weaving down the mountain is a series of switchbacks. Down at the bottom I narrowly avoid a rummaging pig. My wheels rims are too hot to touch from all the breaking! The day continues up and down through seemingly never ending valleys. Up, up and up for ages, lots of bike pushing. And then an all to swift journey down to the bottom of another valley. I get some more water at a shop, they are few and far between in cycling terms here. After drinking thirstily, it's on and upwards, this time along a mountain ridge, fantastic scenery! Eventually a long down hill brings me to a small town, only (a relative term when mountains are involved) 10km from Nan. I ask some locals if the road to Tha Wang Pha is flat. "Mountains!", they say. My face falls, and they dissolve into laughter. Thankfullly they were joking, it's pancake road into town. Now, I just need to find a hotel. I was cycling past the post office when I here "HELLO!". I pulled over and asked somebody about a hotel, they gave me directions written in Thai to show people. After asking many people with my piece of paper I got there. I wouldn't of found it on my own!
Tha Wang Pha - Nan 45km
Back on the flat roads, which is just as well, as my legs are having a hard time on the slightest incline. After a few hours I make it to Nan, find a hotel, and have a look around town. I duck into the museum at the skies open and it pours for an hour. After that off for some dinner. Steamed Lemon Fish, not that you would know as it was doused in chillies. Oh well, I found a pub and watched Argentina destroy somebody. I decided to push on down to Phrae, as I needed to get the bus back to Chiang Mai in a couple of days for a dentist appointment.
Nan - Paradise Resort! 40km
There wasn't much in the way of accommodation between Nan and Phrae so I stopped off here. Seemed like I was the only one here. Suprising the solitaire playing staff, by being a customer. A got a little bungalow, and some lunch before a huge storm came in for the afternoon. Not much to do here anyway. At least the food was nice.
Paradise Resort - Phrae 80km
On down to Phrae, a fairly flat ride but I was needing a rest day! Rolled into town and got a room. I tried to explain to the staff that I was going to Chiang Mai and would be back, not sure they understood but never mind, by bike was still there when I returned. I had a look around town at the tourist sights, but not much seemed opened. I went along to Prathat Chai House, a big house made out of 130 logs of 300year old teak, then filled with cheap plastic souvenirs!
Some noodles and dough balls in the night market. Fairly quiet place, only a handful of foreigners here. I went for a shave, and ending up with a haircut as well.
Phrae - Si Satchanalai 131km!!
Things didn't get off to a good start as I headed out of town on the wrong road to Lampang. Mistake number two was trying to take a short-cut back to the main road. I ended up going through small villages alongside a river on a road that had no predilection for direction or directness. Apparently it led to Den Chai though, which would get me back on track. And after 40km I did indeed arrive at Den Chai, staring at a 25km to Phrae sign.
Then it was into the hills again, not as steep as the roads at Nan, more depressingly just a dead straight road rising and rising. Back to pushing the bike! It was getting hot again. Then I got soaked in the rain, most welcome! But all too soon, the sun was burning again. On and on I made it out of the hills, and down to Si Satchanalai. Now, I just had to find the Historical Park where I wanted to stay. I doubt I took the shortest route but I made it to Wang Yom just beside the park. It was late in the day an I just wanted a shower. Of course, it took ages to get the room sorted out. After cleaning it out (many places never seemd to be prepared for guests!) they found out the air-con didn't work. So cleaned out the one next door, and the shower wouldn't work. Eventually a geezer came along and fixed the taps. Hurrah! After a shower, I rightly felt like a bit of dinner. Unfortunately the hotel restaurant had closed already (it was before 19:00). Seems like everything here is set up for bus tours. Passed big restaurants and a beer garden (both closed) presumably busy during the day. Found a small Thai restaurant for a couple of dishes to fill me up and off to bed. Zonk!
Si Satchanalai - Sukothai 75km
The next morning I had a very quick look round the ruins and then onto Sukothai. Not many days left for cycling so I wanted to push on down to Sukothai and have a rest day there. After leaving late (arround midday) I ended up getting rather toasted in the sunshine. Now I've got a big red nose. I had a look around the ruins the next day. Quite impressive not as grand as Angkor Wat, but still on a large scale. Spread out over a large area it is fulls of ruins mostly from around the 13th century. They start to look all the same after a while though. Wat Sri Chum stood out as having a buddha almost encased in a large building, approaching it you can see through just a small gap.
Tommorrow it is onwards west to Tak, then north to Thoen, Lampang and finally back to Chianh Mai.
A fairly flat ride to get to Chiang Kham. This is the beginning of the hills into Nan though.
Chiang Kham - Pha Lang Kha 45km
A tough ride up and down the mountains, started okay, but lots of climbing. Finally found the hotel, 5kms further on than advertised. At least I hadn't gone past it, always a worry when there is not much up ahead. Situated at the top of a mountain overlooking a valley, with a nice view. A simple bungalow is the order of the day. At night time, some food is cooked and shared with the owner, his friend and his daughter(?). Not quite sure who she was, she couldn't speak, but was Thai with pale-blue eyes, strange. The owner and his friend guzzled a bottle of whisky that night. I just had a small shot as it would be up early tomorrow to tackle the mountains again. I can see the road winding down into the valley and then up the next ridge.
Pha Lang Kha - Tha Wang Pha 80km
Aye Carumba! A swelteringly tough ride here. At 6a.m. I was whizzing down the mountain I had spent most of yesterday climbing. After about only 4km it was all over, a short flat section through the bottom of the valley before the climbing began again. By 7a.m. I made it out the other side of the valley but I was ready to go back to bed. While it might of been cooler early morning, still sweating buckets. Down the other side of this mountain leaving Pha Lang Kha, holding on to the brakes as the road is weaving down the mountain is a series of switchbacks. Down at the bottom I narrowly avoid a rummaging pig. My wheels rims are too hot to touch from all the breaking! The day continues up and down through seemingly never ending valleys. Up, up and up for ages, lots of bike pushing. And then an all to swift journey down to the bottom of another valley. I get some more water at a shop, they are few and far between in cycling terms here. After drinking thirstily, it's on and upwards, this time along a mountain ridge, fantastic scenery! Eventually a long down hill brings me to a small town, only (a relative term when mountains are involved) 10km from Nan. I ask some locals if the road to Tha Wang Pha is flat. "Mountains!", they say. My face falls, and they dissolve into laughter. Thankfullly they were joking, it's pancake road into town. Now, I just need to find a hotel. I was cycling past the post office when I here "HELLO!". I pulled over and asked somebody about a hotel, they gave me directions written in Thai to show people. After asking many people with my piece of paper I got there. I wouldn't of found it on my own!
Tha Wang Pha - Nan 45km
Back on the flat roads, which is just as well, as my legs are having a hard time on the slightest incline. After a few hours I make it to Nan, find a hotel, and have a look around town. I duck into the museum at the skies open and it pours for an hour. After that off for some dinner. Steamed Lemon Fish, not that you would know as it was doused in chillies. Oh well, I found a pub and watched Argentina destroy somebody. I decided to push on down to Phrae, as I needed to get the bus back to Chiang Mai in a couple of days for a dentist appointment.
Nan - Paradise Resort! 40km
There wasn't much in the way of accommodation between Nan and Phrae so I stopped off here. Seemed like I was the only one here. Suprising the solitaire playing staff, by being a customer. A got a little bungalow, and some lunch before a huge storm came in for the afternoon. Not much to do here anyway. At least the food was nice.
Paradise Resort - Phrae 80km
On down to Phrae, a fairly flat ride but I was needing a rest day! Rolled into town and got a room. I tried to explain to the staff that I was going to Chiang Mai and would be back, not sure they understood but never mind, by bike was still there when I returned. I had a look around town at the tourist sights, but not much seemed opened. I went along to Prathat Chai House, a big house made out of 130 logs of 300year old teak, then filled with cheap plastic souvenirs!
Some noodles and dough balls in the night market. Fairly quiet place, only a handful of foreigners here. I went for a shave, and ending up with a haircut as well.
Phrae - Si Satchanalai 131km!!
Things didn't get off to a good start as I headed out of town on the wrong road to Lampang. Mistake number two was trying to take a short-cut back to the main road. I ended up going through small villages alongside a river on a road that had no predilection for direction or directness. Apparently it led to Den Chai though, which would get me back on track. And after 40km I did indeed arrive at Den Chai, staring at a 25km to Phrae sign.
Then it was into the hills again, not as steep as the roads at Nan, more depressingly just a dead straight road rising and rising. Back to pushing the bike! It was getting hot again. Then I got soaked in the rain, most welcome! But all too soon, the sun was burning again. On and on I made it out of the hills, and down to Si Satchanalai. Now, I just had to find the Historical Park where I wanted to stay. I doubt I took the shortest route but I made it to Wang Yom just beside the park. It was late in the day an I just wanted a shower. Of course, it took ages to get the room sorted out. After cleaning it out (many places never seemd to be prepared for guests!) they found out the air-con didn't work. So cleaned out the one next door, and the shower wouldn't work. Eventually a geezer came along and fixed the taps. Hurrah! After a shower, I rightly felt like a bit of dinner. Unfortunately the hotel restaurant had closed already (it was before 19:00). Seems like everything here is set up for bus tours. Passed big restaurants and a beer garden (both closed) presumably busy during the day. Found a small Thai restaurant for a couple of dishes to fill me up and off to bed. Zonk!
Si Satchanalai - Sukothai 75km
The next morning I had a very quick look round the ruins and then onto Sukothai. Not many days left for cycling so I wanted to push on down to Sukothai and have a rest day there. After leaving late (arround midday) I ended up getting rather toasted in the sunshine. Now I've got a big red nose. I had a look around the ruins the next day. Quite impressive not as grand as Angkor Wat, but still on a large scale. Spread out over a large area it is fulls of ruins mostly from around the 13th century. They start to look all the same after a while though. Wat Sri Chum stood out as having a buddha almost encased in a large building, approaching it you can see through just a small gap.
Tommorrow it is onwards west to Tak, then north to Thoen, Lampang and finally back to Chianh Mai.
Sunday, June 11, 2006
Chiang Saen - Phayao
Chiang Saen - Mae Sai 45km
Just one big hill to get up and over and then fairly flat along almost a country lane till I reached Mae Sai. Here I got my new visa again. I was asked to show 10,000 baht for my stay, I didn't have it so I asked for an ATM and said it was I going to China and the guy said doesn't matter. Mae Sai is a busy border town lots of shopping spilling out on to the pavement and road selling all sorts. A short road through Mynamar links China to Thailand through which trucks rumble along. I decide I would check out Tham Luang (Big Cave) on my bike. It was about 6km away, I cam to a t-junction and took a right, I should of gone left. Anyway I got there eventually, nobody was about. My guidebook said you could hire lights there but it was spookily empty. Just a dark, dripping, dank entrance to a large cave. I went in about 5m and that was enough, back out into the sunshine. The cave is part of a green mountain spurting up out the plains rising high above Mae Sai. A lot bigger and steeper close up.
Mae Sai - Chiang Rai 65km
Back down to Chiang Rai, this time down the main highway. A fairly easy cycle but hot today, seemed a long way. Stop for cool drinks, at least no hills on this road. A bit late starting out, so I was hungry by the time I got to Chiang Rai and grab so lunch and lots of liquid.
Chiang Rai - Phayao 98km
Long ride, but flat, just seems to take forever, chugging along slowly. All about just keeping the pedals turning, not going fast! I stopped off at one of the rain/sun shelter for a rest. A truck pulled out and out jumped a Thai with a form, he wanted my to help fill in the English form, as a widowed friend wanted her kids to be Swiss citizens. After helping with that back on the road. Have a long lunch and a rest before continuing on. Eventually arrive in Phayao and cycle round in circles trying to find somewhere to stay. Decide on the Wattanna hotel, not too bad for the price. I've got a TV so I can watch some of the football. My legs hurt! The anniversary of the King's 60th Ascension to the throne is this weekend. A lot of people join in a parade to the local park. A big band, soldiers and civilians wearing the yellow t-shirt make up the throngs. I didn't think there was this many people here. Phayao is a small provincial town based on a artificial lake. I popped along to the main Wat, but undergoing repairs. Here is housed the largest lanna style buddha, but I get only a glimpse through the scaffolding. I visit the attached musuem, which even had exhibits in English, not bad for a small town. I am nearly the only foreigner in town. A bus comes each days and deposits a tour-group of foreigners for 20 minutes of coffee and a toilet stop before they are whisked off. I bumped into a couple of people who are actually living here, but they are working at the bible school. Now I'm addicted to ice-cream.
Tomorrow I set off for Chiang Kham, I suspect there may be hills involved!
Just one big hill to get up and over and then fairly flat along almost a country lane till I reached Mae Sai. Here I got my new visa again. I was asked to show 10,000 baht for my stay, I didn't have it so I asked for an ATM and said it was I going to China and the guy said doesn't matter. Mae Sai is a busy border town lots of shopping spilling out on to the pavement and road selling all sorts. A short road through Mynamar links China to Thailand through which trucks rumble along. I decide I would check out Tham Luang (Big Cave) on my bike. It was about 6km away, I cam to a t-junction and took a right, I should of gone left. Anyway I got there eventually, nobody was about. My guidebook said you could hire lights there but it was spookily empty. Just a dark, dripping, dank entrance to a large cave. I went in about 5m and that was enough, back out into the sunshine. The cave is part of a green mountain spurting up out the plains rising high above Mae Sai. A lot bigger and steeper close up.
Mae Sai - Chiang Rai 65km
Back down to Chiang Rai, this time down the main highway. A fairly easy cycle but hot today, seemed a long way. Stop for cool drinks, at least no hills on this road. A bit late starting out, so I was hungry by the time I got to Chiang Rai and grab so lunch and lots of liquid.
Chiang Rai - Phayao 98km
Long ride, but flat, just seems to take forever, chugging along slowly. All about just keeping the pedals turning, not going fast! I stopped off at one of the rain/sun shelter for a rest. A truck pulled out and out jumped a Thai with a form, he wanted my to help fill in the English form, as a widowed friend wanted her kids to be Swiss citizens. After helping with that back on the road. Have a long lunch and a rest before continuing on. Eventually arrive in Phayao and cycle round in circles trying to find somewhere to stay. Decide on the Wattanna hotel, not too bad for the price. I've got a TV so I can watch some of the football. My legs hurt! The anniversary of the King's 60th Ascension to the throne is this weekend. A lot of people join in a parade to the local park. A big band, soldiers and civilians wearing the yellow t-shirt make up the throngs. I didn't think there was this many people here. Phayao is a small provincial town based on a artificial lake. I popped along to the main Wat, but undergoing repairs. Here is housed the largest lanna style buddha, but I get only a glimpse through the scaffolding. I visit the attached musuem, which even had exhibits in English, not bad for a small town. I am nearly the only foreigner in town. A bus comes each days and deposits a tour-group of foreigners for 20 minutes of coffee and a toilet stop before they are whisked off. I bumped into a couple of people who are actually living here, but they are working at the bible school. Now I'm addicted to ice-cream.
Tomorrow I set off for Chiang Kham, I suspect there may be hills involved!
Friday, June 02, 2006
Back in Chiang Mai (again!)
Wed - Mae Chan to Chiang Saen - 35km
I found some dinner in Mae Chan, one of these cook 'em yourself types. I didn't feel so good a few hours later, I'm blaming that round squidy/fishy thing. But I managed to get on the bike and cycled along to Chiang Saen, at the North East border of Thailand. The Mekong runs down past Chiang Saen, across the other side is Laos. As flat a ride as I'm likely to get on the way here, barely a hill was climbed. Chiang Saen has some old ruins in the city and like Chiang Mai has/had a wall and moat surrounding the perimeter. I went for a look round the museum and then booked a bus ticket back to Chiang Mai. Why? Because I've got toothache :(. I decided I would rather take my chances with a dentist in CM rather than out in the country!
After a 5 hour bus journey, I dumped my bag at Kavil's Guesthouse. The owner was suprised to see me again. Then I headed off to Chiang Mai Ram the new hospital at the north-west corner of the moat. They had a dental clinic, at first I made an appointment for the following day, but after some persuasion I managed to see the dentist (just for an examination they said). Turned out my wisdom tooth need removed, so they gave me some antibiotics and then 30minutes later started the pulling and yanking and general unpleasant tooth-pulling type stuff. So I'm down a wisdom tooth and munching on pain-killers. A bit better today than yesterday when it was very sore, a big gaping hole in my gums! Went and saw XMen 3, quite good in a special effect sort of way. I'll head back up to Chiang Saen in the next day or two and return to cycling, need to go to Mae Sai and get my visa stamped on the 7th.
I found some dinner in Mae Chan, one of these cook 'em yourself types. I didn't feel so good a few hours later, I'm blaming that round squidy/fishy thing. But I managed to get on the bike and cycled along to Chiang Saen, at the North East border of Thailand. The Mekong runs down past Chiang Saen, across the other side is Laos. As flat a ride as I'm likely to get on the way here, barely a hill was climbed. Chiang Saen has some old ruins in the city and like Chiang Mai has/had a wall and moat surrounding the perimeter. I went for a look round the museum and then booked a bus ticket back to Chiang Mai. Why? Because I've got toothache :(. I decided I would rather take my chances with a dentist in CM rather than out in the country!
After a 5 hour bus journey, I dumped my bag at Kavil's Guesthouse. The owner was suprised to see me again. Then I headed off to Chiang Mai Ram the new hospital at the north-west corner of the moat. They had a dental clinic, at first I made an appointment for the following day, but after some persuasion I managed to see the dentist (just for an examination they said). Turned out my wisdom tooth need removed, so they gave me some antibiotics and then 30minutes later started the pulling and yanking and general unpleasant tooth-pulling type stuff. So I'm down a wisdom tooth and munching on pain-killers. A bit better today than yesterday when it was very sore, a big gaping hole in my gums! Went and saw XMen 3, quite good in a special effect sort of way. I'll head back up to Chiang Saen in the next day or two and return to cycling, need to go to Mae Sai and get my visa stamped on the 7th.
Tuesday, May 30, 2006
More Cycling
Sunday - Chiang Rai to Akha Hill House - 23km
Akha Hill was only 25km or so away, so I was in no hurry to leave. About 11.30 I got unyderway. A pleasant ride with little traffic. I was stopped after about 10km by a man in uniform holding up the traffic as a funeral procession heading towards a wat. A single rocket whizzed into the air before exploding. I progressed onwards cyling down past the river, until a sign stating Akha Hill pointed left along a dirt track. Along there I headed making slow but steady progress. It was getting hot and no shade was to be found. I struggled on for a bit in the lowest gear before getting tired and resorting to pushing it uphill. The gruesome climb turned out to be a real monster. After an hour or so I struggled to the summit absolutely drenched in sweat. Then downhill, it was that steep that it felt like I was going to go over the handlebars! I made it down to a village and promptly bought a nice cold bottle of water, aaah. Still Akha Hill was another few km over rough road and a final very steep hill. But I had made it! Not exactly luxury rooms, but as it was up a mountain you have to share with the locals. The locals being mozzies, flying ants, giant spiders as big as my hand and the ever stupid moths. The Akha people are one of the hill tribes resident in the north of Thailand, each hill tribe has it own customs, clothes and even languages. Most of them there don't speak Thai.
The rainy season is here though and that's what it did. Still at least I had a nice view, as I read my book under the cover of my bungalow roof as the rain splattered down into the valley below. There was a couple of Austrians there the first night, and a couple of Mexicans and a Candian the next night. After a couple of nights I was ready to leave and get a decent sleep, and not worry about what was making that rustling noise during the night. Not quite sure what's worse seeing a giant spider above your head, or seeing that the giant spider is no longer above your head. The mosquito net was tucked in tightly!
I took the easy option out and threw my bike in the back of a pickup truck and got a lift back to Chiang Rai.
Tuesday - Chiang Rai to Mae Chan - 35km
A simple ride along the major highway, well it was once I located the highway. Plenty of space to ride, almost a lane to myself. I tried to eat a whole pineapple from a side of the road vendor for 10baht. I failed though, and gave the rest to the a nearby mangy mutt. The dog was owned by the vendor and I'm sure it thought, "Oh no not pineapple again!"
I found a place to stay easily enough, it even has a strange kind of porch/sitting room with a fridge with nothing but 2 bottles of water and a moth in it. I had a quick cycle about town and then headed back and finished off my book. I strolled into town just after five, to find it was all shut. Although I did find this Internet cafe place that I now type of. Harded to find somebody to but a ticket to use the computer though. I shall head off for a spot of dinner soon, if I can find an open restuarant!
Akha Hill was only 25km or so away, so I was in no hurry to leave. About 11.30 I got unyderway. A pleasant ride with little traffic. I was stopped after about 10km by a man in uniform holding up the traffic as a funeral procession heading towards a wat. A single rocket whizzed into the air before exploding. I progressed onwards cyling down past the river, until a sign stating Akha Hill pointed left along a dirt track. Along there I headed making slow but steady progress. It was getting hot and no shade was to be found. I struggled on for a bit in the lowest gear before getting tired and resorting to pushing it uphill. The gruesome climb turned out to be a real monster. After an hour or so I struggled to the summit absolutely drenched in sweat. Then downhill, it was that steep that it felt like I was going to go over the handlebars! I made it down to a village and promptly bought a nice cold bottle of water, aaah. Still Akha Hill was another few km over rough road and a final very steep hill. But I had made it! Not exactly luxury rooms, but as it was up a mountain you have to share with the locals. The locals being mozzies, flying ants, giant spiders as big as my hand and the ever stupid moths. The Akha people are one of the hill tribes resident in the north of Thailand, each hill tribe has it own customs, clothes and even languages. Most of them there don't speak Thai.
The rainy season is here though and that's what it did. Still at least I had a nice view, as I read my book under the cover of my bungalow roof as the rain splattered down into the valley below. There was a couple of Austrians there the first night, and a couple of Mexicans and a Candian the next night. After a couple of nights I was ready to leave and get a decent sleep, and not worry about what was making that rustling noise during the night. Not quite sure what's worse seeing a giant spider above your head, or seeing that the giant spider is no longer above your head. The mosquito net was tucked in tightly!
I took the easy option out and threw my bike in the back of a pickup truck and got a lift back to Chiang Rai.
Tuesday - Chiang Rai to Mae Chan - 35km
A simple ride along the major highway, well it was once I located the highway. Plenty of space to ride, almost a lane to myself. I tried to eat a whole pineapple from a side of the road vendor for 10baht. I failed though, and gave the rest to the a nearby mangy mutt. The dog was owned by the vendor and I'm sure it thought, "Oh no not pineapple again!"
I found a place to stay easily enough, it even has a strange kind of porch/sitting room with a fridge with nothing but 2 bottles of water and a moth in it. I had a quick cycle about town and then headed back and finished off my book. I strolled into town just after five, to find it was all shut. Although I did find this Internet cafe place that I now type of. Harded to find somebody to but a ticket to use the computer though. I shall head off for a spot of dinner soon, if I can find an open restuarant!
Thursday, May 25, 2006
Cycling North Thailand
Day 1 (22nd) Chiang Mai to [null] (0km)
Drank too much Chang Beer last night playing some Scottish geezer at pool. Cycling postponed.
Day 1 (23rd) - Chiang Mai to Windmill Country (46km)
Even though I had the whole of yesterday to pack, I left it till the morning of departure. Typically I had too much stuff to cram into my daypack, but eventually by some quirk of fate I managed to zip it shut. The self-satisfied smirk was soon wiped from my face as I turned round to discover a spare inner tube pleading to be included on the trip. Eventually bags were packed, rucksacks stoved and helmets fastened. Strangely enough the rack on my bike was a lot narrower and my bad a lot wider than I anticipated. Still after ten minutes of experimentation I jury-rigged the daypack rather precariously to the rack. Didn't look the most stable of arrangements, but as long as it didn't drop off and land in front of a truck (like my last bike tour!) then I would be a happy chappy.
Soon I was weaving my way amongst Chian Mai's finest motorbike, tuk-tuks and songthaews, towards the river. My first mistake was to think I knew where I was going, the second was to think i would be able to get there. I ended up being forced along Chiang Mai's one way system. I did make it over the river and through the construction zone of the superhighway. However, I was not going in entirely the right direction. Still as I stopped at the traffic lights I surveyed the bloke idling his motorbike, he was carrying a package on the back attached with bungee ropes. Within ten minutes I had procured a bungee rope for the pricely sum of 10 baht. Now with the luggage safely attached I sped on in the slightly wrong direction. Soon, I took a swift left turn and 6kms more than needed I was back on track, the 118 to Doi Saket. I was easing my way slowly out of Chiang Mai. The traffic thinning the further I proceeded. Out on to the open road, free of traffic lights and now I even had a lane to myself, everybody else likes the fast lane. Building thinned out, greenery appeared, you could even breathe the air!
After an hour of so I reached the turn off for Doi Saket, the last point before heading into mountain wilderness. Stopped off here for a spot of brunch, chicken fried rice. Legs were already feeling a bit heavy. I'd hardly been out on the bike the last couple of weeks. Not a good sign especially as I knew what was up ahead, hills, big ones too. Even at this early stage I'd ruled out getting to Khun Chae National Park, 60km from Chiang Mai. I would instead head for the windmill place I had spotted whilst on the bus doing a visa run. After about 25km from Chiang Mai, the hills started. Big undulations at first and then a steep climb. The road split into three lanes, two up, one down. This allowed all the old bangers to crawl ever so slowly up the hill, not to mention the occasional sweaty Scotsman on a bike. I was soon in bottom gear, threatening to blow a gasket as I wheezed up the mountain. I stopped off for a well deserved breather at a shrine. Everybody in their cars beeps their horns when passing the shrine, maybe it is the god of Road Safety. Onwards and upwards I went (thankfully not much more upwards). Then down, down fast. Stopped at the top for a coke, at least in the middle of nowhere you can still get a drink at a stall in Thailand. Then a another stop for ice coffee and a flick through Architecture Monthly (it was either that or Thailand Tattler). Judging by the adverts, anybody reading this is interested in either a new kitchen stove or wealth management. After a lazy half hour I was back on the bike, shouldn't be far now. But then the sun came up to fry my brains! Eventually I arrived red armed and rosy faced. More expensive than I wanted to pay, but the owner was not for giving a discount. Well I did get 50baht off, which he got back as I guzzled five bottled of water in my stay. Besides I wasn't like I was going anywhere else. Cold shower, aaah! Then have a quick nosy about, it is a nice spot. Still not quite sure why there is a large windmill as there is never a steady breeze up these parts. I had some garlic chicken, but it didn't seem to keep the mozzies at bay :(
Day 2 (23rd) - Windmill Country to Suan Charin (103km)
I knew a long climb was the beginning order of the day, but it didn't make it go away. After a hearty ABF (2 egss, 2 sausages, 2 toast & 1 coffee) I was set, ready for an apres-brekkie nap that is. But this bike wasn't going to cycle itself over the mountain (at least not without me cannibalising a lawn-mower). Things started slowly and went downhill (or should that be uphill?) I couldn't get my legs into gear. They refused to go uphills and struggled even on the occasional downhill, not a good sign. After a few more rests, I stopped off at another shrine high on the hill. Here I spotted some brightly coloured birds one with slashes of brilliant red, the other yellow. So vibrant were the colours I wondered if bird-painting might be a national pastime. The certainly caught your eye. Somebody stopped off at the shrine I was at. I though maybe to place an offering for the Buddha, like I had seen in the past. That notion was quickly dispelled at they ran off into the woods clutching a bundle of toilet paper. A different sort of present then, I thought, time to be going. I leaped to my feet and pushed my bike up the next hill. Rounding the corner I spotted a sign for Khun Chae National Park. Indeed a splendid sight as I thought it was still 5km away. I knew that this meant the peak of the big hill. Soon I was whizzing down the other side of the mountain reaching speeds of 60km. Then on past what looked like a "Main Bridge out of order, drive through the mud" sign. It was indeed. Like a scene out of Glastonbury, the road had turned to sludge. Certainly not the easiest surface to cycle through and I ended up rather mud-splattered from the passing cars and my own treacherous bike! For a few more km's mud was dragged through the streets. Then a bit of cleanliness. That didn't last long. I had a made a mental note that the road was awful for about 15km, but it most of fallen down one of the folds on my cerebrum. The edge of the road was mostly dust and rubble held together with potholes. I had to push out to middle of the road for something to cycle on, but so did everybody else. Anyway, I came to to some hot springs. Not the sort to dip your toes in at 90C though. A strong smell of sulphur was in the air but that might just of been the eggs that were being cooked in the water for the tourists. In a "too little-too late" moment I purchased a small bottle of suntan lotion (for 300baht!) to try and keep my red bits pink. I thought I might stay at Wiang Pa Po but it was dusty and unappealing so I pushed on. After 30 minutes I saw a sign saying Wiang Pa Po - 3km. Huh? I guess that was some other town back there then. Still now the road was flat and after some Phad Thai I was feeling resurgent and soared along the road for another hour before fatigue started clawing again at my legs. The kilometres to Mae Suai slowly but surely ticked down. I arrived at a T-junction (how did this get a dot on my map?) I could take a left to Fang Oil well, I continued straight. Accommodation was available a short distance after this village. I checked my map and indeed it did look a short but bendy ride away. The road seemed to consist of giant U-shaped sections through the valley. Rounding a corner I could see the same road looping back in a giant curve. Still I pedalled on, as I was wondering if I was ever going to get somewhere, a fantastically welcome signed proclaimed the hotel to be only 200metres away, hurrah!!
I settled into a room and tried not to fall asleep, just yet. The restaurant, the only one for miles around, closes at 18:45. After that cycle, which by the dubious calculations of my bike computer burned off 1660 calories, I was feeling, what shall we say? - A trifle peckish. After munching down on the ever dependable chicken & cashew nuts, I tucked into a cheese & ham sandwich. There wasn't much else to do except a quick read of my book and off for an early night as I suspected that the translucent curtains would do nothing to prevent the room lighting up at dawn.
Day 3 (24th) Suan Charin - Chiang Rai (51km)
I woke up at 6am, promptly buried my head under the covers and got up at a more realistic time 3 hours later. After some toast & egg I was underway. It was going to be a relatively short day as Chiang Rai lay a mere 43km away. Again a slow start (note to self: double number of morning star jumps) but I had stopped in the right location, all those monster hills were safely behind me. Just some gentle undulations and mild climbs. Ahead lay highway number one, the Pan-Asian highway. Through this road you could (theoretically if not legally) traverse from Singapore all the way to, ooh, Skye! Instead I oped to go the quiet back road the 1211 into Chiang Rai. The 1211 barely had any traffic on it as I cycled along. The quiet road lent a lazy feel and a slow pace of life was in evidence. This stupor even extended to the dogs as they couldn't be bother to bark never mind chase me. Not one whimper! A fairly uneventful ride culminated in my arrival at Lek's house. A more reasonable priced guesthouse than the posh places of the past 2 days. I did pass a couple of intriguing signs on the way here though. First up "Fish Reserve & Buddhist Studies". Seemed a little odd until I cycled past a sign for the "Ostrich & Rottweiler Farm".
Oooh, I just found 50 paise (1/2 ruppee). Actually I didn't as your not supposed to take money out of India. Whew, a close call. Still it wasn't at all what I was looking for. That object being rather important if you want to leave the country. Yep, in an outstanding display of clot-headedness I left my passport in Chiang Mai. Tomorrow I return by bus, sigh...
Drank too much Chang Beer last night playing some Scottish geezer at pool. Cycling postponed.
Day 1 (23rd) - Chiang Mai to Windmill Country (46km)
Even though I had the whole of yesterday to pack, I left it till the morning of departure. Typically I had too much stuff to cram into my daypack, but eventually by some quirk of fate I managed to zip it shut. The self-satisfied smirk was soon wiped from my face as I turned round to discover a spare inner tube pleading to be included on the trip. Eventually bags were packed, rucksacks stoved and helmets fastened. Strangely enough the rack on my bike was a lot narrower and my bad a lot wider than I anticipated. Still after ten minutes of experimentation I jury-rigged the daypack rather precariously to the rack. Didn't look the most stable of arrangements, but as long as it didn't drop off and land in front of a truck (like my last bike tour!) then I would be a happy chappy.
Soon I was weaving my way amongst Chian Mai's finest motorbike, tuk-tuks and songthaews, towards the river. My first mistake was to think I knew where I was going, the second was to think i would be able to get there. I ended up being forced along Chiang Mai's one way system. I did make it over the river and through the construction zone of the superhighway. However, I was not going in entirely the right direction. Still as I stopped at the traffic lights I surveyed the bloke idling his motorbike, he was carrying a package on the back attached with bungee ropes. Within ten minutes I had procured a bungee rope for the pricely sum of 10 baht. Now with the luggage safely attached I sped on in the slightly wrong direction. Soon, I took a swift left turn and 6kms more than needed I was back on track, the 118 to Doi Saket. I was easing my way slowly out of Chiang Mai. The traffic thinning the further I proceeded. Out on to the open road, free of traffic lights and now I even had a lane to myself, everybody else likes the fast lane. Building thinned out, greenery appeared, you could even breathe the air!
After an hour of so I reached the turn off for Doi Saket, the last point before heading into mountain wilderness. Stopped off here for a spot of brunch, chicken fried rice. Legs were already feeling a bit heavy. I'd hardly been out on the bike the last couple of weeks. Not a good sign especially as I knew what was up ahead, hills, big ones too. Even at this early stage I'd ruled out getting to Khun Chae National Park, 60km from Chiang Mai. I would instead head for the windmill place I had spotted whilst on the bus doing a visa run. After about 25km from Chiang Mai, the hills started. Big undulations at first and then a steep climb. The road split into three lanes, two up, one down. This allowed all the old bangers to crawl ever so slowly up the hill, not to mention the occasional sweaty Scotsman on a bike. I was soon in bottom gear, threatening to blow a gasket as I wheezed up the mountain. I stopped off for a well deserved breather at a shrine. Everybody in their cars beeps their horns when passing the shrine, maybe it is the god of Road Safety. Onwards and upwards I went (thankfully not much more upwards). Then down, down fast. Stopped at the top for a coke, at least in the middle of nowhere you can still get a drink at a stall in Thailand. Then a another stop for ice coffee and a flick through Architecture Monthly (it was either that or Thailand Tattler). Judging by the adverts, anybody reading this is interested in either a new kitchen stove or wealth management. After a lazy half hour I was back on the bike, shouldn't be far now. But then the sun came up to fry my brains! Eventually I arrived red armed and rosy faced. More expensive than I wanted to pay, but the owner was not for giving a discount. Well I did get 50baht off, which he got back as I guzzled five bottled of water in my stay. Besides I wasn't like I was going anywhere else. Cold shower, aaah! Then have a quick nosy about, it is a nice spot. Still not quite sure why there is a large windmill as there is never a steady breeze up these parts. I had some garlic chicken, but it didn't seem to keep the mozzies at bay :(
Day 2 (23rd) - Windmill Country to Suan Charin (103km)
I knew a long climb was the beginning order of the day, but it didn't make it go away. After a hearty ABF (2 egss, 2 sausages, 2 toast & 1 coffee) I was set, ready for an apres-brekkie nap that is. But this bike wasn't going to cycle itself over the mountain (at least not without me cannibalising a lawn-mower). Things started slowly and went downhill (or should that be uphill?) I couldn't get my legs into gear. They refused to go uphills and struggled even on the occasional downhill, not a good sign. After a few more rests, I stopped off at another shrine high on the hill. Here I spotted some brightly coloured birds one with slashes of brilliant red, the other yellow. So vibrant were the colours I wondered if bird-painting might be a national pastime. The certainly caught your eye. Somebody stopped off at the shrine I was at. I though maybe to place an offering for the Buddha, like I had seen in the past. That notion was quickly dispelled at they ran off into the woods clutching a bundle of toilet paper. A different sort of present then, I thought, time to be going. I leaped to my feet and pushed my bike up the next hill. Rounding the corner I spotted a sign for Khun Chae National Park. Indeed a splendid sight as I thought it was still 5km away. I knew that this meant the peak of the big hill. Soon I was whizzing down the other side of the mountain reaching speeds of 60km. Then on past what looked like a "Main Bridge out of order, drive through the mud" sign. It was indeed. Like a scene out of Glastonbury, the road had turned to sludge. Certainly not the easiest surface to cycle through and I ended up rather mud-splattered from the passing cars and my own treacherous bike! For a few more km's mud was dragged through the streets. Then a bit of cleanliness. That didn't last long. I had a made a mental note that the road was awful for about 15km, but it most of fallen down one of the folds on my cerebrum. The edge of the road was mostly dust and rubble held together with potholes. I had to push out to middle of the road for something to cycle on, but so did everybody else. Anyway, I came to to some hot springs. Not the sort to dip your toes in at 90C though. A strong smell of sulphur was in the air but that might just of been the eggs that were being cooked in the water for the tourists. In a "too little-too late" moment I purchased a small bottle of suntan lotion (for 300baht!) to try and keep my red bits pink. I thought I might stay at Wiang Pa Po but it was dusty and unappealing so I pushed on. After 30 minutes I saw a sign saying Wiang Pa Po - 3km. Huh? I guess that was some other town back there then. Still now the road was flat and after some Phad Thai I was feeling resurgent and soared along the road for another hour before fatigue started clawing again at my legs. The kilometres to Mae Suai slowly but surely ticked down. I arrived at a T-junction (how did this get a dot on my map?) I could take a left to Fang Oil well, I continued straight. Accommodation was available a short distance after this village. I checked my map and indeed it did look a short but bendy ride away. The road seemed to consist of giant U-shaped sections through the valley. Rounding a corner I could see the same road looping back in a giant curve. Still I pedalled on, as I was wondering if I was ever going to get somewhere, a fantastically welcome signed proclaimed the hotel to be only 200metres away, hurrah!!
I settled into a room and tried not to fall asleep, just yet. The restaurant, the only one for miles around, closes at 18:45. After that cycle, which by the dubious calculations of my bike computer burned off 1660 calories, I was feeling, what shall we say? - A trifle peckish. After munching down on the ever dependable chicken & cashew nuts, I tucked into a cheese & ham sandwich. There wasn't much else to do except a quick read of my book and off for an early night as I suspected that the translucent curtains would do nothing to prevent the room lighting up at dawn.
Day 3 (24th) Suan Charin - Chiang Rai (51km)
I woke up at 6am, promptly buried my head under the covers and got up at a more realistic time 3 hours later. After some toast & egg I was underway. It was going to be a relatively short day as Chiang Rai lay a mere 43km away. Again a slow start (note to self: double number of morning star jumps) but I had stopped in the right location, all those monster hills were safely behind me. Just some gentle undulations and mild climbs. Ahead lay highway number one, the Pan-Asian highway. Through this road you could (theoretically if not legally) traverse from Singapore all the way to, ooh, Skye! Instead I oped to go the quiet back road the 1211 into Chiang Rai. The 1211 barely had any traffic on it as I cycled along. The quiet road lent a lazy feel and a slow pace of life was in evidence. This stupor even extended to the dogs as they couldn't be bother to bark never mind chase me. Not one whimper! A fairly uneventful ride culminated in my arrival at Lek's house. A more reasonable priced guesthouse than the posh places of the past 2 days. I did pass a couple of intriguing signs on the way here though. First up "Fish Reserve & Buddhist Studies". Seemed a little odd until I cycled past a sign for the "Ostrich & Rottweiler Farm".
Oooh, I just found 50 paise (1/2 ruppee). Actually I didn't as your not supposed to take money out of India. Whew, a close call. Still it wasn't at all what I was looking for. That object being rather important if you want to leave the country. Yep, in an outstanding display of clot-headedness I left my passport in Chiang Mai. Tomorrow I return by bus, sigh...
Thursday, May 11, 2006
Chiang Mai again...
Parents popped into Chiang Mai for 3 weeks. Headed down the the Imperial Mae Ping Hotel (sounds posh, doesn't it?) to meet them for dinner. Ate at one of the four restaurants in the hotel. I had the steak, very predictable. The next day I was in tour guide mode and we went along to Wat Phra Singh, a large temple inside the old city. It was nice and quiet not many other visitors. A few small temples lay round the side and in the courtyard there were trees with Buddhist proverbs, but sometime the language didn't seem to translate very well. We nipped off for a cheap lunch at a small restaurant behind the Wat. Then with my unfailing sense of direction and map-reading skills we went through the back lanes of Chiang Mai. Not lost, merely taking the scenic route, ahem. After a while we got to the right destination Fern Forest Cafe for a spot of iced coffee among the cool water mist being sprayed into the leafy gardens. Later on back to the hotel for a spot of chinese grub, I plumped for the sweet & sour pork, but had a tasty of the duck as well which was yummy!
Come Friday, we went and had a nosy round the large Kad Suan Kaew shopping centre, a decent place to escape the afternoon heat. Just stay away from the Karoke Centre if you want peace and quiet. My apartment is closeby, so popped back there to have a look around and view my Songkran pictures taken with a waterproof disposable camera. Then on to have a strange tasting Italian strawberry soda at a local cafe, while Mum ended up with something like plum-coffee. Aaah, the joys of ordering food & drink in a foreign country. Back down the hotel for a spot of dinner in the beer garden, I opted for a big fish (tumtim?) on a plate while my parents pigged out on a five course dinner :)
Next day, a long lunch in a little garden cafe, Siam Celadon. Then a stroll throught the streets lined with textile shops and trinkets pouring out onto the pavement from the shops. Stopped at a stone/gem shop and Dad displayed his bartering skills with a Nepalese merchant, getting a few bits of polished glass for a steep price!! Onwards toward Warorot Market, just the place is you want to buy some smoked fish (the flies come free). A few bags of tea were purchased from the belly of the market. Outside on the West coast of the river flower vendors display their wares for the world to see. Seems to be a huge selection, with them often popping up adorning shrines and temples.
That night it was down the river Ping on a cruise. Dinner was served up with spring rolls appetizer and horses doovers(tm) consisting of pink fatty sausage, brown spicy sausage, mini-hamburgers and some veg. I had a couple of chicken breasts in lemon sauce with fried rice, more than enough! Nobody was deemed brave enough to order "Fried Chicken Knobbly Knees". A walk back through the night market centre found a climber high up on the wall, looked far too much like hard work to get up there with the overhang.
On Sunday was Doi Suthep a long road up the mountain eventually gets you to the bottom of the 300 steps to the temple. After puffing and sweating out way up there we were rewarded with a beautiful temple and good views stretching out across the geographical bowl in which Chiang Mai resides.
After Doi Suthep we stopped off at the Chiang Mai zoo and caught sight of the pandas, who were suprisingly active! One showed of his atheltic prowess as his slithed through a bamboo ladder upside down. I'm sure most people though he was going to fall on his head. Some some other animals included a very smelly hippo!
Sunday night it was over to the night market for a trek along the packed streets, cruising along through the throngs of people browsing. A little rain caused panic among the vendors and we took the oppurtunity to eat more food, after finding the Wok restaurant. Another decent dinner, I could get used to this!
The next day it was down the food market where there was some packaged frogs for sale. Also took in the nearby flower market. Later on rain appeared as we were going back through the textile and gems shops, the gem-dealers shop seemed to have a hole in it and the water was leaking over his jewelery. Still we managed to jump in a passing songthaew and escape back to the hotel pretty much dry.
Another day it was off in a tuk-tuk for some lunch beside Wat Suan Dok. Some helpful person helped us order as there was no English menu. (If it was down to me everybody would be eating Chicken Fried Rice) They recommended the fish and they were certainly right! It was delicious, simple fried fish in batter but very yummy. Also some chicken with spice maybe cinammon an unusual taste. We then nipped along to the Art Musuem close to the University. The had a nice elephant sculpture, made from smaller elephants. Hard to decribe, guess you just had to see. It is a large barn, but the paintings are mostly modern, no dusty old pictures here. Lots of vibrant colours and some strange paintings. Then we progressed along to Wat Suan Dok, where a huge golden centrepiece blinds you as the sun shines on it fiercely. Just next to it lies a large graveyard. Inside the temple a huge Buddha has company with several smaller Buddhas. Chatted to the monks, who were all from Cambodia for some reason. Not yet picked up a saffron robe though.
After that it was down to the park for some people watching. The power walkers were out in force, on particular chapped seemed to be circling the park every few minutes. A few guys were playing with takraw, a small woven football is used for keepy-ups. When they get serious a net is hauled out and the sport played is a cross between football and volleyball. A woman at the edge of the pond managed to hauk out a fish with her fingers and gave it to an old guy who wandered off outide presumably to cook it. That's some easy dinner.
Shopping at Ban Tawai the next day, an easy taxi ride to get there, but not much point in getting him to wait as we ended up staying there for about 4-5 hours grabbing lunch at a small cafe. Very hot today, but it started to spit rain in the afternoon. Problem was that the available transport was waiting for people who were shopping, so a bit stuck. Still after a bit of confusion, a policeman helped us out and somebody phoned for transport. Turned out to be a samlor which is basically a motorbike with a sidecar, so the three of us squeezed on to the sidecar for the short ride back to the main road. About a minute later we had secured a ride on a yellow songthaew going back to Chiang Mai, and then a red one back to the hotel, here they have a well-integrated transport system! Just not sure about the prices, the longest ride was the cheapest...
Dinner was at the Old Chiang Mai Cultural Centre. This was a case of sitting on the floor with a triangular cushion for support. Fried chicken and curried pork, cabbage, lettuce, sticky rice, normal rice & rice crispies (not the cereal!) were served up. Then some dancers were up on stage with huge long fingernails doing the (wait for it....) fingernail dance. Another danceer was a rather large geezer doing the sword dance, dancing amongst the swords on the ground and carrying them in his mouth.
Next day it was off into the Mae Sa valley for a stroll through the orchid farm. While not all the orchids were in bloom, more than enough were open for a colourful display. Quite a large area, they must of had thousands of plants. Afterwards is was on to the snake farm. Just in time for the show. The show was excellent, with the compere and his funny voice. "You can kiss the snake, but don't let the snake kiss you". It's not everyday you get to kiss a python. They snakes were almost in the crowd. Somebodys foot was almost fed to the big snake! Then they threw a bit of rope from a sack into the crowd, after saying all this stuff about jumping snakes, causing havoc. Half the people were running away!
After another hard day it was time to pop across the river to Dukes for a huge dinner of salad, fried, spare ribs & beans, yummy!
We decided to head south to Mae Wang elephant camp and hopefully see the elephants. However on arrival it was down a steep dirt path and over a shaky bamboo bridge, not for Mum! Dad & I went for a trek through the forest on the elephant. You climb up a small platform and then step on the elephants head to get on the seat. It was fairly steep forest which the elephant was clambering up. He seemed somewhat reluctant on the downward section which earned him a very solid CRACK on his head from the mahout. Then Nelly went back to the start and into the river to cool down and quick banana snack from Dad.
We stopped off at a small roadside restaurant and had a nosy round the local market, picking up a bag of tangerines. After a bit of fried rice with veg it was back to Chiang Mai and check out a few more temples on the way. That night it was off to a huge local restaurant which was certainly an experience. A huge buffet which you cook yourself at the table. Inside the table a bucket of hot coals is placed. Above this lies something like an upturned metal bucket which provides the hot plate to cook the meat, round the edge water is poured so you can boil the vegetables as well. Cheap, cheerful and fun, but very hot with the coals!!
The next day it was into the proper cooking as we took a Thai cooking course. This involved a trip down to a nearby market to pickup the ingredients. The instructor showed us the different veg & fruits available in Thailand. Then we traipsed back into the kitchen to cook up a storm in our woks! We managed to (mostly) make edible food. I somehow got volunteered to mash up the 20-odd chilies used in the curry paste, bashing away at a large mortar and pestle, and trying to keep it in the bowl. Plenty of food anyway, with 4-5 dishes prepared and eaten. Still don't like food as spicy as the Thais though.
After the cooking we went off to the Night Safari a short distance out of town, Chiang Mai's newest tourist attraction. We had a bried walk round the first trail but then turned back to ensure catching the English version of the tram rides. It was good as the animals came really close to you and provide an excellent view of them. Lots of deer, zebra, wildebeest, giraffes and elephants were nearby for our viewing pleasure.
A quiter weekend was upahead for the parents with a bit of relaxing by the pool, all these activities had tired them out. I meanwhile had to let Crawford buy me beer!! He was working in Bangkok and decided to pop up to Chiang Mai for a week for a spot of chilling.
We nipped across to the riverside restaurant for some decent Thai food and then looped back to the Kafe and the Blues bar for some SRV, then onto some other bar probably things were a bit hazy by then.
Next night we all went out for a buffet meal in the Mae Ping beer garden, before popping along to a bar or two with Crawford for some late night discussion about how bad Rangers have been this season :)
I made the obligatory visa run on Tuesday, but travelling VIP class which means a big decent seat with headrest and legrest. After the usual bureaucrocy another 30 days in Thailand. As the bus didn't leave for another few hours, I wandered back to the bus station from the border, getting alternately sunburnt and soaked by the changing weather. I then tried to find a park which I had seen signposted on the way into the bus station, but it would not be found. So instead I wandered into some goverment office which had a sign saying free internet, although I don't think they were expecting Johnny Farang to turn on their doorstep.
Next day it was off to Pom Pui, an Italian restaurant lurking in the sois of Chian Mai, for a long lunch to say goodbye to the parents. After fair too much food, jumped in a tuk-tuk and tried to find Fern Forest Cafe a misty garden cafe again hiding in the backstreets. After much navigating we stumbled upon the cafe and a welcome cool drink of ice-coffee. Soon it was time to say the goodbye, three weeks had whizzed by already and the parents were heading back to Sunny Glasgow. In a couple of days Crawford leaves and then for me it will be back on the bike for a few weeks or cycling, circling back to Chiang Mai for the 6th June, training it down to Bangkok, flying over to Macau, ferrying across to Hong Kong, and busing into China! (If all goes well...)
Come Friday, we went and had a nosy round the large Kad Suan Kaew shopping centre, a decent place to escape the afternoon heat. Just stay away from the Karoke Centre if you want peace and quiet. My apartment is closeby, so popped back there to have a look around and view my Songkran pictures taken with a waterproof disposable camera. Then on to have a strange tasting Italian strawberry soda at a local cafe, while Mum ended up with something like plum-coffee. Aaah, the joys of ordering food & drink in a foreign country. Back down the hotel for a spot of dinner in the beer garden, I opted for a big fish (tumtim?) on a plate while my parents pigged out on a five course dinner :)
Next day, a long lunch in a little garden cafe, Siam Celadon. Then a stroll throught the streets lined with textile shops and trinkets pouring out onto the pavement from the shops. Stopped at a stone/gem shop and Dad displayed his bartering skills with a Nepalese merchant, getting a few bits of polished glass for a steep price!! Onwards toward Warorot Market, just the place is you want to buy some smoked fish (the flies come free). A few bags of tea were purchased from the belly of the market. Outside on the West coast of the river flower vendors display their wares for the world to see. Seems to be a huge selection, with them often popping up adorning shrines and temples.
That night it was down the river Ping on a cruise. Dinner was served up with spring rolls appetizer and horses doovers(tm) consisting of pink fatty sausage, brown spicy sausage, mini-hamburgers and some veg. I had a couple of chicken breasts in lemon sauce with fried rice, more than enough! Nobody was deemed brave enough to order "Fried Chicken Knobbly Knees". A walk back through the night market centre found a climber high up on the wall, looked far too much like hard work to get up there with the overhang.
On Sunday was Doi Suthep a long road up the mountain eventually gets you to the bottom of the 300 steps to the temple. After puffing and sweating out way up there we were rewarded with a beautiful temple and good views stretching out across the geographical bowl in which Chiang Mai resides.
After Doi Suthep we stopped off at the Chiang Mai zoo and caught sight of the pandas, who were suprisingly active! One showed of his atheltic prowess as his slithed through a bamboo ladder upside down. I'm sure most people though he was going to fall on his head. Some some other animals included a very smelly hippo!
Sunday night it was over to the night market for a trek along the packed streets, cruising along through the throngs of people browsing. A little rain caused panic among the vendors and we took the oppurtunity to eat more food, after finding the Wok restaurant. Another decent dinner, I could get used to this!
The next day it was down the food market where there was some packaged frogs for sale. Also took in the nearby flower market. Later on rain appeared as we were going back through the textile and gems shops, the gem-dealers shop seemed to have a hole in it and the water was leaking over his jewelery. Still we managed to jump in a passing songthaew and escape back to the hotel pretty much dry.
Another day it was off in a tuk-tuk for some lunch beside Wat Suan Dok. Some helpful person helped us order as there was no English menu. (If it was down to me everybody would be eating Chicken Fried Rice) They recommended the fish and they were certainly right! It was delicious, simple fried fish in batter but very yummy. Also some chicken with spice maybe cinammon an unusual taste. We then nipped along to the Art Musuem close to the University. The had a nice elephant sculpture, made from smaller elephants. Hard to decribe, guess you just had to see. It is a large barn, but the paintings are mostly modern, no dusty old pictures here. Lots of vibrant colours and some strange paintings. Then we progressed along to Wat Suan Dok, where a huge golden centrepiece blinds you as the sun shines on it fiercely. Just next to it lies a large graveyard. Inside the temple a huge Buddha has company with several smaller Buddhas. Chatted to the monks, who were all from Cambodia for some reason. Not yet picked up a saffron robe though.
After that it was down to the park for some people watching. The power walkers were out in force, on particular chapped seemed to be circling the park every few minutes. A few guys were playing with takraw, a small woven football is used for keepy-ups. When they get serious a net is hauled out and the sport played is a cross between football and volleyball. A woman at the edge of the pond managed to hauk out a fish with her fingers and gave it to an old guy who wandered off outide presumably to cook it. That's some easy dinner.
Shopping at Ban Tawai the next day, an easy taxi ride to get there, but not much point in getting him to wait as we ended up staying there for about 4-5 hours grabbing lunch at a small cafe. Very hot today, but it started to spit rain in the afternoon. Problem was that the available transport was waiting for people who were shopping, so a bit stuck. Still after a bit of confusion, a policeman helped us out and somebody phoned for transport. Turned out to be a samlor which is basically a motorbike with a sidecar, so the three of us squeezed on to the sidecar for the short ride back to the main road. About a minute later we had secured a ride on a yellow songthaew going back to Chiang Mai, and then a red one back to the hotel, here they have a well-integrated transport system! Just not sure about the prices, the longest ride was the cheapest...
Dinner was at the Old Chiang Mai Cultural Centre. This was a case of sitting on the floor with a triangular cushion for support. Fried chicken and curried pork, cabbage, lettuce, sticky rice, normal rice & rice crispies (not the cereal!) were served up. Then some dancers were up on stage with huge long fingernails doing the (wait for it....) fingernail dance. Another danceer was a rather large geezer doing the sword dance, dancing amongst the swords on the ground and carrying them in his mouth.
Next day it was off into the Mae Sa valley for a stroll through the orchid farm. While not all the orchids were in bloom, more than enough were open for a colourful display. Quite a large area, they must of had thousands of plants. Afterwards is was on to the snake farm. Just in time for the show. The show was excellent, with the compere and his funny voice. "You can kiss the snake, but don't let the snake kiss you". It's not everyday you get to kiss a python. They snakes were almost in the crowd. Somebodys foot was almost fed to the big snake! Then they threw a bit of rope from a sack into the crowd, after saying all this stuff about jumping snakes, causing havoc. Half the people were running away!
After another hard day it was time to pop across the river to Dukes for a huge dinner of salad, fried, spare ribs & beans, yummy!
We decided to head south to Mae Wang elephant camp and hopefully see the elephants. However on arrival it was down a steep dirt path and over a shaky bamboo bridge, not for Mum! Dad & I went for a trek through the forest on the elephant. You climb up a small platform and then step on the elephants head to get on the seat. It was fairly steep forest which the elephant was clambering up. He seemed somewhat reluctant on the downward section which earned him a very solid CRACK on his head from the mahout. Then Nelly went back to the start and into the river to cool down and quick banana snack from Dad.
We stopped off at a small roadside restaurant and had a nosy round the local market, picking up a bag of tangerines. After a bit of fried rice with veg it was back to Chiang Mai and check out a few more temples on the way. That night it was off to a huge local restaurant which was certainly an experience. A huge buffet which you cook yourself at the table. Inside the table a bucket of hot coals is placed. Above this lies something like an upturned metal bucket which provides the hot plate to cook the meat, round the edge water is poured so you can boil the vegetables as well. Cheap, cheerful and fun, but very hot with the coals!!
The next day it was into the proper cooking as we took a Thai cooking course. This involved a trip down to a nearby market to pickup the ingredients. The instructor showed us the different veg & fruits available in Thailand. Then we traipsed back into the kitchen to cook up a storm in our woks! We managed to (mostly) make edible food. I somehow got volunteered to mash up the 20-odd chilies used in the curry paste, bashing away at a large mortar and pestle, and trying to keep it in the bowl. Plenty of food anyway, with 4-5 dishes prepared and eaten. Still don't like food as spicy as the Thais though.
After the cooking we went off to the Night Safari a short distance out of town, Chiang Mai's newest tourist attraction. We had a bried walk round the first trail but then turned back to ensure catching the English version of the tram rides. It was good as the animals came really close to you and provide an excellent view of them. Lots of deer, zebra, wildebeest, giraffes and elephants were nearby for our viewing pleasure.
A quiter weekend was upahead for the parents with a bit of relaxing by the pool, all these activities had tired them out. I meanwhile had to let Crawford buy me beer!! He was working in Bangkok and decided to pop up to Chiang Mai for a week for a spot of chilling.
We nipped across to the riverside restaurant for some decent Thai food and then looped back to the Kafe and the Blues bar for some SRV, then onto some other bar probably things were a bit hazy by then.
Next night we all went out for a buffet meal in the Mae Ping beer garden, before popping along to a bar or two with Crawford for some late night discussion about how bad Rangers have been this season :)
I made the obligatory visa run on Tuesday, but travelling VIP class which means a big decent seat with headrest and legrest. After the usual bureaucrocy another 30 days in Thailand. As the bus didn't leave for another few hours, I wandered back to the bus station from the border, getting alternately sunburnt and soaked by the changing weather. I then tried to find a park which I had seen signposted on the way into the bus station, but it would not be found. So instead I wandered into some goverment office which had a sign saying free internet, although I don't think they were expecting Johnny Farang to turn on their doorstep.
Next day it was off to Pom Pui, an Italian restaurant lurking in the sois of Chian Mai, for a long lunch to say goodbye to the parents. After fair too much food, jumped in a tuk-tuk and tried to find Fern Forest Cafe a misty garden cafe again hiding in the backstreets. After much navigating we stumbled upon the cafe and a welcome cool drink of ice-coffee. Soon it was time to say the goodbye, three weeks had whizzed by already and the parents were heading back to Sunny Glasgow. In a couple of days Crawford leaves and then for me it will be back on the bike for a few weeks or cycling, circling back to Chiang Mai for the 6th June, training it down to Bangkok, flying over to Macau, ferrying across to Hong Kong, and busing into China! (If all goes well...)
Friday, April 28, 2006
Songkran
And so the Songkran festival arrived, this is when Thai's celebrate the New Year by dousing each other in water. Not a bad idea in this heat. It is supposed to be a gentle pouring of water on the shoulder, but throwing a bucket of water in a motorcyclist face seemed to be more enjoyable for the Chiang Mai residents!
I had planned to pick up a waterproof disposable camera to take a few snaps, didn't seem a good idea to take out my digital camera into the street, giving that elctronics and water have never been the best of buddies. However, my plan failed just like my memory as when I went to buy one the Kodak shop was shut. At least I managed to pick one up a different branch. Walking along beside the moat, people are dredging up buckets of sludgy moat water (at least it had been cleaned in anticipation of Songkran) and chucking them in the air. Water pistols and pumps are the weapon of choice for the festival which lasts from 3-10 days depending on the keeness of the participants, out in the country they start early.
The main city area was in general chaos as revellers took to the streets fully armed with buckets & pistols. Crawling along the road were pickup trucks with an oil barrel filled with icy water to splash unsuspecting victims, brrr. I think I wasn't dry for four days. Actually it mostly eases off as night falls, and you can go out for some grub and hopefully not get soaked. All in all an interesting experience!
I had planned to pick up a waterproof disposable camera to take a few snaps, didn't seem a good idea to take out my digital camera into the street, giving that elctronics and water have never been the best of buddies. However, my plan failed just like my memory as when I went to buy one the Kodak shop was shut. At least I managed to pick one up a different branch. Walking along beside the moat, people are dredging up buckets of sludgy moat water (at least it had been cleaned in anticipation of Songkran) and chucking them in the air. Water pistols and pumps are the weapon of choice for the festival which lasts from 3-10 days depending on the keeness of the participants, out in the country they start early.
The main city area was in general chaos as revellers took to the streets fully armed with buckets & pistols. Crawling along the road were pickup trucks with an oil barrel filled with icy water to splash unsuspecting victims, brrr. I think I wasn't dry for four days. Actually it mostly eases off as night falls, and you can go out for some grub and hopefully not get soaked. All in all an interesting experience!
Saturday, March 04, 2006
CM continued
After two weeks of Thai classes I can now say "I like chicken" and a few other useful sentences. Whether any Thai people can understand me is still open for debate. Cue quick Thai Lesson:
Thai langauge depends heavily on tones. There are 5 tones - low,middle,high,falling & rising. So "glai" with middle tone means far and "glai" with a falling tone means near. Unfortunately unless you are used to listening in for the tones they both sounds identical.
Although sometimes it is easier:
Nam - water
Som - orange
nam som - orange juice (i.e. water from orange)
pla - fish
nam pla - fish sauce (water from fish)
kaang - hard
nam kaang - ice (water hard)
nam dahn - sugar (water from erm.. sugar cane??)
And that concludes todays lesson.
There was a total of 12 people starting the course, but 2 swapped to the morning class, one opted for private lessons (as he could already speak some thai), another one dropped out, so down to 8 people. Supposed to study an additional hour for each other in the classroom, as the course goes quick. Need to try and remember lots of new words each day, although I'm finding that they soon drop out my head after a few days :( We even get homework! Writing a short story each day 7-10 sentences.
The weather is getting HOT, hardly ever see a cloud. Although sometimes a bit hazy maybe from smoke as the fields get cleared with fires.
A big festival happens next month, Songkran, seems to consists of people running about with water pistols, sounds like fun.
Thai langauge depends heavily on tones. There are 5 tones - low,middle,high,falling & rising. So "glai" with middle tone means far and "glai" with a falling tone means near. Unfortunately unless you are used to listening in for the tones they both sounds identical.
Although sometimes it is easier:
Nam - water
Som - orange
nam som - orange juice (i.e. water from orange)
pla - fish
nam pla - fish sauce (water from fish)
kaang - hard
nam kaang - ice (water hard)
nam dahn - sugar (water from erm.. sugar cane??)
And that concludes todays lesson.
There was a total of 12 people starting the course, but 2 swapped to the morning class, one opted for private lessons (as he could already speak some thai), another one dropped out, so down to 8 people. Supposed to study an additional hour for each other in the classroom, as the course goes quick. Need to try and remember lots of new words each day, although I'm finding that they soon drop out my head after a few days :( We even get homework! Writing a short story each day 7-10 sentences.
The weather is getting HOT, hardly ever see a cloud. Although sometimes a bit hazy maybe from smoke as the fields get cleared with fires.
A big festival happens next month, Songkran, seems to consists of people running about with water pistols, sounds like fun.
Friday, February 10, 2006
Chiang Mai
After much footering about and miscommunication I found somewhere to plonk my rucksack for the next 3 months. Staying at a place just outside the North-East corner of the old city called Pacific Mansion. Nice to be in one place for a while and have things like a fridge for cheese & milk (and cereal for the first time in a year) and a kettle for Pot noodles (actually some Thai version, also available as rice porridge!) I have Milo but I need a Milo container before opening it. That should confuse some people who don't know what (or who??) Milo is!
Seeing as how my conversations in Thai generally follow the Hello, Thank you, Goodbye format, I decided to sign up for some Thai Language course at the AUA. Gah, now I need to remember how to use my brain for learning. I'm disregarding all those who say I should learn English. My spelling mistakes are because I'm not a native English speaker, I'm Scottish.
Found a few good cheap places for food. Actually one of them being the mall. A lot of malls in Asia seems to have food centres tucked away in the basement or flying high on the top floor. These places have a decent selection of vendors selling grub (no not actual grubs, you have to go to the outside markets for that!). You exchange your baht for coupons and pay with these for some reason. I used to try and work out what I would have, how much it costs, and then exchange my cash. But a much easier way it to get a 100 baht of coupons and then get your change. For some reason you can't hold on the coupons. In Bangkok some of the places have swish electronic cards instead of these coupons.
Also, just next door is a small restaurant. Some pretty spicy food, sometimes. I ended up with chilli tongue, where your mouth just throbs relenteless. Taking a swill of water cools your mouth for about 5 seconds before the fire restarts. Apparently the best way to cure is to eat plain rice. Which is fine until you realise that there is a tiny green chilli hiding at the bottom of the rice. A tastebud firework, a tongue scorching bonanza!
In a fit of erm.. fitness type stuff I bought another bike to whizz around Chiang Mai on. A useful way of getting from A to B, as long as it's not too hot. Have to try and get out of bed earlier and do the cycling in the morning while they day is cool(ish). There is a big mountain which looms over Chiang Mai and my room. Maybe before the end of my time in Chiang Mai I shall try and cycle to the top without dying. Unforutnately it's a mile high, so I need to build up to it!!
Went on a cycle to Ban Tawai, a self-proclaimed Tourist Village. Lots and lots of shops, selling all sorts of handicrafts and not so handy crafts. With signs like "Very Good and Very Cheap" or "Any price (as long as we make profit)". Reminded me of the stalls on Khao San Road with say "Buy/Sell Anything!". One stall even took that the terseness further with a sign simply proudly proclaiming "ANYTHING!!". However the best thing in this village, clearly was the seven foot Predator "robot" made from scrap metal. I want one! It would look excellent guarding an outside gate of a house.
Seeing as how my conversations in Thai generally follow the Hello, Thank you, Goodbye format, I decided to sign up for some Thai Language course at the AUA. Gah, now I need to remember how to use my brain for learning. I'm disregarding all those who say I should learn English. My spelling mistakes are because I'm not a native English speaker, I'm Scottish.
Found a few good cheap places for food. Actually one of them being the mall. A lot of malls in Asia seems to have food centres tucked away in the basement or flying high on the top floor. These places have a decent selection of vendors selling grub (no not actual grubs, you have to go to the outside markets for that!). You exchange your baht for coupons and pay with these for some reason. I used to try and work out what I would have, how much it costs, and then exchange my cash. But a much easier way it to get a 100 baht of coupons and then get your change. For some reason you can't hold on the coupons. In Bangkok some of the places have swish electronic cards instead of these coupons.
Also, just next door is a small restaurant. Some pretty spicy food, sometimes. I ended up with chilli tongue, where your mouth just throbs relenteless. Taking a swill of water cools your mouth for about 5 seconds before the fire restarts. Apparently the best way to cure is to eat plain rice. Which is fine until you realise that there is a tiny green chilli hiding at the bottom of the rice. A tastebud firework, a tongue scorching bonanza!
In a fit of erm.. fitness type stuff I bought another bike to whizz around Chiang Mai on. A useful way of getting from A to B, as long as it's not too hot. Have to try and get out of bed earlier and do the cycling in the morning while they day is cool(ish). There is a big mountain which looms over Chiang Mai and my room. Maybe before the end of my time in Chiang Mai I shall try and cycle to the top without dying. Unforutnately it's a mile high, so I need to build up to it!!
Went on a cycle to Ban Tawai, a self-proclaimed Tourist Village. Lots and lots of shops, selling all sorts of handicrafts and not so handy crafts. With signs like "Very Good and Very Cheap" or "Any price (as long as we make profit)". Reminded me of the stalls on Khao San Road with say "Buy/Sell Anything!". One stall even took that the terseness further with a sign simply proudly proclaiming "ANYTHING!!". However the best thing in this village, clearly was the seven foot Predator "robot" made from scrap metal. I want one! It would look excellent guarding an outside gate of a house.
Thursday, January 26, 2006
Bangok Pt II
Oh yeah, another new thing in Bangkok the Siam Paragon. A big giant new shopping mall. It's kinda of more on the posh sides, with a gourmet supermarket and the like. But the most interesting thing was the 3D TV, no stupid glasses needed. It works suprisingly well, but not sure you wouldn't get a sore head after watching a lot of it. The packets of M&M's just burst out of the screen!
Joined onto the mall was the latest tourist attraction the Oceanarium. Comparatively expensive at 450bt, but didn't seem to detract the visitors as it got pretty busy. Lots of weird sea creatures swimming about, I liked the rays with the massive long tails. They were supposed to be doing a feeding show, but they didn't seem very hungry and ignored the food. There was a couple of seals there that weren't supposed to be there, but they had an empty display case due to the penguins being banned because of the dangers of bird flu!
They had a walkthrough tunnel and giant 6m depth tank, so the amount of water must be huge, just hope there isn't any cracks. They plonked a diver into the deep tank and they were talking away in Thai via a underwater microphone.
A small photo gallery finished the Oceanarium off, where you went to the "Exit", this being the entrance to the obligatory gift shop.
One last thing, whats with the strange drinks in the fridges of the 7-11 nowadays? There is Hello Kitty Collagen drink and Pepsi Latte, had the world gone mad??
Joined onto the mall was the latest tourist attraction the Oceanarium. Comparatively expensive at 450bt, but didn't seem to detract the visitors as it got pretty busy. Lots of weird sea creatures swimming about, I liked the rays with the massive long tails. They were supposed to be doing a feeding show, but they didn't seem very hungry and ignored the food. There was a couple of seals there that weren't supposed to be there, but they had an empty display case due to the penguins being banned because of the dangers of bird flu!
They had a walkthrough tunnel and giant 6m depth tank, so the amount of water must be huge, just hope there isn't any cracks. They plonked a diver into the deep tank and they were talking away in Thai via a underwater microphone.
A small photo gallery finished the Oceanarium off, where you went to the "Exit", this being the entrance to the obligatory gift shop.
One last thing, whats with the strange drinks in the fridges of the 7-11 nowadays? There is Hello Kitty Collagen drink and Pepsi Latte, had the world gone mad??
Monday, January 23, 2006
Back in Bangkok
So I had a flight with AirAsia back from Hanoi to Bangkok. Get to the airport with plenty of time. That's the thing about planes, lots of hanging about. Circled the airport like a bored tiger in a cage. The most interesting thing was watching these guys clamber about the roof with no safety harness moving among the beams to fix the lights. Rather them than me! After paying taxes on the ticket, you then have to pay the $14 departure tax, presumably it's one of these don't pay don't leave thingies.
Anyway, we defy gravity and pull away into the stratosphere (or wherever planes fly) and all is going well, it's only a 90 minute flight in theory....
Yep, some geezer in Bangkok decided to stage an airshow for Childrens Day tomorrow. Today happen to be the rehersal. Nobody seemed to realise that flying fighter jets and the like in and out Asia's busiest commercial airport, would cause a few problems, havoc in fact!
We ran out of fuel and had to parachute into Bangkok. Not really, we got diverted to Udon Thani airport, where we sat on the runaway for an hour or so. Eventually the captain said we would be taking off shortly now that they had refuelled. The guy behind me excitedly exclaimed "I knew it! I knew we were refuelling!". I didn't think much of his deduction powers, given that the large refuelling truck outside the window was attached to us via a large refuelling hose.
So off back up into the sky, where we circled Bangkok for another hour or so, burning up all this pesky fuel we had on board. We landed without incident (thankfully!) Then we get one of the shuttle buses to the immigration as we appeared to have landed nowhere near it. Typically I was stopped from going on the first bus, but was the first person on the second bus. Meaning that a busload of slow people were in immigration before me, I didn't even have any hand luggage, no fair!!
There is a separate queue for Thai Nationals and foreigners. In the foreigners queue was a Thai family, so one of the officals waved them to the empty Thai queue, this caused a lot of foreigners to assume that a quicker queue was possible and jumped behind this Thai family. The offical then pointed out the sign, much to the digruntlement of the tourists. To the back of the queue with the lot of ya!
After getting through immigration it was back in another queue this time for taxis, not going anywhere quick. At all. Chatted with a guy, going to the same place Khao San Road, got another couple of people and flagged down one of the taxis for a fixed fare (600bt). Only trouble was he was completely blocked in, made it out eventually somehow and into the traffic jam that is primetime Bangkok. Got into a room about 19:00. My flight was supposed to arrive at 14:30. Enough time to grab a bite to eat and meet up with Steve for a beer or few down at Soi Rambutri. Friday night and the place was heaving. Remembered how strong Chang is the next day...
Saturday, just had a stroll around Banglamphu. I thought I was heading straight South but then I turned up to the North of where I was staying, very odd. A quiet day, then when I tried to get to sleep I got munched on my bed bugs or some other horrible nocturnal insect, the previous night I had just crashed out so didn't noticed them. Spend half the night swotting the little buggers.
Unsuprisingly decided to move guesthouse the next day. I went into another nearby guesthouse where a customer was asking when they would get rid of the begbugs, about turn, quick march! I decided I would try and get a guesthouse near the BTS stations. Had a flick through my guidebook and found a place, but the taxi driver went elsewhere, so I tried somewhere else and as I walking towards a taxi pulled up and two people jumped out and checked in before me. No more rooms. I wandered around couldn't find anywhere so back to the guidebook, tried a different area of town the strangely named Soi Ngam Duphli. Got a place there, but wasn't sure where it was in relation to the Sky Train, not very near as it happens, but at least if was close(ish) to the Lumphini metro.
Met up with Steve again for a few quiet beers on Sukhumvit this time. Bit pricier round this area, seems like the Costa Del Sol of Bangkok sometimes!
I had booked my train ticket, nice and easy 2 minutes, not like India! This time I would be sure not to lose it. I had a look around about my new guesthouse and stumbled across a few small restaurant shacks. Didn't think there was much here but when I turned the corner there was about 50 buses parked there, this was the Suan Lum night bazzar. Loads of shops and a giant food court, just the place to devour a chicken! Like a lot of food courts, there is a coupon counter where you exchange your bits of paper for other bits of paper. Pretty tasty! They had some bad band playing way down at the front of the stage, thankfully far enough away to ignore :)
Anyway, we defy gravity and pull away into the stratosphere (or wherever planes fly) and all is going well, it's only a 90 minute flight in theory....
Yep, some geezer in Bangkok decided to stage an airshow for Childrens Day tomorrow. Today happen to be the rehersal. Nobody seemed to realise that flying fighter jets and the like in and out Asia's busiest commercial airport, would cause a few problems, havoc in fact!
We ran out of fuel and had to parachute into Bangkok. Not really, we got diverted to Udon Thani airport, where we sat on the runaway for an hour or so. Eventually the captain said we would be taking off shortly now that they had refuelled. The guy behind me excitedly exclaimed "I knew it! I knew we were refuelling!". I didn't think much of his deduction powers, given that the large refuelling truck outside the window was attached to us via a large refuelling hose.
So off back up into the sky, where we circled Bangkok for another hour or so, burning up all this pesky fuel we had on board. We landed without incident (thankfully!) Then we get one of the shuttle buses to the immigration as we appeared to have landed nowhere near it. Typically I was stopped from going on the first bus, but was the first person on the second bus. Meaning that a busload of slow people were in immigration before me, I didn't even have any hand luggage, no fair!!
There is a separate queue for Thai Nationals and foreigners. In the foreigners queue was a Thai family, so one of the officals waved them to the empty Thai queue, this caused a lot of foreigners to assume that a quicker queue was possible and jumped behind this Thai family. The offical then pointed out the sign, much to the digruntlement of the tourists. To the back of the queue with the lot of ya!
After getting through immigration it was back in another queue this time for taxis, not going anywhere quick. At all. Chatted with a guy, going to the same place Khao San Road, got another couple of people and flagged down one of the taxis for a fixed fare (600bt). Only trouble was he was completely blocked in, made it out eventually somehow and into the traffic jam that is primetime Bangkok. Got into a room about 19:00. My flight was supposed to arrive at 14:30. Enough time to grab a bite to eat and meet up with Steve for a beer or few down at Soi Rambutri. Friday night and the place was heaving. Remembered how strong Chang is the next day...
Saturday, just had a stroll around Banglamphu. I thought I was heading straight South but then I turned up to the North of where I was staying, very odd. A quiet day, then when I tried to get to sleep I got munched on my bed bugs or some other horrible nocturnal insect, the previous night I had just crashed out so didn't noticed them. Spend half the night swotting the little buggers.
Unsuprisingly decided to move guesthouse the next day. I went into another nearby guesthouse where a customer was asking when they would get rid of the begbugs, about turn, quick march! I decided I would try and get a guesthouse near the BTS stations. Had a flick through my guidebook and found a place, but the taxi driver went elsewhere, so I tried somewhere else and as I walking towards a taxi pulled up and two people jumped out and checked in before me. No more rooms. I wandered around couldn't find anywhere so back to the guidebook, tried a different area of town the strangely named Soi Ngam Duphli. Got a place there, but wasn't sure where it was in relation to the Sky Train, not very near as it happens, but at least if was close(ish) to the Lumphini metro.
Met up with Steve again for a few quiet beers on Sukhumvit this time. Bit pricier round this area, seems like the Costa Del Sol of Bangkok sometimes!
I had booked my train ticket, nice and easy 2 minutes, not like India! This time I would be sure not to lose it. I had a look around about my new guesthouse and stumbled across a few small restaurant shacks. Didn't think there was much here but when I turned the corner there was about 50 buses parked there, this was the Suan Lum night bazzar. Loads of shops and a giant food court, just the place to devour a chicken! Like a lot of food courts, there is a coupon counter where you exchange your bits of paper for other bits of paper. Pretty tasty! They had some bad band playing way down at the front of the stage, thankfully far enough away to ignore :)
Wednesday, January 11, 2006
Hanoi
Into Hanoi, I booked into a nice hotel for Christmas. It had wood furniture! Good to stay in somewhere a bit classier for a few days. Hanoi is one of these places where I find it incredibly easy to get lost. I now walk about with a LP map in my back pocket, it makes no difference. I had a small map with the hotel card, shoved in my back pocket. After walking around I tried to head back to the hotel, I was standing on the street corner looking at the map and the street names. Confused as to where my hotel was, of course when I looked over my shoulder I realised I was standing outside it, doh!
The hotel staff gave me a sheet of paper announcing their Christmas party starting at 20:00. So I went down to see what was happening. The entrance had been transformed with tables covered in food & drink. I was suprised they had gone to so much effort. Well, until I looked closer. The drink was mostly coke, wiith a few bottles of beer that wouldn't last long. The food seemed a little strange, plates of fruit, strange little sausages in wrappers cut in half, slices of bread and Laughing Cow cheese triangles. They fired off some glitter rockets outside. Five minutes later some old woman was screaming at the manger's kid for some reason. He was sulking at the argument continued. Then he grabbed another gliter rocket from beside the Christmas tree and ran towards the woman, but was restrained in time. He looked like a little spolit brat. Six year old with a red mohican, what's that all about? That was the most interesting thing at the party, anyway I had tickets for the water puppets, only a ten minute walk away.
I went outside on Christmas Eve to make my way to the puppet theatre. However I hadn't counted on the million or so people out on the streets milling around. Still I managed to get there just on time, as I moved through the crowds like a hot knife through butter. Darting left and right, up and down the pavement kerb along the road, dodging the gutters, motorbike, accumulated debris and of course the old people that stop for no explicable reason. At least you don't have people with prams in Asia (yet), just sling the kid over the shoulder and be done with it.
Taking my seat, the show started, James Bond himself couldn't of timed it better. The band on the left playing traditional instruments. One looked like the Vietnamese version of the spoons. Another plucked a single string unfretted instrument, with a vertical whammy bar. The stage was set out with the water at the front and the puppeteers hidden behind the backdrop. Apparently the art form orginated in the rice paddies. I must admitted I was struggling to work out how the done some of the stuff. At first I imagined it was just a puppet on a long horizontal pole as it walked across the stage, but then the characted turned round and walked back. I was sitting there puzzling for a while, but I guess they must be on a rotating disc. Quite clever. Then they puzzled me with the next one. A puppet fishing with a fish swimming around. The puppet is throwing his fishing line in an catches the fish bringin it out the water. I was going for the magic of magnets for this one, but just a guess.
After the performance, time for a quick drink. Popped into the groovily named Funky Munky, after eventually retrieving my change from the barstaff who seemed reluctant to give me my money back, I headed upstairs. Strangely enough bumping into Chris whom had thrashed me at pool in Hue. He was chatting with another London geezer. The drink flowed freely, helped by a few shots of vodka. Then off to the Titanic, for some late night drinks. Upon arriving we realised it was an actual ship. As long as it didn't undock a safe place to drink. They covered the pool table with a few planks of wood, hey presto, the worlds smallest dance floor. A good night, but not so good on Christmas day...
I'd arranged to met up again with Chris for some lunch. Somebody had recommended The Vine, saying it was an English pub. Turned out to be a very posh restaurant. Chris & I sat at the bar rather queasy, shaky and pale. We decided to go somewhere rather less stuffy. Try to drink the hangover away, really didn't work. So a quiet Christmas really, watched a movie on TV and an early night.
Changed over to a cheaper hotel, and went for a few more walks around town. Passed by Ho Chi Minh's mausoleum. It was closed. Situated it a massive square with a large patch of grass intersected with a grid of small path, and lined with grandstands. I caught the changing of the guards where the white uniformed, medalled and armed guards frogmarch from way down the road. Either that or they were doing John Cleese Ministry of Funny Walk impressions. Typical though I didn't have my camera. Maybe not such a bad thing, as other tourists got shooed off from taking photos. Eventually I made it back to the Old Quarter, by this time my shoes were soaked and trashed. The next day some new shoes, and what the hell some new socks for me, it's Christmas! I think my new shoes have rubbed off my pinky toes, ouch!
New Year was fairly quiet. I had located an Irish pub, most of been the only Irish pub in the world that was empty on New Years Eve. Strange, considering it even had a talking leprechaun, what more could you ask for? Oh well, headed back into the tourist centre. Not much happening here either. Chatted with a few Aussies, they were off early the next day, so were having a quiet one. Somebody else had been working here as English Teacher for the past seven months. Midnight came and went with a small cheer, seemed to be more excitement when Chelsea scored.
I decided to head back to Thailand for a few months, China is very cold and it would be nice to unpack somewhere for a bit. I bought a ticket from www.airasia.com the asian equivalent of EasyJet. Cost about $50 once taxes are added, not so bad. Maybe it was cheap because its flying on Friday 13th! I'll just cross my fingers and wiggle my thumbs, that should see me sorted. As I plan to stay a while I tried to get the same Thai visa I had got in Malaysia via the hotel, big mistake, if you want something done right do it yourself.
I decide another purchase was in order, some dairy delights, some cheese! Now you wouldn't think it would be a difficult taks to buy some cheese & biscuits, would you? However in a place where you don't speak the lingo the simplest thing can turn into an ordeal. It actually went smoothly enough, just point to the cheese (some New Zealand Cheddar) and some Ritz biscuits. All was well until I returned home. I cut a slice of the cheese off and popped it in my mouth, hmm softer than I would of imagined, yeeurgh, this aint no cheese!! Turned out to be New Zealand butter, but refrigerated at a low temperature so it cuts like cheese. But all was not lost, my plain biscuits turned out to be oxymoronic "Kraft Cheese" biscuits, saved!
Another recent Christmas purchase was a small MP3 player. Takes 1 AAA batteries, I had bought some for 4000dong, I wanted some more but everywhere else seemed to inflate the price to 15000dong, strange. Well until I found out the batteries last about 5 minutes, hmmm. Makes those bus trips go just that little bit quicker though, if the batteries last. Now I have some groovy music to listen to! Your opinion may not necessarily agree...
Another night I had looked at my LP guide, some seafood restuarants were marked next to West Lake, tonights destination. I'm sure I forgot to take a turn and ended up walking in a massive circle. Still suprisingly after an hour or so I arrived. I guess they don't have many tourists. Not any English spoken. Not to worry I had come prepared with my one word of Vietnamese "Ca" which means fish. If pronounced right. I ended up with most of the staff around me trying to work out what the crazy foreigner wants. Eventually I pointed at a receipt which was lying about with "Ca". Aaaah, then the pointed my to come and pick the fish from a water cage. They brought out a whopper (not a BurgerKing product!), no way I could eat that. After some more gestures and writing it turned out they didn't have any fish less than 1.5kg. Not exactly a one person meal, or two for that! Oh well, back to restaraunts with English menus.
As my time in Vietnam draws to a close I only feel that it is proper that I should distill my hard earned knowledge, so here are the rules of the road in descending order:
5) Use of horn is mandatory at all times, even on empty streets.
4) The biggest vehicle has right of way at all times.
3) Traffic lights, one way roads and traffic signs only apply to other people.
2) Never look behind you before pulling out into traffic.
1) Conserve petrol, drive without lights.
The hotel staff gave me a sheet of paper announcing their Christmas party starting at 20:00. So I went down to see what was happening. The entrance had been transformed with tables covered in food & drink. I was suprised they had gone to so much effort. Well, until I looked closer. The drink was mostly coke, wiith a few bottles of beer that wouldn't last long. The food seemed a little strange, plates of fruit, strange little sausages in wrappers cut in half, slices of bread and Laughing Cow cheese triangles. They fired off some glitter rockets outside. Five minutes later some old woman was screaming at the manger's kid for some reason. He was sulking at the argument continued. Then he grabbed another gliter rocket from beside the Christmas tree and ran towards the woman, but was restrained in time. He looked like a little spolit brat. Six year old with a red mohican, what's that all about? That was the most interesting thing at the party, anyway I had tickets for the water puppets, only a ten minute walk away.
I went outside on Christmas Eve to make my way to the puppet theatre. However I hadn't counted on the million or so people out on the streets milling around. Still I managed to get there just on time, as I moved through the crowds like a hot knife through butter. Darting left and right, up and down the pavement kerb along the road, dodging the gutters, motorbike, accumulated debris and of course the old people that stop for no explicable reason. At least you don't have people with prams in Asia (yet), just sling the kid over the shoulder and be done with it.
Taking my seat, the show started, James Bond himself couldn't of timed it better. The band on the left playing traditional instruments. One looked like the Vietnamese version of the spoons. Another plucked a single string unfretted instrument, with a vertical whammy bar. The stage was set out with the water at the front and the puppeteers hidden behind the backdrop. Apparently the art form orginated in the rice paddies. I must admitted I was struggling to work out how the done some of the stuff. At first I imagined it was just a puppet on a long horizontal pole as it walked across the stage, but then the characted turned round and walked back. I was sitting there puzzling for a while, but I guess they must be on a rotating disc. Quite clever. Then they puzzled me with the next one. A puppet fishing with a fish swimming around. The puppet is throwing his fishing line in an catches the fish bringin it out the water. I was going for the magic of magnets for this one, but just a guess.
After the performance, time for a quick drink. Popped into the groovily named Funky Munky, after eventually retrieving my change from the barstaff who seemed reluctant to give me my money back, I headed upstairs. Strangely enough bumping into Chris whom had thrashed me at pool in Hue. He was chatting with another London geezer. The drink flowed freely, helped by a few shots of vodka. Then off to the Titanic, for some late night drinks. Upon arriving we realised it was an actual ship. As long as it didn't undock a safe place to drink. They covered the pool table with a few planks of wood, hey presto, the worlds smallest dance floor. A good night, but not so good on Christmas day...
I'd arranged to met up again with Chris for some lunch. Somebody had recommended The Vine, saying it was an English pub. Turned out to be a very posh restaurant. Chris & I sat at the bar rather queasy, shaky and pale. We decided to go somewhere rather less stuffy. Try to drink the hangover away, really didn't work. So a quiet Christmas really, watched a movie on TV and an early night.
Changed over to a cheaper hotel, and went for a few more walks around town. Passed by Ho Chi Minh's mausoleum. It was closed. Situated it a massive square with a large patch of grass intersected with a grid of small path, and lined with grandstands. I caught the changing of the guards where the white uniformed, medalled and armed guards frogmarch from way down the road. Either that or they were doing John Cleese Ministry of Funny Walk impressions. Typical though I didn't have my camera. Maybe not such a bad thing, as other tourists got shooed off from taking photos. Eventually I made it back to the Old Quarter, by this time my shoes were soaked and trashed. The next day some new shoes, and what the hell some new socks for me, it's Christmas! I think my new shoes have rubbed off my pinky toes, ouch!
New Year was fairly quiet. I had located an Irish pub, most of been the only Irish pub in the world that was empty on New Years Eve. Strange, considering it even had a talking leprechaun, what more could you ask for? Oh well, headed back into the tourist centre. Not much happening here either. Chatted with a few Aussies, they were off early the next day, so were having a quiet one. Somebody else had been working here as English Teacher for the past seven months. Midnight came and went with a small cheer, seemed to be more excitement when Chelsea scored.
I decided to head back to Thailand for a few months, China is very cold and it would be nice to unpack somewhere for a bit. I bought a ticket from www.airasia.com the asian equivalent of EasyJet. Cost about $50 once taxes are added, not so bad. Maybe it was cheap because its flying on Friday 13th! I'll just cross my fingers and wiggle my thumbs, that should see me sorted. As I plan to stay a while I tried to get the same Thai visa I had got in Malaysia via the hotel, big mistake, if you want something done right do it yourself.
I decide another purchase was in order, some dairy delights, some cheese! Now you wouldn't think it would be a difficult taks to buy some cheese & biscuits, would you? However in a place where you don't speak the lingo the simplest thing can turn into an ordeal. It actually went smoothly enough, just point to the cheese (some New Zealand Cheddar) and some Ritz biscuits. All was well until I returned home. I cut a slice of the cheese off and popped it in my mouth, hmm softer than I would of imagined, yeeurgh, this aint no cheese!! Turned out to be New Zealand butter, but refrigerated at a low temperature so it cuts like cheese. But all was not lost, my plain biscuits turned out to be oxymoronic "Kraft Cheese" biscuits, saved!
Another recent Christmas purchase was a small MP3 player. Takes 1 AAA batteries, I had bought some for 4000dong, I wanted some more but everywhere else seemed to inflate the price to 15000dong, strange. Well until I found out the batteries last about 5 minutes, hmmm. Makes those bus trips go just that little bit quicker though, if the batteries last. Now I have some groovy music to listen to! Your opinion may not necessarily agree...
Another night I had looked at my LP guide, some seafood restuarants were marked next to West Lake, tonights destination. I'm sure I forgot to take a turn and ended up walking in a massive circle. Still suprisingly after an hour or so I arrived. I guess they don't have many tourists. Not any English spoken. Not to worry I had come prepared with my one word of Vietnamese "Ca" which means fish. If pronounced right. I ended up with most of the staff around me trying to work out what the crazy foreigner wants. Eventually I pointed at a receipt which was lying about with "Ca". Aaaah, then the pointed my to come and pick the fish from a water cage. They brought out a whopper (not a BurgerKing product!), no way I could eat that. After some more gestures and writing it turned out they didn't have any fish less than 1.5kg. Not exactly a one person meal, or two for that! Oh well, back to restaraunts with English menus.
As my time in Vietnam draws to a close I only feel that it is proper that I should distill my hard earned knowledge, so here are the rules of the road in descending order:
5) Use of horn is mandatory at all times, even on empty streets.
4) The biggest vehicle has right of way at all times.
3) Traffic lights, one way roads and traffic signs only apply to other people.
2) Never look behind you before pulling out into traffic.
1) Conserve petrol, drive without lights.
Wednesday, January 04, 2006
Hue
Arrived in Hue, and the usual clamour of touts waiting to take you off to their hotel. I went along with one which was a long two minutes away. Yet more rain! A larger place to get lost in than Hoi An. I took a quick motor bike tour round a few bits and pieces. I just went for lunch but got talked into visiting a few place. Banh Mi Bo Kho for lunch. Banh Mi is basically bread (baguette), Bo is beef which means Kho must be soup/stew. One of the nicer dishes I tasted in Vietnamese.
An old pagoda on a hill, where the monks were pruning the leaves of the trees to make them bare. Isn't that what Winter is for? A quick look at the citadel, not really much to see. Stopped off at a place where the machines of war, were on display. Well just really lying on the street. Giant artillery guns, tanks and other reminders of the war. One square armoured vechicle on display looking total impenetrable. Captured by the Vietnamese it said, and you can't just imagine how you could ever capture something like that. The moto driver said he had moved to Hong Kong for five years and then came back. As far as I could work out he fought alongside the US army. He talked about his brother maybe being allowed entry to the US, they were meeting with the embassy next year. His brother fought as lieutant, then the US pulled out.
Popped into the Demilatrized Zone pub, cause I liked the name. Met Chris an English geezer over here for three months, had a few games of pool with him. Actually five and lost every one. Pfff! I wasn't playing bad but just couldn't win a game. Potted all my balls except the black on my first shot, then potted the white and black on my next, grrr. That's not suppose to happen! Chris had picked up a motorbike in Saigon and riding up to Hanoi. Good luck, mate! As I mentioned before the traffic is pretty crazy, but it makes crossing the road an adventure, getting the adrenalin pumping. I fell like I'm playing Frogger. Have to move into an Asian mindset, of letting the motorbikes avoid you. Just walk out on the road and ignore them. The worst think you can do is stop, and give your rabbit caught in the headlight impression, as they invariably will drive behind you if you keep walking. But when you stop dead, problems occur, being whacked by a fast moving vehicle the primary problem. So go with the flow, cross your fingers and start walking!
An old pagoda on a hill, where the monks were pruning the leaves of the trees to make them bare. Isn't that what Winter is for? A quick look at the citadel, not really much to see. Stopped off at a place where the machines of war, were on display. Well just really lying on the street. Giant artillery guns, tanks and other reminders of the war. One square armoured vechicle on display looking total impenetrable. Captured by the Vietnamese it said, and you can't just imagine how you could ever capture something like that. The moto driver said he had moved to Hong Kong for five years and then came back. As far as I could work out he fought alongside the US army. He talked about his brother maybe being allowed entry to the US, they were meeting with the embassy next year. His brother fought as lieutant, then the US pulled out.
Popped into the Demilatrized Zone pub, cause I liked the name. Met Chris an English geezer over here for three months, had a few games of pool with him. Actually five and lost every one. Pfff! I wasn't playing bad but just couldn't win a game. Potted all my balls except the black on my first shot, then potted the white and black on my next, grrr. That's not suppose to happen! Chris had picked up a motorbike in Saigon and riding up to Hanoi. Good luck, mate! As I mentioned before the traffic is pretty crazy, but it makes crossing the road an adventure, getting the adrenalin pumping. I fell like I'm playing Frogger. Have to move into an Asian mindset, of letting the motorbikes avoid you. Just walk out on the road and ignore them. The worst think you can do is stop, and give your rabbit caught in the headlight impression, as they invariably will drive behind you if you keep walking. But when you stop dead, problems occur, being whacked by a fast moving vehicle the primary problem. So go with the flow, cross your fingers and start walking!
Hoi An
Hoi An is the next stop on the tourist route. Most backpackers buy open tickets from Saigon to Hanoi, where you can stop off at certain points. A bit insular, but cheap at around $20 for the whole bus ticket. Lots of shops offering suits and silks for various prices, probably depending on how rich they think you are. The central river had risen to the point of flooding. A bit more rain and I would be hailing boats to get about. Just a couple of nights here as I wanted to head to Hanoi for Chistmas. But being a small places not so much to do anyway. After a walk about town, I grabbed some of the local grub. Hoi An seems to have it's own special food. I popped into a restaurant with an empty stomach and looked at the menu. Six items on the whole menu, they most be specialists. I chose four from the six. Not really fond of prawns, but three from the six are prawn. The best one was Cau Lac, another noodle dish but a bit different from the omnipresent Pho Bo (Beef Noodles) which is eaten all day and night, all over Viet Nam.
After tucking that lot away, I went in search of the local brew. Again the beer is quite varied with different brands in different towns (well at least different labels!) After sampling a beer, I spotted a dart board in the corner. Time to test out the old throwing skills. Yep, as I suspected I was awful. But at least I mostly hit the dart board. I thought that a bit of practice I would get better, but after ten minutes that theory was disproved. I could hit the dart board, but that was about my overall control of these little flying javelins. Back to pool, at least I can play that! I met an Aussie, who fancied a game. After a while a few others joined in a little tournament. With the clear winner some Vietnamese pool wizard. I think he played a lot of billiards, which is popular here. I've seen a few tables without pockets. So either billiards, or Irish pool :) He was irratingly good, potting the black of four cushions. Must of been cheating somehow!
The next day I met up again with the Aussie (I'm awful rembering names, so I call him Bruce). Chatted with him about being in India, he was saying about staying in villages learning five languages. A bit different from my experience, but interesting to chat with. In Hoi An everything closes at 23:00, I was going to head off and get some kip as up early for the bus the next day. But everybody was heading off to an out of town bar which kept late hours (and variable locations!) so I was somewhat easily persuaded to come along. Late night drinking and early morning buses is the not the best mixture it most be admitted, but a good night nonetheless. Only four hours to Hue, so I just zoned out on the bus the next day.
After tucking that lot away, I went in search of the local brew. Again the beer is quite varied with different brands in different towns (well at least different labels!) After sampling a beer, I spotted a dart board in the corner. Time to test out the old throwing skills. Yep, as I suspected I was awful. But at least I mostly hit the dart board. I thought that a bit of practice I would get better, but after ten minutes that theory was disproved. I could hit the dart board, but that was about my overall control of these little flying javelins. Back to pool, at least I can play that! I met an Aussie, who fancied a game. After a while a few others joined in a little tournament. With the clear winner some Vietnamese pool wizard. I think he played a lot of billiards, which is popular here. I've seen a few tables without pockets. So either billiards, or Irish pool :) He was irratingly good, potting the black of four cushions. Must of been cheating somehow!
The next day I met up again with the Aussie (I'm awful rembering names, so I call him Bruce). Chatted with him about being in India, he was saying about staying in villages learning five languages. A bit different from my experience, but interesting to chat with. In Hoi An everything closes at 23:00, I was going to head off and get some kip as up early for the bus the next day. But everybody was heading off to an out of town bar which kept late hours (and variable locations!) so I was somewhat easily persuaded to come along. Late night drinking and early morning buses is the not the best mixture it most be admitted, but a good night nonetheless. Only four hours to Hue, so I just zoned out on the bus the next day.
Wednesday, December 28, 2005
Nha Trang
Umm, why are we stopping the bus. Aaah, because we are about to drive through a lake, which no doubt was once a road. So after bumbling up and down the narrow bus to drag my trusty backpack to my seat at the back of the bus (all the cool kids sit up the back!). At least I had the foresight to put on the raincover. Unfortunately for me, the rain cover managed to do little more than collect the water on the inside to ensure a soaking wet bag. Hmmm, I'll find out later how much stuff is ruined.
Anyway wet bags inside the bus (now why didn't we do that before driving through the other big puddles??) and onwards through the lake. A quick view out the window confirmed my suspicion that I am driving through the sea. A more worrying sight upahead is a torrent of water rushing along beside the road. There lies a half overturned truck, and the remnants of a shack(or house?). We drive on creating waves leaving motorbikes struggling in our wake. On past a small boat, picking people up. Apparently the rains end in November in Viet Nam, unfortunately nobody told the rain gods this year.
Finally we make it! Hurrah, found once of the best value hotels in my travels, only 5$ for a really good room, with cable TV, fridge, bath and no big insects. But the rain continued. I was on the last bus in for the next few days. Not exactly ideal sight seeing weather. The beach was pretty trashed, I'd seen pictures and it looked quite nice. But now it was just covered in crap, mostly driftwood, which was slowly been scavenged off by locals packing it on the back of their ubiquitous motorbikes.
One day (okay part of the day) it did stop raining and after being cooped up I set off for a long walk in this direction (points finger randomly). It's always interesting getting out the centre of the tourist hotspots, as people reactions are quite different. After walking for an hour I stopped off at a small cafe, trying to decided whether the people were suprised, happy or horrified at the sight of a strange foreign guy. I got some pumpkin soup, leafy greens, pork rice, beansprouts, noodles & tea. All for less than a dollar (Although thats still FIFTEEN THOUSAND dong!)
I continued my wandering along, ended up getting stuck in a cul-de-sac. One kid, glanced up at me and looked terrified, like he was about to burst into tears. Memo to self, have a shave. After getting completely and utterly lost I just jumped on a motorbike and get driven home. Nice and easy! Although most motorbike taxi drivers are annoying still thankful when you have no idea where you are.
So after sitting out the rain in Nha Trang it was back on with the road show. Well until the night bus to Hoi An turned round after an hour and came back. Yipee! Try again next night. Obviously a lot of people were unhappy at this turn of events. However I later heard that the night bus the previous day has been stuck for 42 hours, hehe. Not so bad then. Basically the road had subsided down 5m for about 20m in length. The bus had to wait until the road fixers came and sorted it out.
The next day I made it smoothly to Hoi An. The tailor capital of Viet Nam, suit you Sir!
Anyway wet bags inside the bus (now why didn't we do that before driving through the other big puddles??) and onwards through the lake. A quick view out the window confirmed my suspicion that I am driving through the sea. A more worrying sight upahead is a torrent of water rushing along beside the road. There lies a half overturned truck, and the remnants of a shack(or house?). We drive on creating waves leaving motorbikes struggling in our wake. On past a small boat, picking people up. Apparently the rains end in November in Viet Nam, unfortunately nobody told the rain gods this year.
Finally we make it! Hurrah, found once of the best value hotels in my travels, only 5$ for a really good room, with cable TV, fridge, bath and no big insects. But the rain continued. I was on the last bus in for the next few days. Not exactly ideal sight seeing weather. The beach was pretty trashed, I'd seen pictures and it looked quite nice. But now it was just covered in crap, mostly driftwood, which was slowly been scavenged off by locals packing it on the back of their ubiquitous motorbikes.
One day (okay part of the day) it did stop raining and after being cooped up I set off for a long walk in this direction (points finger randomly). It's always interesting getting out the centre of the tourist hotspots, as people reactions are quite different. After walking for an hour I stopped off at a small cafe, trying to decided whether the people were suprised, happy or horrified at the sight of a strange foreign guy. I got some pumpkin soup, leafy greens, pork rice, beansprouts, noodles & tea. All for less than a dollar (Although thats still FIFTEEN THOUSAND dong!)
I continued my wandering along, ended up getting stuck in a cul-de-sac. One kid, glanced up at me and looked terrified, like he was about to burst into tears. Memo to self, have a shave. After getting completely and utterly lost I just jumped on a motorbike and get driven home. Nice and easy! Although most motorbike taxi drivers are annoying still thankful when you have no idea where you are.
So after sitting out the rain in Nha Trang it was back on with the road show. Well until the night bus to Hoi An turned round after an hour and came back. Yipee! Try again next night. Obviously a lot of people were unhappy at this turn of events. However I later heard that the night bus the previous day has been stuck for 42 hours, hehe. Not so bad then. Basically the road had subsided down 5m for about 20m in length. The bus had to wait until the road fixers came and sorted it out.
The next day I made it smoothly to Hoi An. The tailor capital of Viet Nam, suit you Sir!
Dalat
It was planned with military precision, as you will no doubt have assumed. As with all my travel plans, I had throughly researched how to get the 460 odd miles from sunny Saigon to Dalat and pre-purchased the ticket which would guarantee my hassle free journey.
Naturally, the Vietnamese had other plans. Having turned up a good 15 minutes early for my bus as instructed, I am told that it was the main office I was supposed to be at, not the place I bought my ticket. Not a major problem, as the main office was but a mere 2 mins brisk walk down the road, and I arrived there with ample time to spare. Upon handing over my ticket for the 7:30 bus (I knew it was 7:30 for 2 cunning reasons. 1: I was told the bus left at 7:30 when I bought the ticket, and 2: 7:30 was the time printed on the ticket.) So, anyhow, I had over the ticket and after a brief flurry of Vietnamese (not from me I hasten to add) I'm told that the bus doesn't leave till 8:00.
Ahh well, time to chill out on the plastic chairs for 30 minutes. An hour later, just around the time I was debating if beanbags would be a comfy and funky-alternative to uncomfortable plastic chairs, I was led away to be executed. No wait ... led away to another tourist agency and was herded right up the back of the bus with my uber-large, yet essential, backpack. As soon as I sat down I was told this was the wrong bus and dumped back on the pavement for another 30 minutes, before being put squeezed into a shuttle bus, un-squeezed back out of it and re-herded back onto the original bus.
Finally, we were on out way. I peered out of the steamed up windows watching the scenery fly past as we ambled along at walking pace. 5 minutes later I conclude that everywhere in Saigon looks pretty much the same before realising we've gone round in a circle and are back outside the tourist agency again.
"So are you here for the flower festival?" said the Vietnamese guy on the bus.
"Huh?". Apparently there was a big flower festival on in Dalat, as I found out when I arrived with poster and flags everywhere. A few hotels were full. And being notoriously bad at reading maps, I couldn't figure out how to get to a hotel in my guidebook. Of course, by that time it was dark, as the bus journey was chaotic.
More waiting about, then we finally got on our way. For about 10km. Then we sat on the edge of Saigon, while they shuttled more people from the town onto the bus. 3 hours later, we finally left Saigon!
So by the time I got to Dalat it was dark. I got a motorbike to take me to a hotel, he claimed it was very far, I thought it was near, but couldn't work out where I was on the map. He drove down a straight road, down a 180 on the roundabout and back. I assume this was to make it seem far away! Not very convicing. That hotel was full but I found another closeby.
Lots and lots of rain. Everthing is damp and soggy. And quite cold up here. I bought a fleece to keep me warm, then I walked outside just as I realised a fleece is a really stupid thing to wear in the rain, it turns into a sponge! Strangely enough it's got a small NFL logo, not exactly what you expect to pick up in Vietnam.
I went for a walk down to the festival site. Lots of small shops. I had what I thought was a cheese & ham toastie, but it turned out to be odd. It wasn't melted cheese on the gridle, but cake mixture. Odd. More like ham cake.
Another night I went back down to the festival and saw some traditional dancing around. Looked like a hilltribe judging by their clothes. They sang, danced to some music. Shaking their spears at the fire. Unfortunately this was done on a raised platform and you had to stand below on the steps, while the security made sure nobody was getting a good view! I saw a security guy pointed and talking at somebody, at first I thought he was tapping his baton on his boots, because I heard a clicking noise, but he the baton was a stun-gun which he was menancingly zapping. Not to be messed with! Later on I saw a van of more security/army guys pull up, what intrigued me was the letters on the side of the van looked Russian. Acutally when I arrived in Vietnam, I was slightly suprised to discover they use the Latin alphabet, albeit with some diacratics, as Thailand, Laos & Cambodia all use their own squigly scripts.
After that I head to the pub in Dalat. There only seems to be one pub in Dalat, so not much choice. The bar owner is a whizz at connect four! But I managed to beat him a couple of times using the little known Diemer-Duhm gambit. However once he had countered this, I couldn't even beat him by cheating, not so subtlely throwing in two bits at once! Vietnam is a bit like Laos, everybody is either going North or South, stopping along the same points. I chatted to a few people in there, and unsuprisingly bumped into them again the next night. Helped sharpen my pool skills.
I had considered heading through the highlands, but eventually decided to head back down to the coast at Nha Trang hoping to escape the rain. It certainly didn't work out that way though.
Naturally, the Vietnamese had other plans. Having turned up a good 15 minutes early for my bus as instructed, I am told that it was the main office I was supposed to be at, not the place I bought my ticket. Not a major problem, as the main office was but a mere 2 mins brisk walk down the road, and I arrived there with ample time to spare. Upon handing over my ticket for the 7:30 bus (I knew it was 7:30 for 2 cunning reasons. 1: I was told the bus left at 7:30 when I bought the ticket, and 2: 7:30 was the time printed on the ticket.) So, anyhow, I had over the ticket and after a brief flurry of Vietnamese (not from me I hasten to add) I'm told that the bus doesn't leave till 8:00.
Ahh well, time to chill out on the plastic chairs for 30 minutes. An hour later, just around the time I was debating if beanbags would be a comfy and funky-alternative to uncomfortable plastic chairs, I was led away to be executed. No wait ... led away to another tourist agency and was herded right up the back of the bus with my uber-large, yet essential, backpack. As soon as I sat down I was told this was the wrong bus and dumped back on the pavement for another 30 minutes, before being put squeezed into a shuttle bus, un-squeezed back out of it and re-herded back onto the original bus.
Finally, we were on out way. I peered out of the steamed up windows watching the scenery fly past as we ambled along at walking pace. 5 minutes later I conclude that everywhere in Saigon looks pretty much the same before realising we've gone round in a circle and are back outside the tourist agency again.
"So are you here for the flower festival?" said the Vietnamese guy on the bus.
"Huh?". Apparently there was a big flower festival on in Dalat, as I found out when I arrived with poster and flags everywhere. A few hotels were full. And being notoriously bad at reading maps, I couldn't figure out how to get to a hotel in my guidebook. Of course, by that time it was dark, as the bus journey was chaotic.
More waiting about, then we finally got on our way. For about 10km. Then we sat on the edge of Saigon, while they shuttled more people from the town onto the bus. 3 hours later, we finally left Saigon!
So by the time I got to Dalat it was dark. I got a motorbike to take me to a hotel, he claimed it was very far, I thought it was near, but couldn't work out where I was on the map. He drove down a straight road, down a 180 on the roundabout and back. I assume this was to make it seem far away! Not very convicing. That hotel was full but I found another closeby.
Lots and lots of rain. Everthing is damp and soggy. And quite cold up here. I bought a fleece to keep me warm, then I walked outside just as I realised a fleece is a really stupid thing to wear in the rain, it turns into a sponge! Strangely enough it's got a small NFL logo, not exactly what you expect to pick up in Vietnam.
I went for a walk down to the festival site. Lots of small shops. I had what I thought was a cheese & ham toastie, but it turned out to be odd. It wasn't melted cheese on the gridle, but cake mixture. Odd. More like ham cake.
Another night I went back down to the festival and saw some traditional dancing around. Looked like a hilltribe judging by their clothes. They sang, danced to some music. Shaking their spears at the fire. Unfortunately this was done on a raised platform and you had to stand below on the steps, while the security made sure nobody was getting a good view! I saw a security guy pointed and talking at somebody, at first I thought he was tapping his baton on his boots, because I heard a clicking noise, but he the baton was a stun-gun which he was menancingly zapping. Not to be messed with! Later on I saw a van of more security/army guys pull up, what intrigued me was the letters on the side of the van looked Russian. Acutally when I arrived in Vietnam, I was slightly suprised to discover they use the Latin alphabet, albeit with some diacratics, as Thailand, Laos & Cambodia all use their own squigly scripts.
After that I head to the pub in Dalat. There only seems to be one pub in Dalat, so not much choice. The bar owner is a whizz at connect four! But I managed to beat him a couple of times using the little known Diemer-Duhm gambit. However once he had countered this, I couldn't even beat him by cheating, not so subtlely throwing in two bits at once! Vietnam is a bit like Laos, everybody is either going North or South, stopping along the same points. I chatted to a few people in there, and unsuprisingly bumped into them again the next night. Helped sharpen my pool skills.
I had considered heading through the highlands, but eventually decided to head back down to the coast at Nha Trang hoping to escape the rain. It certainly didn't work out that way though.
Monday, December 12, 2005
Saigon
I arrived in Saigon and found a cheap place to stay, above an art shop, renting out small rooms for 3$. Complete with a big flying bug zooming about my room. I had managed to swat it outside but now he's back. Staying in the main travellers area, full of the usual travel agents, internet cafes and restaurants. I went for a walk about, getting lost as usual. Saigon is a large, spread out busy city. 95% of the traffic seems to consist of manic motorbike drivers, using their horn incessantly. Some areas of Saigon are quite posh, with fancy restaurants and designer clothe shops. Also prevalent are some large shopping malls, where they have embraced Christmas fever. Christmas tunes, such as Rudolph the Red-nosed Reindeer, tinkled through the sound system, except the singing is in Vietnamese, kinda of like Name that Tune. Outside Santas and Christmas trees adorn the pavements (I almost said sidewalks? Turning American!)
Vietnam acutally had the largest number of Catholics in Asia (excluding the Philippines) with around 10% of the 78 million population.
While wandering around I came across the Ho Chi Minh City Musuem. Saigon had actually been renamed Ho Chi Minh City, after the leader who led the Viet Minh forces to defeat the French after WWII and make Vietnam independent. However the locals still call it Saigon. I went in for a look about, it talks about the history of the country, and exhibits from the American war (or the Vietnam war, depending on your point of view). Also outside a few old aircraft and a helicopter. After a nosy around there, it was time for a spot of lunch. I picked up a roll from a nearby bakery. Seems to be a tendency to throw whatever you can into a sandwich. This one had some not very good pork, a sausage and some salad
with relish, and something approximating pate.
Some of the streets are lined with Vietnam flags, usually alternated with the hammer & sickle flag for a sea of red. In the streets, people wear these point Oriental hats to keep the sun off. Also a lot of people with face masks against the traffic fumes!
The next day I went along to the Emporer of Jade Pagoda. A fancy Chinese temple with large statues of guys with giants moustaches! Outside a few turtles were being released/dropped into the pond. Maybe it was an auspicous day.
Next stop was the zoo/botanical gardens. Not the best zoo, but a welcome escape from the motorbike and their beeping and tooting. After that I took a stroll down the Notre Dam Cathedral, inside a service was going on, so I only had a brief glimpse at the interior, before getting gently shooed away. Come in or get out, no hanging around.
Back closer to the guesthouse, I put my bartering skills to the test for a couple of books. It went like this:
"How much for these two?"
"$10"
"No, $5"
"Okay, $9"
"No, $5"
"No, no you say $6, when I say $9"
"No, $5"
"Okay, $8"
"No, $5" I walk away.
"Wait, okay 100,000 dong."
Tries to mentally divide by 15,000
"No, $5"
"okay, okay 90,000 dong is $5"
"No it's not, it should be....erm....75,000?"
"80,000"
So I got my two books for around $5, although when I looked at them they have the orignal cover, but are clearly just photocopies!
I went off for some dinner, decide to get away from the tourist cafes. I found a little cafe full of boisterous old men, plastic tables littered with empty beer bottles, stray dogs nervously snatching scraps off the floor before skittering away. I went in and suprisingly they brought out an English menu. First thing was steak and chips, not exactly traditional Vietanamese food! Also everything on the English menu was more expensive. I pointed at something on the Vietnamese menu, costing about a pound. I'll have that I confidently declared. Got some funny looks, and the staff slightly relucantly agreed. I'm sure they would of preferred if I'd spent more money on the steak and chips!
Now some old women came round and tried to sell various little bits of food, peanuts, something wrapped in seaweed. As I didn't know what I was getting I just smiled and said No. But smiling seems to be taken as I really do want to buy something. Just out of interest I continued to smile and say No (maybe the don't understand no) while they go through every item they have to sell, pointing at it. Eventually they exhausted all items and got the idea and left. Then my meal turned up. The trouble with ordering by pointing at random things if your likely to end up with a big plates snails. Which is what I got. You are supposed to suck them out of their shells, but I didn't have much look. Then somebody brought over a paperclip to eek them out, but still not much luck. Then they gave me a bottle opener to smash them open! A few locals tried to show me how to slurp them out. I seemed to spend most of my time sitting there making snail-sucking noises. Not much meat in them anyway. Still the herb butter sauce was actually quite nice, and the beer very cheap (30p, at least half of what the tourist cafes charge). I checked the receipt to see that the item did match what I had picked, it wasn't just the staff having a laugh. I left still rather hungry, but the next day I had a full English breakfast costing more than my room! It's good to try some new food, but also some familar food once in a while is nice.
Up early to catch the bus to Dalat, shouldn't of bothered it took another 3 hours to eventually leave Saigon...
Vietnam acutally had the largest number of Catholics in Asia (excluding the Philippines) with around 10% of the 78 million population.
While wandering around I came across the Ho Chi Minh City Musuem. Saigon had actually been renamed Ho Chi Minh City, after the leader who led the Viet Minh forces to defeat the French after WWII and make Vietnam independent. However the locals still call it Saigon. I went in for a look about, it talks about the history of the country, and exhibits from the American war (or the Vietnam war, depending on your point of view). Also outside a few old aircraft and a helicopter. After a nosy around there, it was time for a spot of lunch. I picked up a roll from a nearby bakery. Seems to be a tendency to throw whatever you can into a sandwich. This one had some not very good pork, a sausage and some salad
with relish, and something approximating pate.
Some of the streets are lined with Vietnam flags, usually alternated with the hammer & sickle flag for a sea of red. In the streets, people wear these point Oriental hats to keep the sun off. Also a lot of people with face masks against the traffic fumes!
The next day I went along to the Emporer of Jade Pagoda. A fancy Chinese temple with large statues of guys with giants moustaches! Outside a few turtles were being released/dropped into the pond. Maybe it was an auspicous day.
Next stop was the zoo/botanical gardens. Not the best zoo, but a welcome escape from the motorbike and their beeping and tooting. After that I took a stroll down the Notre Dam Cathedral, inside a service was going on, so I only had a brief glimpse at the interior, before getting gently shooed away. Come in or get out, no hanging around.
Back closer to the guesthouse, I put my bartering skills to the test for a couple of books. It went like this:
"How much for these two?"
"$10"
"No, $5"
"Okay, $9"
"No, $5"
"No, no you say $6, when I say $9"
"No, $5"
"Okay, $8"
"No, $5" I walk away.
"Wait, okay 100,000 dong."
Tries to mentally divide by 15,000
"No, $5"
"okay, okay 90,000 dong is $5"
"No it's not, it should be....erm....75,000?"
"80,000"
So I got my two books for around $5, although when I looked at them they have the orignal cover, but are clearly just photocopies!
I went off for some dinner, decide to get away from the tourist cafes. I found a little cafe full of boisterous old men, plastic tables littered with empty beer bottles, stray dogs nervously snatching scraps off the floor before skittering away. I went in and suprisingly they brought out an English menu. First thing was steak and chips, not exactly traditional Vietanamese food! Also everything on the English menu was more expensive. I pointed at something on the Vietnamese menu, costing about a pound. I'll have that I confidently declared. Got some funny looks, and the staff slightly relucantly agreed. I'm sure they would of preferred if I'd spent more money on the steak and chips!
Now some old women came round and tried to sell various little bits of food, peanuts, something wrapped in seaweed. As I didn't know what I was getting I just smiled and said No. But smiling seems to be taken as I really do want to buy something. Just out of interest I continued to smile and say No (maybe the don't understand no) while they go through every item they have to sell, pointing at it. Eventually they exhausted all items and got the idea and left. Then my meal turned up. The trouble with ordering by pointing at random things if your likely to end up with a big plates snails. Which is what I got. You are supposed to suck them out of their shells, but I didn't have much look. Then somebody brought over a paperclip to eek them out, but still not much luck. Then they gave me a bottle opener to smash them open! A few locals tried to show me how to slurp them out. I seemed to spend most of my time sitting there making snail-sucking noises. Not much meat in them anyway. Still the herb butter sauce was actually quite nice, and the beer very cheap (30p, at least half of what the tourist cafes charge). I checked the receipt to see that the item did match what I had picked, it wasn't just the staff having a laugh. I left still rather hungry, but the next day I had a full English breakfast costing more than my room! It's good to try some new food, but also some familar food once in a while is nice.
Up early to catch the bus to Dalat, shouldn't of bothered it took another 3 hours to eventually leave Saigon...
Friday, December 09, 2005
Phnom Penh
At Phnom Penh, I stood on the rooftop of the hotel watching a large jeep trying to reverse over a big mound of rubbish. After a few goes it succeeded and escape it's parking spot on the pavement, where it had been blocked in by another car. At least these people need jeeps for their cities and roads, or should that be dirt tracks. Lots of riverside restaurants and pubs abound along the Tonle Sap river, although the Khmer food served here seems for the most part to be the same as usual Thai food. Of course, you can still get all sort of other food such as burgers, pasta, salads. I even found a cheap Malaysian restuarant for a bit of Tom Yam.
Phnom Penh had a bit of a "wild west" reputation. Seems to attract a few oddballs anyway! I was talking to a guy who had been held up by two gunmen with rifles. They took his phone, while his driver ran away. Not quite sure if the driver was involved. Then he had to go through the hassle with the police who demanded $20 to give him the documents he needed for his insurance claim.
A book I was reading about Cambodia, mentions a few interesting facts like how nobody seems to bother that a policeman on a $16 wage is driving around in a $50,000 car! Another incident that sticks in my mind from the book, was when a vice-deputy high up goverment guy, was annoyed after his plane was delayed. He motioned his driver to go to the boot where he took his AK47 and started shooting the passenger plane. Only minor damage was recorded. Later he said it was dark and couldn't see where he was shooting, but if these people worked for him the would all by dead. A policeman confirmed that it was illegal to bring weapons into an airfield and shoot planes, but no action was to be taken against him!
Flicking through the Phnom Penh post newspaper, I came across the police reports, where arrest are made. Lots of people getting "chopped" on the head with an axe (alway three times!) or being shot with AK47. Although the most unusual one was the report of a Cambodian man who had been taken to hospital with an arrow in his chest. He had been hunting rats with a crossbow at 04:20am when he accidentaly discharged the arrow into himself! Sounds like a Darwin award nominee.
One day I went along to Toul Sleng Musuem. A horrific reminder of the attrocities commited by the Khmer Rouge. In 197 Pol Pot's men took over this school and turned into Security Prison 21 (S-21). For the next three years, this would be used as interogation centre. Afterwards the people were taken to Cheoung Ek (the Killing Fields) and executed, often battered to death to save bullets. The school rooms on the ground floor were divided into individual cells barely big enough to lie down. Other rooms are bare except for a steel bed, with restraints and rusty tools. On the walls old grimy black and white photos depict the people strapped to the beds, black pools of blood lying below their emanicapated bodies.
In other rooms vast galleries consisting of mugshots of all the prisoner. Again the Khmer Rouge had a systematic methodology for execution. All prisoner are photographed with their relevant numbers. Unsuprisingly, you can see the fear in the peoples face. When one person was taken, their entire family was also taken. One wall of pictures shows just kids. Then they must abide by the regulations written on the sign:
1. You must answer accordingly to my question - Don't turn them away.
2. Don't try to hide the facts by making pretexts this and that. You are strictly prohibited to contest me.
3. Don't be a fool for you are a chap who dare to thwart the revolution.
4. You must immediately answer my questions without wasting time to reflect.
5. Don't tell me about your immoralities or the essence of the revolution.
6. While getting lashes or eletrification you must not cry at all.
7. Do nothing, sit still and wait for my orders. If there is not order, keep quiet. When I ask you to do something, you must do it right away without protesting.
8. Don't make pretext about Kampuchea Krom in order to hide your secret or traitor.
9. If you don't follow the above rules, you shall get many lashes of electric wire.
10. If you disobey any point of my regulations you shall get either ten lashes or five shocks of electric discharge.
In another room, paintings depicting more horrors line the wall. People getting their finger snipped off, and soldiers throwing babies throw the air onto their bayonets.
Over three years an estimated 14,000-20,000 people went into S-21. There was 7 survivors.
Phnom Penh had a bit of a "wild west" reputation. Seems to attract a few oddballs anyway! I was talking to a guy who had been held up by two gunmen with rifles. They took his phone, while his driver ran away. Not quite sure if the driver was involved. Then he had to go through the hassle with the police who demanded $20 to give him the documents he needed for his insurance claim.
A book I was reading about Cambodia, mentions a few interesting facts like how nobody seems to bother that a policeman on a $16 wage is driving around in a $50,000 car! Another incident that sticks in my mind from the book, was when a vice-deputy high up goverment guy, was annoyed after his plane was delayed. He motioned his driver to go to the boot where he took his AK47 and started shooting the passenger plane. Only minor damage was recorded. Later he said it was dark and couldn't see where he was shooting, but if these people worked for him the would all by dead. A policeman confirmed that it was illegal to bring weapons into an airfield and shoot planes, but no action was to be taken against him!
Flicking through the Phnom Penh post newspaper, I came across the police reports, where arrest are made. Lots of people getting "chopped" on the head with an axe (alway three times!) or being shot with AK47. Although the most unusual one was the report of a Cambodian man who had been taken to hospital with an arrow in his chest. He had been hunting rats with a crossbow at 04:20am when he accidentaly discharged the arrow into himself! Sounds like a Darwin award nominee.
One day I went along to Toul Sleng Musuem. A horrific reminder of the attrocities commited by the Khmer Rouge. In 197 Pol Pot's men took over this school and turned into Security Prison 21 (S-21). For the next three years, this would be used as interogation centre. Afterwards the people were taken to Cheoung Ek (the Killing Fields) and executed, often battered to death to save bullets. The school rooms on the ground floor were divided into individual cells barely big enough to lie down. Other rooms are bare except for a steel bed, with restraints and rusty tools. On the walls old grimy black and white photos depict the people strapped to the beds, black pools of blood lying below their emanicapated bodies.
In other rooms vast galleries consisting of mugshots of all the prisoner. Again the Khmer Rouge had a systematic methodology for execution. All prisoner are photographed with their relevant numbers. Unsuprisingly, you can see the fear in the peoples face. When one person was taken, their entire family was also taken. One wall of pictures shows just kids. Then they must abide by the regulations written on the sign:
1. You must answer accordingly to my question - Don't turn them away.
2. Don't try to hide the facts by making pretexts this and that. You are strictly prohibited to contest me.
3. Don't be a fool for you are a chap who dare to thwart the revolution.
4. You must immediately answer my questions without wasting time to reflect.
5. Don't tell me about your immoralities or the essence of the revolution.
6. While getting lashes or eletrification you must not cry at all.
7. Do nothing, sit still and wait for my orders. If there is not order, keep quiet. When I ask you to do something, you must do it right away without protesting.
8. Don't make pretext about Kampuchea Krom in order to hide your secret or traitor.
9. If you don't follow the above rules, you shall get many lashes of electric wire.
10. If you disobey any point of my regulations you shall get either ten lashes or five shocks of electric discharge.
In another room, paintings depicting more horrors line the wall. People getting their finger snipped off, and soldiers throwing babies throw the air onto their bayonets.
Over three years an estimated 14,000-20,000 people went into S-21. There was 7 survivors.
Wednesday, December 07, 2005
Seim Reap
Siem Reap
The temples at Angkor were built between the 9th & 13th century. At this time the Angkor empire covered a vast area, north to China and all the way west to the Bay of Bengal. At it's height over a million people are estimated to live in Angkor. However only the Gods were deemed fit to live in stone, so only the temples remain, the wooden houses & buildings long succumbed to the jungle. The temple were "discovered" by Henri Mouhot around 1860. From 1908, a French organisation has made the effort to reclaim the temples from the jungle and preserve them. The trees and plants slowly rip apart the stones, this is most in evidence at Ta Prom.
Ta Prom, a 12th century buddhist temple, has been left in the same state as it was when discovered. So trees sprout from the top of walls and inbetween the stones. Some areas are sectioned off, as they may collapse, bricks lay strewn about. Carvings are everywhere, in particular I liked a face nearly hidden by tree roots, smiling out at you.
Inside the fortified city of Angkor Thom, at the centre lies the Bayon. A temple with more than 200 strangely smiling faces staring down at you. Very odd!
The most famous temple though is Angkor Wat, the nearest temple to town. Surrounded by a huge moat, it sits on an island and is accessible across a long causeway. Then another wall surrounds the edge of the island. Outside the main temple is an 800m long series of baf reliefs. The central temple rises three storeys and 55m, so you get a good view!
Although one thing is, that to get up you have to climb some steep stairs. When you go down they suddenly look very steep! So, you have lots of people slowly crawling down from the top. I cycled around the temple a couple of days. By the third day I was pretty much 'templed out' but took a tuk-tuk out to see Angkor Wat for sunset one final time.
The next day it was off to the captial, Phnom Penh.
The temples at Angkor were built between the 9th & 13th century. At this time the Angkor empire covered a vast area, north to China and all the way west to the Bay of Bengal. At it's height over a million people are estimated to live in Angkor. However only the Gods were deemed fit to live in stone, so only the temples remain, the wooden houses & buildings long succumbed to the jungle. The temple were "discovered" by Henri Mouhot around 1860. From 1908, a French organisation has made the effort to reclaim the temples from the jungle and preserve them. The trees and plants slowly rip apart the stones, this is most in evidence at Ta Prom.
Ta Prom, a 12th century buddhist temple, has been left in the same state as it was when discovered. So trees sprout from the top of walls and inbetween the stones. Some areas are sectioned off, as they may collapse, bricks lay strewn about. Carvings are everywhere, in particular I liked a face nearly hidden by tree roots, smiling out at you.
Inside the fortified city of Angkor Thom, at the centre lies the Bayon. A temple with more than 200 strangely smiling faces staring down at you. Very odd!
The most famous temple though is Angkor Wat, the nearest temple to town. Surrounded by a huge moat, it sits on an island and is accessible across a long causeway. Then another wall surrounds the edge of the island. Outside the main temple is an 800m long series of baf reliefs. The central temple rises three storeys and 55m, so you get a good view!
Although one thing is, that to get up you have to climb some steep stairs. When you go down they suddenly look very steep! So, you have lots of people slowly crawling down from the top. I cycled around the temple a couple of days. By the third day I was pretty much 'templed out' but took a tuk-tuk out to see Angkor Wat for sunset one final time.
The next day it was off to the captial, Phnom Penh.
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